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  1. #1

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    Trying to convert back to oil injection - help

    So I've come to hate mixing gas lol. The tank is huge and multiple trips to the gas station with the 5 gallon gas can and measuring out the oil etc... ug. Plus it takes forever to dump from the 5 gallon can to the ski's tank.

    So I'm looking for the missing parts from my ski. This appears to be the correct oil injection pump right?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Kawasaki-Jetski-STX-STS-ZXI-900-Oil-Pump-JT900-JH900-/221131040962?pt=Personal_Watercraft_Parts&hash=ite m337c6fe8c2&vxp=mtr

    Then all I need to find is the oil container itself which I presume has a low oil level float inside of it as I see an oil light on the dash area of the ski. If someone else with a 900 ZXI doesn't mind posting pics of their oil container, the pump and anything else they can to show parts and layout I'd really appreciate it. I'd love to just pull the ski to the gas station on the trailer and just pump gas in it.


  2. #2
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    That is the right oil pump. You will also need the damper bearing #44070 on this diagram, along with the clips, etc.
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...UMP/parts.html
    Here is a diagram of the tank...if you click on the part numbers, it will show the interchange between other ski's and years...
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ANK/parts.html
    Oil level switch...http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ERS/parts.html
    The oil level switch you can do without pretty easily because you can visually see the level in the tank...and a full tank of oil is usually enough for almost 3 tank fulls of gas. So if you just top it off every time before you head out for the day you will be ok.
    If needed, I'm sure you can adapt another oil tank off of another ski to this one. It doesn't necessarily have to be the one that was designed for it.
    Last edited by TexasZ; 08-01-2013 at 05:39 AM. Reason: added link

  3. #3

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    Thanks man. I actually found a used oil container with float in it for my exact Jet Ski on ebay last night and purchased it. I also got the original hold down bracket and straps.

    Thanks for the tip on that bearing. Looks like I'll have to pull the front cover of the motor off to get a bearing in there. I assume one is already in there but should be replaced right? When I pull that engine cover do I need a replacement gasket or is it just silicon gasket maker to put it back? I'd like to get gasket ahead of time if it'll be needed.

    Also what is part # 59071 in this diagram?
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ANK/parts.html
    It looks to be a one way valve of sorts. Or is it just a filter to keep dirt out? For some reason it doesn't show up in the parts list below so I'm not even sure how to order it.
    I looked on bikebandit.com as well and it also shows the part but doesn't list the part # below.

    From those exploded view diagrams it appears there's an oil line from the tank to the pump and from the pump three separate outlets that go to each of the three carbs? or is it into the intake manifold below the carb? I'm sure it'll become more apparent when I get in there pulling things apart.

  4. #4
    The three outlets go one to each carb.

  5. #5
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    Trips to the gas station? Take your ski to the gas station ONCE, fill it up and figure out how much oil to add......the ratios are on the back of the oil container......... oil injection is asking for a blown motor....IMHO......every 2 stroke I ever had, even brand new were converted to premix....

  6. #6
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    The oil lines from the oil pump go to the carbs. When you pull the carbs you will see where they caped the inlets off when they went to premix.

    The front cover takes an o-ring type gasket to seal it back. Look over the diagrams to see what else you might need.
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...%29/parts.html
    Clean out the water inlet and outlet on that cover real good...that is where the cooling system likes to stop up at.

    The damper bearing was most likely taken out when they removed the oil pump. If it is still in there, there is a 99.9% chance it is worn out by now. Worn out damper bearings are also the cause of oil pump failures. The pump itself didn't fail but the bearing would wear out and cause the failure.

    That 59071 line filter is something you would want to discard if you had one, as they were notorious for stopping up and causing the oil to not flow to the pump. They were replaced by the filter screen that is inside the neck of the oil tank...much better design and it can be removed to clean when needed.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aquaholic6801 View Post
    Trips to the gas station? Take your ski to the gas station ONCE, fill it up and figure out how much oil to add......the ratios are on the back of the oil container......... oil injection is asking for a blown motor....IMHO......every 2 stroke I ever had, even brand new were converted to premix....
    So you just pump the gas in and then figure out how much oil it needs and then dump the oil into the filler neck? Doesn't seem like that would mix real well. Not to mention it's always going to take a different amount of gas unless you ran it bone dry each time. You'd only have to screw up that calculation once and dump the wrong amount of oil in there and you'd have a blown motor. That's why I was mixing 5 gallons at a time in a gas can to try and get as accurate as possible amount of oil/fuel ratio and then pouring into the jet ski's tank.
    Personally I have no issue with oil injection. Like anything else it should be cared for and maintained. I've run oil injection on dirt bikes and on road dual sport bikes for years with no issues. It works well and is my preference due to the convenience factor. Like TexasZ says below it would appear the part that wears on these is the damper bearing so replacing that every few years should ensure trouble free operation.

    Quote Originally Posted by TexasZ View Post
    The oil lines from the oil pump go to the carbs. When you pull the carbs you will see where they caped the inlets off when they went to premix.

    The front cover takes an o-ring type gasket to seal it back. Look over the diagrams to see what else you might need.
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...%29/parts.html
    Clean out the water inlet and outlet on that cover real good...that is where the cooling system likes to stop up at.

    The damper bearing was most likely taken out when they removed the oil pump. If it is still in there, there is a 99.9% chance it is worn out by now. Worn out damper bearings are also the cause of oil pump failures. The pump itself didn't fail but the bearing would wear out and cause the failure.

    That 59071 line filter is something you would want to discard if you had one, as they were notorious for stopping up and causing the oil to not flow to the pump. They were replaced by the filter screen that is inside the neck of the oil tank...much better design and it can be removed to clean when needed.
    Thanks for the tip on the oil line filter. I'll dig through all those diagrams and find all the stuff I need. From your comments it sounds like the carbs will need to be pulled to gain access to the oil injection nipples. Is that correct? I may need to look at getting replacement gaskets/seals to re-install the carbs in that case too.

    Is there anything special about the oil lines? I'm assuming I can pick up any good quality hose from my local auto parts store that is oil/fuel resistant and it should be good, or is there something special in a marine application?

    Thanks guys

  8. #8

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    One thing I noticed about this oil pump on ebay is that it's part number 16082-3717 which was later replaced by 16082-3719 which is what partzilla and bikebandit etc. sell now. Anyone know what was updated between the revisions? Seems like a bad idea to get the prior version as there was potentially something very wrong that Kawasaki addressed and made a new part # for. I'm not sure how someone would find that information out unless the worked for Kawasaki. Be nice to know in case it's not something to worry about as it's half the price.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Kawa...tem337c6fe8c2=

  9. #9
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmV8 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Aquaholic6801 View Post
    Trips to the gas station? Take your ski to the gas station ONCE, fill it up and figure out how much oil to add......the ratios are on the back of the oil container......... oil injection is asking for a blown motor....IMHO......every 2 stroke I ever had, even brand new were converted to premix....
    So you just pump the gas in and then figure out how much oil it needs and then dump the oil into the filler neck? Doesn't seem like that would mix real well. Not to mention it's always going to take a different amount of gas unless you ran it bone dry each time. You'd only have to screw up that calculation once and dump the wrong amount of oil in there and you'd have a blown motor. That's why I was mixing 5 gallons at a time in a gas can to try and get as accurate as possible amount of oil/fuel ratio and then pouring into the jet ski's tank.
    Personally I have no issue with oil injection. Like anything else it should be cared for and maintained. I've run oil injection on dirt bikes and on road dual sport bikes for years with no issues. It works well and is my preference due to the convenience factor. Like TexasZ says below it would appear the part that wears on these is the damper bearing so replacing that every few years should ensure trouble free operation.

    Quote Originally Posted by TexasZ View Post
    The oil lines from the oil pump go to the carbs. When you pull the carbs you will see where they caped the inlets off when they went to premix.

    The front cover takes an o-ring type gasket to seal it back. Look over the diagrams to see what else you might need.
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...%29/parts.html
    Clean out the water inlet and outlet on that cover real good...that is where the cooling system likes to stop up at.

    The damper bearing was most likely taken out when they removed the oil pump. If it is still in there, there is a 99.9% chance it is worn out by now. Worn out damper bearings are also the cause of oil pump failures. The pump itself didn't fail but the bearing would wear out and cause the failure.

    That 59071 line filter is something you would want to discard if you had one, as they were notorious for stopping up and causing the oil to not flow to the pump. They were replaced by the filter screen that is inside the neck of the oil tank...much better design and it can be removed to clean when needed.
    Thanks for the tip on the oil line filter. I'll dig through all those diagrams and find all the stuff I need. From your comments it sounds like the carbs will need to be pulled to gain access to the oil injection nipples. Is that correct? I may need to look at getting replacement gaskets/seals to re-install the carbs in that case too.

    Is there anything special about the oil lines? I'm assuming I can pick up any good quality hose from my local auto parts store that is oil/fuel resistant and it should be good, or is there something special in a marine application?

    Thanks guys
    I personally use Tygon...1/8 I.D. with the 1/4" outside diameter. I don't use zip ties either, I use the Oetiker clamps. Steve uses stainless wire wrapped a couple of times and twisted. Many different and good ways to go about it.

    Much easier to deal with the oil lines on the carbs if they are removed. New carb gaskets will be needed.

    What Aquaholic is saying is sage advice for sure. To me, it's sage advice because people simply don't take care of the oil injection system so it naturally fails at some point in time.

    Just my opinion...take good care of the oil injection system in a timely manner and you're not likely to ever have a failure. There is a risk in everything and nothing has an absolute 100% no chance of failure rate.

    Premix around my house doesn't work. Too many ski's, too many people gassing them up. My son's friends have been known to bring their own gas with them and dump that gas in the ski's to help out. Way too much confusion here for there not to be a whoopsy somewhere along the way. And then there's me, hell I'm langbrained enough to get things confused myself and get it wrong.

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  11. #10
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcolmV8 View Post
    One thing I noticed about this oil pump on ebay is that it's part number 16082-3717 which was later replaced by 16082-3719 which is what partzilla and bikebandit etc. sell now. Anyone know what was updated between the revisions? Seems like a bad idea to get the prior version as there was potentially something very wrong that Kawasaki addressed and made a new part # for. I'm not sure how someone would find that information out unless the worked for Kawasaki. Be nice to know in case it's not something to worry about as it's half the price.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Kawa...tem337c6fe8c2=
    They're giving "both" part numbers there. Chances are it's the later number part because the older number was superseded many years ago, so all the older ones are long gone long years ago.
    Me personally, I would buy that one and never think twice about it.

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