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  1. #1

    OK I give up any suggextion on Mag side cylinder getting HOT...2000 stx 1100 di

    So far I've cleaned gas tank (Loaded with rust), cleaned fuel pump, checked the fuel pressure bouncing between 30-40 while idling, replaced fuel pressure regulator seemed to be leaking a hair below 25lbs, pulled motor replaced mag side crank seal seemed to be leaking oil into the flywheel case(thought I had it then), replaced all gaskets including splitting the motor and liquid gasket cases, ohm checked the water and air temp sensors, blew out all coolant lines, checked out all passages for obstruction in water jackets, checked check valve for fuel tank, replaced a bad fuel level sensor, switched mag piston with PTO to see if the piston was rubbing to much( no obvious signs of anything in the cylinders or on pistons)...Took it to a shop that said they had a computer but apparently didn't, but said they put a good computer on it and it did the same thing so the computer is supposed to be good... After doing all this I still have the same problem as I started... The Mag side cylinder will burn your hand and the other 2 are warm within 15 seconds ? (on the hose and in the water )Here's the weird stuff the piston wash shows it was running richer than the other 2 and no scuff marks on piston or cylinder....As soon as it gets hot the check engine light comes on and the motor starts to spit and sputter and sometimes quits... I'm guessing the water temp sensor is picking up that the cylinder is getting hot and kicking it into the limp mode ?.... Sorry for the long wind but it's been a long 3 weeks of diagnosing this problem.... I tried finding the Kadiag software but it seems non existent at this point... My dealer told me $98 to put it on theirs then when I went there to have the mech take off the flywheel with his puller he told me they don't even work on them anymore because they didn't have the computer to hook it up ......Enough from me any help is appreciated....oil lines seem fine flow could be the problem or maybe I overlooked something....Thanks for any input....


  2. #2
    also replaced fuel filter ....

  3. #3
    kensmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smille5291 View Post
    also replaced fuel filter ....
    Possible recent jetting issue, blockage ?

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    It gets too hot to touch in 15 seconds??? On the hose?!?!?!?

    About the only think I can think of that might cause that would be either a plugged water jacket, leaking head gasket, or a cracked cylinder. How's the compression? Are the oil lines going to the right places? It makes a difference on that engine.

  5. #5

    stx issues

    Thanks for the suggestions.... All that you mentioned I also thought of and everything seems good I did replace the crank seals and found a semi plugged water jacket in the stator cover...Now my exhaust manifold was welded apparently at one time and just happens to be on that cylinder so I just replaced that.. I inspected it before and thought I may have found the issue but couldn't find any problems with the welds and none of them were into the exhaust but only the water jacket but decided to replace it anyways today thinking it could have been to small for me to see.... If I get it I will def. post it I am starting to feel like a jet ski mechanic....Also just found the CPS wires were breaking inside the plastic housing causing the motor to run rough and quit....I checked it with an ohm meter and it read 430ohms like it should have wiggled the wire a little and it would cut out that might be why my chck eng. light coming on and not the hot cylinder....... NOw I noticed my #3 cylinder fuel injector is blowing gas like crazy (didn't do that before!!)....Might have to tighten it down to seal not sure... I only hand tightened them to try it quick...Once again thanks...

  6. #6
    I've always found the front cylinder on all the Kawi 1100's run hotter than the other 2.
    The cold water input is located on the exhaust manifold between cylinders 2 & 3 so it appears that cylinder 1 gets less cooling.
    Knowing the problem, when I built my SXR1100 I added an additional water fitting on the exhaust manifold between cylinders 1 & 2.
    This has provided a better flow of water through the cylinders & head. All cylinders now run at the same temperature.

    GroupK know about this problem also.
    When they ported my cylinders they also modified the head & added an extra water outlet on the head above cylinder #1 to help get the heat away.
    It's easy to drill & tap the head to do this.


    Quote Originally Posted by Smille5291 View Post
    So far I've cleaned gas tank (Loaded with rust), cleaned fuel pump, checked the fuel pressure bouncing between 30-40 while idling, replaced fuel pressure regulator seemed to be leaking a hair below 25lbs, pulled motor replaced mag side crank seal seemed to be leaking oil into the flywheel case(thought I had it then), replaced all gaskets including splitting the motor and liquid gasket cases, ohm checked the water and air temp sensors, blew out all coolant lines, checked out all passages for obstruction in water jackets, checked check valve for fuel tank, replaced a bad fuel level sensor, switched mag piston with PTO to see if the piston was rubbing to much( no obvious signs of anything in the cylinders or on pistons)...Took it to a shop that said they had a computer but apparently didn't, but said they put a good computer on it and it did the same thing so the computer is supposed to be good... After doing all this I still have the same problem as I started... The Mag side cylinder will burn your hand and the other 2 are warm within 15 seconds ? (on the hose and in the water )Here's the weird stuff the piston wash shows it was running richer than the other 2 and no scuff marks on piston or cylinder....As soon as it gets hot the check engine light comes on and the motor starts to spit and sputter and sometimes quits... I'm guessing the water temp sensor is picking up that the cylinder is getting hot and kicking it into the limp mode ?.... Sorry for the long wind but it's been a long 3 weeks of diagnosing this problem.... I tried finding the Kadiag software but it seems non existent at this point... My dealer told me $98 to put it on theirs then when I went there to have the mech take off the flywheel with his puller he told me they don't even work on them anymore because they didn't have the computer to hook it up ......Enough from me any help is appreciated....oil lines seem fine flow could be the problem or maybe I overlooked something....Thanks for any input....

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flywheel View Post
    It's easy to drill & tap the head to do this.

    Can you provide with more info please. What size fitting do you add? Where? Do you tee that fitting to the other one?

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