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  1. #1

    GPR1200 Question

    I am a new PWC owner who purchased a 97 GP1200 a couple of months ago. Well about the 5th time out my oil line popped off (now I know this is a common problem). I took the ski to a local Mom/Pop shop and they replaced the starter. (went out as kids tried to repeatedly start the ski with a locked up cylinder. Well I get it back it starts fine and locks up again 5 minuted into the ride. Before it died It was running fine. Once it died I spit and sputtered back to the dock. So knowing somethign was wrong I loaded it up took it home and ran a basic compression test on each cylinder. #1 120 #2 120 #3 no reading so this is the cylinder that the oil line popped off on. I'm thinking the only reason it ran after putting the new starter in was because the oil line was put back on and it limped along with the damaged piston.

    Now is where I need the help. I'm pulling the motor tonight and need advice on how much to dive into this. I'm thinking of having a machine shop bore out my top end and putting in a new top end kit. If I do this should I buy the parts firs then take all of it to my machine shop so they have the specs? Also should I inspect anything else while the motor is out? Is this the recommended repair for this common problem.

    Also i'm converting over to pre-mix.

    I've learned any information I need can be found here so that's been/going to be a big help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    New Jersey
    I'll put everything new on that side just to be on the safe side..

  3. #3
    That's the way i'm leaning.

    Any suggestions on removing the damaged piston. It is pretty beat up around the Pins that hold the Piston onto the Rod.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Texas City, Texas
    Think big picture:

    This is a 16 year old waver runner. If you fix the obvious problems, what subtle problems will you NOT pick up? For instance, many skis with time and through no fault of their owners develope air leaks, especially around the front and rear seals. Your strategy does not take this into consideration. How about the metal shaveings that are now floating around in the bottom of your crank case? How long were your crank bearings oil starved? When were your carbs rebuilt, etc, etc, etc.?

    The 65U engine that is in your 97 is a very strong, reliable one....... but yours is tired. IMHO it would be wise to pull the whole engine, find a very reputable builder to go all the way through the engine and put everything back to spec. Generally speaking, if they know what they are doing, a developed engine like this can be put together better than new.

    When you have good documentation from someone who knows how to build these engines, the craft becomes easy to sell, and generally you will get most of the money back when the time comes to sell it. Would you not be more inclined to buy a PWC from someone who had the motor reworked professionally and had a good reputation for it?

    Let's not forget all the things that I mentioned that could potentially be a part of your future.

    To answer your question, take a pair of needle nose pliers and remove the metal circlips at the wrist pins. Take a 7/16 deep socket and line it up to the wrist pin and knock it out of the piston with a hammer.

  5. #5
    All good points and I plan to open the top end up tonight and make a decision on how far to go with this.

    Thank you for recomendation on removing the pistons. Didn't think about using a deep socket.

  6. #6
    I don't like hammering on the side of a piston (because that gets transferred to the lower rod bearings), so I use a threaded rod through the piston pin. On one side, put the 7/16 deep socket, on the other side put a 1" or larger socket (big enough so the piston pin fits INSIDE it). Put a stack of washers behind both sockets, then nuts and just start tightening the nuts. The pin will be pushed out one side.

  7. #7
    I started on in last night and tried to lighlty tap the pin out with no luck.

    The good news was everything looked good wit my lower end of the motor. I may post some pics over the weekend just to make sure i'm not missing anything.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    New Jersey
    you have to take the clip off the pin...

  9. #9
    I did take the clip off but it's damaged from the heat and getting beat up when it seized up. I"m going to get her out tonight now that I have some time to work on it.

    Another question. I was referred to a local machine shop by the Yamaha dealer. They quoted me $50 per cylinder to do the machine work then additional cost for milling the damaged head. Is that a fair price?

  10. #10
    anyone on the machine pricing?

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