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  1. #1
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    Post Can't fix it? Get out the dremel and get goin!

    So my SLT has a history of repairs becoming much more difficult than they really should be. When I first got the ski, I purchased it on a double trailer with a second ski that I used for parts. The first challenge was getting the carbs rebuilt. These carbs must've sat for a while and probably had some ethanol fuel related issues because they were full of rust. So, my good friend ghostinstallations and I went to town on the carbs and rebuilt them using parts from both sets of carbs and a bit of dremel action. Once I did the triple outlet pump upgrade and set the carbs to factory settings the ski ran great...

    The only pic I have of the original carb rebuild:
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    Her first time out on Seneca Lake with my SLH:
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    Up until July 4th when I was taking a friend out for her first ride on a jet ski. We were out doing donuts and riding it hard as usual. Well, the motor instantly died mid-donut and would not restart. Upon teardown I found that there was rust on the crank and that the second bearing in from the front was loose and shrapnel had peened the spark plug gap shut and locked the bearing up. Other bearings had issues and the crank was toast. I suspect the previous owner's winterization technique wasn't so great. So, I considered buying a new engine for the ski or just getting a crank but realistically around here a running SLT isn't worth a whole lot anymore. But, it's such a fun ski and a great one to let family and friends take out that I wasn't quite ready to let it go. So I bought a parts ski with the goal of dropping the motor in my SLT and then selling the parts and hull to end up with a free/near-free engine. The parts ski was a 94 SL that had zero compression in the MAG cylinder. Upon teardown I found that the front crank seal was toast so I figured I'd go through and replace all the crank seals and clean the motor out good. Except, I couldn't get the PTO coupler loose. Even with heat and a lot of leverage it wouldn't budge... So with a little help from ghostinstallations we were able to get that sucker off no problem...

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    More pics to come as the rebuild progresses. I'm hoping that next weekend I'll be able to get the motor fully rebuilt ready to go back in and then next week I'll be able to drop the motor back in and get the ski back up and running!


  2. #2
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    Well I got the motor rebuilt Friday night and Saturday morning and dropped it back in Sunday. Lake was rough so I didn't try to fire it up until yesterday night. New motor fired right up and all seemed well except I've got a water leak at the exhaust manifold to cylinders. I removed the manifold, recleaned the mating surfaces again and tightened the bolts back down and I've got the same issue. With the pop-off/t-stat removed the issue goes away. I'm wondering if one of them was stuck or not properly seated.

    Any thoughts on the water leak?

    I removed the t-stat/pop-off for the first ride so I could get the motor warmed up and see what it did. It seems to run well, I have it running on the rich side now (better safe than sorry) and wide open is turning around 6050-6100rpm. I have not made a long sustained wide open run in it yet. I figured I would take it easy on it and vary the RPM's for the initial break in and tank of fuel.

    After warmup and burning off the assembly oil I checked compression and it is 124 Mag, 125 Cen, 125 Pto. Not bad!

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Did you install the exhaust manifold BEFORE tightening down the jugs to the crank case? This ensures the proper alignment between the jugs and the exhaust manifold. I did mine without a gasket and with the base nuts on the jugs just spun on, not tight at all.....

  4. #4
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    Yup, I installed the jugs, then installed the exhaust manifold and snugged the bolts and once that was done I torqued down the jugs to the case.

    When I did this, I had all of the gaskets in-place. Should I have done this without gaskets on the manifold and then removed/reinstalled the manifold with gaskets?

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Don't know if it must be done that way, I just did it that way cause it made sense to me to align metal to metal......

    New exhaust gaskets? You could try copper spray....?

  6. #6
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    I used all new Cometic gaskets and a Winderosa set of seals for the crank. So, all of the exhaust gaskets were brand new.

    I thought about using copper spray as well but thought I should be fine with just the new gaskets. Maybe not...

  7. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    I have never had to use spray to get new gaskets to work, only on re-installed gaskets. Assembling without the gaskets also gives you a visual that the jugs are indeed lined up with the manifold...

  8. #8
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    That's a good idea. Perhaps it would be worth pulling the pipe and manifold again and seeing how it lines up without gaskets. It wouldn't be too difficult to loosen and re-tighten the cylinder bases if I need to so I could realign the cylinders if needed.

  9. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    May as well give it a try......

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