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  1. #1
    C Doo's Avatar
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    for the guys running the CP Carillo Pistons

    did anyone have dramas getting the rings to run in? And what oil did u use during run in period?

    I used the normal Sea Doo oil, and it has not seemed to do the job. Guys at my machine shop said i would need to use a cheap mineral oil to give those rings a chance to bed in. But will this hurt my SC clutches?? They said run it for 4 or 5 hours, then change back to original sea doo. But as u can't get all the oil out without pulling engine, it might take a couple of changes to get it good again.


  2. #2
    Duke's Avatar
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    4 diff choices of rings and all require diff honing requirements. Which rings do you have??

  3. #3
    C Doo's Avatar
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    ummmmm, not sure on that. i ordered the pistons thru Jerry, 8.4:1 and .25 oversize... but not sure on ring type... Jerry can u help?

  4. #4
    shrabber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Doo View Post
    did anyone have dramas getting the rings to run in? And what oil did u use during run in period?

    I used the normal Sea Doo oil, and it has not seemed to do the job. Guys at my machine shop said i would need to use a cheap mineral oil to give those rings a chance to bed in. But will this hurt my SC clutches?? They said run it for 4 or 5 hours, then change back to original sea doo. But as u can't get all the oil out without pulling engine, it might take a couple of changes to get it good again.
    No dramas valvoline 10-40 four stroke.


    I have not had a problem with a ring seal with cp's for that any pistons. I have had a defective piston ,rings, and broken rings. For a machine shop to tell you to run one sort of mineral oil to break in rings is crazy. I have been building motors for years you have seal the minute you properly build a motor correctly and achieve optimum seal after break in.You do not loose seal unless something is not done right or have some type of internal engine failure.

    On the hone you want to 40 degree cross hatch angle, all the rings cp uses are cpn and cpn2 and both Cp recommends the cross hatch angle hone. A good machine shop (machinist) has all this guess work covered.
    Last edited by shrabber; 08-01-2013 at 04:34 AM.

  5. #5
    C Doo's Avatar
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    yes its cross hatched. bore is spot on. ring gap perfect too. He is not the only person telling me to run in on mineral oil. Done 10 hours since rebuild, looks like it hasn't run in at all?? Strange as... Just want to get it right this time.

  6. #6
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Doo View Post
    yes its cross hatched. bore is spot on. ring gap perfect too. He is not the only person telling me to run in on mineral oil. Done 10 hours since rebuild, looks like it hasn't run in at all?? Strange as... Just want to get it right this time.
    How do you tell they have not run in?

  7. #7
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    The old sea-doo oil was mineral oil or (Castrol GTX10W40) back in the day, then they switched to a semi synthetic oil. Thats probably why they arent seating in right away.

    Because I run a turbo, I run cheap napa oil to break it in, then switch to Mobil 1 Synthetic.

    The valvoline oil for wet clutch apps will work, like he said. Look for JASO-MA on the label.

  8. #8
    Eastside Powersports Slow 91's Avatar
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    I run Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil on all of my engine builds and personal skis. As long as you don't use synthetic right away, you wont have an issue seating rings.

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  10. #9
    C Doo's Avatar
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    what rating is the sea doo xps oil? Sounds like Castrol or Valvoline is the go tho...

    With the work done to ski i struggled to really get it to load up during run in. It just pulled like a train! Might need to try a more stock tune, original injectors, and possibly an x charger for a few hours... then bring back the power!!

  11. #10
    C Doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocman View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by C Doo View Post
    yes its cross hatched. bore is spot on. ring gap perfect too. He is not the only person telling me to run in on mineral oil. Done 10 hours since rebuild, looks like it hasn't run in at all?? Strange as... Just want to get it right this time.
    How do you tell they have not run in?
    Machinist looked at bore and rings and said it looks like it didn't grab. Then the oil thing came up. He said the XPS semi syn oil was coating the bore too much and rings with just straight slipping... and this is where i'm at! Plus he is now being anal with the valve height. We originally matched the Ferreas to the stock height, but he would prefer an actual figure from rotax... otherwise he said bring him the rest of the parts and he will work it out

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