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  1. #1

    2003 4 Tec S/C Cam Position Fault Code P0344/ECU Question

    I have searched the limited posts and the web for that matter about the Fault Code P0344.

    My 2003 GTX 4 Tec S/C has the code P0344. Boat starts and runs fine.

    I have what I consider a strange issue with the P0344 code. I did all the required test per the manual. Pulled the valve cover and the sensor pin is ok, cam gear is ok. I determined the sensor was bad and replaced it. Before I replaced it I would get the CHK ENG light just starting the boat dry. After replacing the sensor no CHK ENG light dry running. So off to the lake. I put the boat in the lake no code but then I make a full throttle run and the CHK ENG light and code P0344 is back. So back home I go to scratch my head more. I redo all the tests and then hook up the water hose and run the boat out of water for a while no code. Back to the lake same results.

    So I decided to do a dynamic test of the CAPS like you would a car. I probe term#2 yellow wire with green tracer at the sensor and as soon as I hooked up the lanyard to power up the system I get 12 volts at the terminal. WTH! I should not have 12 volts here NOT RUNNING, power on? I could understand 12 volts bad sensor but I should have no voltage hear unless the boat is running and at that the voltage shouild be around 1 volt. Out of curiosity, I unhook the connector and I still have 12 volts at term#2. Not good. So I go to the ECU and remove the yellow wire with green tracer from the connector (A34). Recheck the connector terminal at the CAPS no voltage. So there is no short in the wiring harness from the ECU to the CAPS. I go back to the ECU and reconnect the ECU wire connector assy. I then probe down through the connector at the ECU A34 terminal. Hook up the lanyard, 12 VOLTS. Again WTH! Should I have 12 volts at the A34 terminal at the ECU??? I don't think so but I am open for helpful input. Is the ECU bad?
    Last edited by pufferfish; 07-30-2013 at 11:14 AM. Reason: verify CAPS Cam Position Sensor not CPS Crank Position Sensor

  2. #2
    As I expected this issue is a bit complicated so if I may indulge someone to do me favor. Since I do not have another watercraft to test for 12 volts DC at the Cam Position Sensor terminal # 2 yellow wire with green tracer. If anyone has a volt meter and would run this simple test for me I would be most gratefull. Disconnect the connector from the Cam PS, probe the center terminal and connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to that probe. Then ground the negitive lead of the voltmeter. Connect the lanyard to the DESS Post, no need to start he PWC. Just activate the electronics and check to see if you get 12 volts DC at the CamPS connector center terminal #2.

    THANK YOU in advance.
    Last edited by pufferfish; 07-29-2013 at 10:29 AM. Reason: indicate DC voltage

  3. #3

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Quote Originally Posted by pufferfish View Post
    I then probe down through the connector at the ECU A34 terminal. Is the ECU bad?
    if you stuck a voltmeter probe into the connector in the harness, you may have damaged it.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by pufferfish View Post
    I then probe down through the connector at the ECU A34 terminal. Is the ECU bad?
    if you stuck a voltmeter probe into the connector in the harness, you may have damaged it.
    Thank you for your input.

    Let me clarify you should never probe a wire connection using a multi-meter lead, they are just to large. A small paper clip is a convenient and good choice. Yes you can damage a connector or wire doing this.

    I have verified all connections are in good working order on both the ECU and CamPS. My concern is the 12v DC at the CamPS on terminal #2. Everything I have read indicates that terminal # 3 should have 12v DC and continuity between terminals 1 & 2. There should not be statics voltage at terminal # 2. That is why I am trying to verify if 12v Dc is located at terminal # 2 on a working unit. If it is not then I suspect that the ECU has an internal short and will need replaced. I am really wanting to verify this before I throw a $500 used ECU at it that once I buy it I own it. Not to mention another $100 to the dealer to reprogram the ECU and lanyard.
    Last edited by pufferfish; 07-30-2013 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Clarify probing connector

  6. #6
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Where are you located maybe someone has a ECU you could barrow.

  7. #7
    Thank you I am working on that angle. I have been out of PWC's for 12 years and all my old ski buddies are all out to. My family was a Bombardier dealer owner from 1990 to 2001 and Yamaha MC dealer from 1975-2001. I have a very good relationship with the current dealers employees since most were my employees. But the current owner is a bit of a hard a$$ and has a pretty tight rein on them. Unlike when we had our dealership it was hard work but our employees had fun and enjoyed it.

    I am in Kansas. PWC has pretty much hit the wall here and not much activity.

    I bought this ski so my 16 year old could have the experience. In KS you can go to one of the many popular lakes on any given weekend holidays included and you could be 1 of a half dozen PWC riders and a dozen boats. It is just pathetic. Back in the mid to late 1990's you could go to the lake and there would be 100's of PWC on the water along with regular boaters. Of course in those day we would sale 200 units a year. Those were some fun times. Our old dealership was called Jim's Import Cycles.

  8. #8
    This forum is full of knowledge and a great help. But one thing that always annoys me when I come searching for help on a forum is the original poster will ask a question and then never give you any information if the problem was resolved and what resolved the problem.

    WELL! I will not leave you hanging on this post.

    1st off I have resolved the P0344 Cam Sensor Code. I had replaced the faulty Cam Sensor but it appears it was not the correct sensor. I ordered another one and installed it resulting the Fault code not returning.

    As for the answer whether I should have 12 volts DC at the CAPS terminal #2. I have not been able to verify if this is correct. Since replacing the CAPS and the fact the Fault is gone I can only assume that 12 volts DC at the CAPS terminal #2 from the ECU is correct.

    Bottom line when replacing a faulty part double verify that you received the correct part even if it looks like the old part and preforms the exact same task it still may not work correctly.

    Happy Boating!

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