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  1. #1

    Wave Runners are a lot of fun

    Till you blow the motor.

    The oil injector line slipped off (while I was WFO) and fried the middle cylinder.

    So what am I looking cost wise at to re-build a 2003 GP1300r?

    Recommended parts house or vendor

    compression on the dropped cylinder is 45


  2. #2
    Depends on what you will need done and how much money you want to spend. If you just want to fix that one cylinder or do a top end or a complete rebuild? If the ski has alot of hours then you probably have a tired crank and would want to do a complete rebuild.

    How many hours on the ski?
    I would definatly rebuild the carbs
    Do the Oil Block Off Plate and Primix

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by theheisk View Post
    Depends on what you will need done and how much money you want to spend. If you just want to fix that one cylinder or do a top end or a complete rebuild? If the ski has alot of hours then you probably have a tired crank and would want to do a complete rebuild.

    How many hours on the ski?
    I would definatly rebuild the carbs
    Do the Oil Block Off Plate and Primix
    96hrs. No carbs. It is FI

  4. #4
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    Contact WFO performance on this forum. He is the Yamaha Guru.

  5. #5

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    Best case scenario in terms of dollars and time:

    New or rebuilt cylinder, top bearings, wrist pin, circlips, rings, and cylinder base gasket. Take a hard,hard,HARD look at the crank (bearings and rod)on the big end for any discoloration due to lack of lubrication. If it looks good (shiny silver vs dull silver), put it back together and ride it.

    100 hrs on a well maintained Yamaha is not a lot of hrs.... especially when you use a high quality oil like Klotz or Amsoil. The other two cylinders presumeably are fine, and if they are then the only thing to really be concerned with is wether or not the crank bearing on the bad cylinder has over heated. If they did, then it is time to bebuild the crank. If that is the case, then while it is apart, you might as well re ring the other two pistons (making sure that the other two pistons are still within tolerences).

    Some times you can get away with this scenario. That is why it is important to know good mechanics like WFO.... guys who really know what they are looking at.

    www.boats.net for parts

    Premixing is a good idea.

  6. #6
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    take jug and send it to us chrome or http://www.mt-llc.com/
    buy a new piston kit
    buy new head gasket or copper spray the exisiting and cross your fingers that it holds up

  7. #7
    There's your problem.


    OK. Treat me like I am stupid. I know very little with 2 strokes and even less with PWC.
    Can this be fixed with a new jug and ring job? Too much gone on the side and need a piston too?

    Do I have to pull the motor out or can it be fixed with it in the runner? I know out would make it easier to work on.

    How much of the shavings would be in the crank?
    I am guessing it is a pull it all out and clean it up job, but seeing if there is a short cut.

    And most importantly,what caused it???
    The oil lines are still attached.

  8. #8

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    Based on that single picture, it does not look to bad..... all things being considered. The only thing at this point holding the jug on is the (4) 14 mm bolts at the base of the jug and the little couplers which tie the valves together. Imagine that the whole engine is like three little single piston engines tied together by a common crank. The #1 and #3 engines are OK, but #2 is bad. Ignore the 2 good ones at this point and focus on the bad one. Go ahead and pull the jug off.

    Make sure that both piston rings are intact and complete, that both alignment pins on the ring grooves are still in place, and in general, no broken pieces are laying around. Use WD-40 to hose down the bearing at the big end of the rod to clean all potential debris out of the bearing. I would expect to see some aluminum dust (dark grey, muddy looking). Check the base gasket and make sure that the tab on the gasket is on the side closest to the front of the engine before you pull it. Clean out the bottom of the crank case by sopping out all of the excess WD-40 with a clean rag, then use an air host to blow out the rest. Do this a couple of times , and rotate the engine a few times to make sure the bearing is clean. Take a picture of the cleaned up crank bearings, and better yet, if you have a good mechanic friend who knows discolored bearings when he sees them, invite him over for a beer and a peek at your crank. (This and accounting for all missing pieces are the most important things to do if you choose not to pull the whole engine and completely rebuild)

    Remove the valve cover on the jug, then take the valve out by removing the two allen head screws. Make a mental note of the top and bottom of the valve because you can reinstall it upside down if you do not pay attention. Take a before and after picture of it (dirty and cleaned up). We want to see the wear pattern.

    Take a close up picture of the worn part of the piston... top and side.

  9. #9
    ^^
    Thanks Salty

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