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  1. #1
    steve45's Avatar
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    Failure Analysys--Ultra 150 Fuel Level Sensor

    The fuel level sensor on my Ultra 150 stopped working last year. I expected to find it plugged up with crud, but that's not the case. The whole assembly is warped. I'm guessing it's a reaction from the ethanol in the fuel, but can't prove it. I've got a new sensor ($$$) that I'm going to install, just worried about future failures.

    If you look at the photos, you can see the housing is warped, the screen for the pickups is warped, and the track that the float slides in is warped causing it to bind.

    I'm of the belief that the screen really isn't needed because there is also an inline filter. I'm going to try heating the track with a heat gun to see if I can straighten it. If I can do that, then put some sort of plastic plate over it to keep the float in the track, I think it would be useable as a spare.

    I would imagine that the other boats with the electronic displace use a similar setup. You might be able to salvage your fuel level sensor. Just make sure the fuel has dried before you try to heat it!

    Here are some pictures:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    UPDATE: I tried warming the sensor and was able to get it pretty straight. The float slides freely. Unfortunately, it no longer works. I don't know if there is any circuitry inside it or not, but if there it, I would guess it got too hot.

    I really don't understand why Kawasaki puts a screen on the pickup, the fit is so sloppy between the cover and the body that it wouldn't do anything anyway.

  3. #3
    Bnelson's Avatar
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    Steve I'm glad you posted this. I actually went through the same thing last week. I pulled the sending unit and it was extremely warped like yours. I let it dry overnight and used my heat gun the next day. Unfortunately I experienced the same results you did. I was was pretty excited wen I was able to get the unit straight again. But as soon as I had the float sliding smoothly and installed...... Nothin, guage is stuck on full. So my thoughts are the same as yours. There has to be some sort circuitry that I too fried..... Oh well looks like I'm gonna have to fork out the cash for a new one. Never hurts to try, wish it was as easy as repairing my seadoo sending unit

  4. #4
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Exactly the same state as mine I replaced last week. It still worked electronically, but in the ski, read empty after a few days. The float/magnet sank. I dried it out, but it sank slowly over a few days. I replaced the assembly, all good.
    Put the old float in some gas, it barely floated, next day it had sank.

    I really can't complain, it lasted 13 years. Just wish Kawi would sell the float, not having to buy the whole thing

  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplishSplash View Post
    I really can't complain, it lasted 13 years. Just wish Kawi would sell the float, not having to buy the whole thing
    Want my old float? I'll test it and see if it floats.

  6. #6
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve but I have the new assembly installed. Hopefully it will outlast the ski.

    Funny how they warp at the bottom, but that area is pretty much 100% of its life in fuel. Mine had the screen removed years ago when I thought it was causing some fuel issues. It wasn't, it turned out to be the check valve.

    Did yours actually jam in the curved part? Mine would stick there , until it dried out, the it moved free. But then it would sink.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    Mine seemed to move freely in the curve when I pulled it, but when it was in the 'Ski, it would only indicate about 1/3 full regardless of the level.

  8. #8
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    Im surprised to see that thing is all plastic.

  9. #9
    Where did you buy the sending unit? Do you know how to determin if the gauge cluster or the sending unit is faulty?

  10. #10
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcc0521 View Post
    Where did you buy the sending unit? Do you know how to determin if the gauge cluster or the sending unit is faulty?

    To test that the cluster, disconnect the sending unit connector coming from the tank.
    With it disconnected, the cluster should read empty and the warning light should be flashing.
    then jump the connector above, towards the cluster(not the tank way) with a 1k resistor, the gauge should read very close to 1/2 full.
    repeat with a 350 ohm resistor and it should read Full.

    radio shack should have the two resistors for the test.

    i just ordered a new sending unit from here Jerry. E-bay has them sometimes but they are year specific.

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