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  1. #1

    Troubleshooting water in hull

    I have a problem with my MSX 150. I was riding the other day and it started acting sluggish took it in poped the seat and found the hull half full of water.

    When floating it does not appear to leak but hull was not bone dry so hard to be sure. When running in the water leaks substantially from low in the holland coupler is flinging water. When run on the hose no leaks at all.

    I have about 16 hrs on the ski since purchase from a forum member. He redid the thru hull recently so it shouldn't be bad but that looks like the likely problem.

    Are there any other steps I should take to find the problem? If it is the thru hull what parts need to be inspected or replaced so I can get more than 15hrs out of the rebuild?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    After rebuilding the MSX style through-hull bearing carrier, it is important that the carrier be correctly located so the drive shaft alignment is correct. There is enough slop in the bearing carrier mounting bolt holes to allow the carrier to mis-align with the engine half of the spider coupler.

    If the two ends of the MSX engine to drive shaft 'spider' coupler are not well aligned then the driveline can vibrate under load and rapidly degrade the new through-hull bearing and seals.

  3. #3
    Found the time to pull the pump and the rear seal was totally out of the bearing carrier. The lip was torn and half missing spring no where to be found. The perimeter where it fits in the housing doesn't show any damage. Bearing carrier is not out yet so I don't know what the other seals look like. I ordered an oem rebuild kit.

    When removing the shaft can I just stick a broom handle into the coupler or do I need to get a strap wrench to hold it?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I have used the broom handle method, but the stress on the wood was significant, and I did worry about breaking the stick or busting one of the teeth on the MSX spider coupler.

    The chain wrench seems safer, if properly used. There is a special tool Polaris has that fits inside the spider coupler and allows the use of a standard 1/2" drive breaker bar.

    You will need the special driveshaft removal tool for the spline end of the drive shaft. You might need a long breaker bar on the socket when you are ready to unscrew the drive shaft. It can be really tight on there.

    Inspect the MSX driveshaft for wear damage in the area where it passes through the bearing carrier. The shaft surface should not have worn grooves or significant corrosion.

  5. #5
    Have completed the tear down and found the following. Rear seal had worked its way totally out was floating on the shaft lip was partiallt torn off spring gone. Inboard rear seal still in proper position and fully intact. Bearing appears to be in good condition. Large front seal had worked it's way out so that only about 1/16" was still in the bearing carrier. The shaft has normal wear at seal arreas but no sharp grooves under the bearing there are fine scratches that are noticeable when you pass your fingernail over them but no grooves.

    It's not clear to me what caused this to fail at 15 HRs. Should I carefully rebuild it and hope for the best? All input is appreciated.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Slight mis-alignment of the spider coupler halves can cause vibration at the through-hull bearing.

    I had my own MSX through-hull bearing completely shake apart within a couple of hours due to misalignment. The actual bearing race disintegrated from the vibration, yet while riding the machine I noticed only a slight 'hum' at mid-range RPM.

  7. #7
    K447 Thanks for the quick reply. The circumstances of your failure seem to be a bit different from my failure. Do you have any ideas on what happened with mine. How would you proceed in my situation?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, all you can really do is rebuild it again, and check everything for correctness.

    If the drive shaft and through-hull alignment is matched with the engine, then it should behave.

    Was the engine removed and reinstalled?

    Anything else that might affect the driveline?

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