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  1. #1

    2003 XLT 1200 - seized pump..?

    So I've recently taken custody of my buddy's 2003 XLT 1200. The thing always ran well and then started having some issues about 4 years ago -loss of power, sluggish response. He rebuilt the carbs and installed a D-Plate and chip. He states that that it ran great for another 3 tanks of gas after the rebuild and D-Plate install and then started exhibiting the same issues - sluggish response from 3k up, etc. Initially it sounded to me like it could be a fuel problem again, perhaps from fuel lines breaking down like they had on my Sea Doo. So it's been sitting for a while now and he states he poured a tablespoon of 2-stroke down each cylinder. Mind you now that it has been sitting outside for the last 2+ years near the Jersey shore. I should also note that it was used in salt water regularly.

    So, now I've accepted the challenge to get it going. So far, not so good. I removed the plugs and tried to turn the engine over by hand - it will not budge. I'm guessing that the pump is probably seized at this point and will need to be rebuilt (new bearings, seals, etcs.) My fear now is that if the pump is seized due to sitting around for the last 2+ years, having been operated in salt water and stored down the shore that removing the pump is not going to be easy. Based on looking at it for about 10 minutes, it appears that removing the entire pump assembly is the only way to split the engine from the shaft, correct? I want determine as quickly as possible if it's the bottom end or the pump.

    Also, there seems to be mixed consensus on whether or not correct the Power Valve issues on 2003 models or not. Some say put the Wave Eaters on others say they are not required. Should I just go ahead and do this as piece of mind?


  2. #2
    Julian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Groningen, Groningen, Netherlands
    You can easily remove the steering nozzle, vane housing, and pull the pump apart in 10 minutes. just pull it all out.
    Why would the pump be stuck? just because of salt water? post pictures of the impeller in the pump if possible?

    There are lots of threats and photo's of the pump on here, whichwill help you step by step.. if the engine is stuck, its a whole bigger issue.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    boudin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Houston, TX
    More than likely the wear ring has bubbled up in a few places and the impeller can't move. As Julian said, pull the pump and see.


  4. #4
    Confirmed that corrosion is pushing wear ring into impeller. Also confirmed that motor turns free now. Assuming that I do wind up purchasing the machine from my friend, my thoughts were to order a gasket set and pull the cans so that a more thorough investigation can be done. My concern is with the amount of time the machine has been sitting outside with the exhaust remove that moisture could have worked its way down to the crank. Is this a valid concern or am I being paranoid. My thought is that a gasket set and some time is far less expensive than a short block.

    So at this point I need a new wear ring housing and impeller. I see that STB has available OEM reconditioned impellers. Is it worth going this route or upgrading at this point to aftermarket? I also found that RIVA makes a one piece stainless steel wear ring assembly. To me this make sense, since there should never be any concern in the future for corrosion or failure. Thoughts?

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    Also, any ideas what that green slime is in the last photo? Should I be concerned that this could potentially be in the motor cooling jackets?

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Texas City, Texas
    Here's what I think.

    You have a 10 year old craft that when it ran last, it had problems.... and no clear solution to THAT problem. Fast forward to today, you find that it has other problems totally unrelated to the original problem. Sitting on a trailer for two years and near the ocean at that is a slow, agonizing death for a two stroke.

    Now for the good news. That boat in its day was a sound cruiser, so it is worth having. The components that you would need to get it into the water are probably laying around in someones garage or shop in places all over this country, so focus on used components. You are going to have to be willing to chase Gremlins for a while to get this craft to operate as designed. And since you have not got a dime tied up in it as of yet, you have a long way to go (financially speaking) before you get hurt.

    Go aftermarket Solas 12/18 impeller... get a used one on this forum.
    Seal the pump shoe
    Use a couple of bottles of lime away on the jackets and exhaust to get rid of the funk. Check that no chunks of "lime" plugs the holes at the bottom of the stinger.
    SKAT-TRAC rebuilds wear rings... they are Stainless Steel, and the price may be cheaper than RIVA
    Assume that the carbs need to be rebuilt. Check to make sure that the external fuel filter is clean and flapper in tank has been removed.
    Wave eater clips.
    Get rid of old oil, clean gas tank

  6. #6
    Thanks for the replies. What do you think this thing is worth based on what we know today? I have seen a number threads where people state a non-running ski is not worth more than the hull and trailer - e.g. like $500. What is a fare price for this thing knowing it's been a salt water machine most of its life?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Texas City, Texas
    A fair price is very subjective, and I would say that 500 is very cheap. For instance, a good used trailer is worth 3-400 bucks where I live. I am certain that you can get more than 500 for the PWC if you were to part it out. That's 800 right there. You have to factor in your time though.

    On the other hand, if you were to spend a couple of grand having it totally rebuilt by a professional tuner, you would have a heck of a ride that would last for years with little problems. Like I've said, the boat is a ride worth having. The engine has been developed and there are no secrects to them. You just have to find a local guy that knows how to put this engine together properly... and knows all the minor problems that are common to this craft and is willing to take the time to go all the way through it for you. Of course, you could save a lot of money by reading up on the common problems of this craft and fixing those things yourself and let the tuner do all the heaving lifting by completely going through the is better than chasing Gremlins.

    You could ride it for a couple of years and get most of your money back when you sell it . The question you have to ask yourself is: How much money am I willing to put into a PWC to get a reliable boat that is fun to ride?

    There are people would not hesitate to put 2-3 grand into a PWC that is not perfect. You have the good fortune to spend that much money to get an engine totally rebuilt, a good used impeller, ride plate, intake, etc and a few other goodies that will make it a well running machine.

    Like I said, it is going to be real hard for you to get hurt financialy, especially if you have little to no money for the initial purchase AND a pro tuner put it together.

    There are a few tuners that monitor this site. Perhaps you can get one of them to comment on going through and engine that has no major issues such as a bad crank or burned up piston, etc. They know more about the cost of a "basic rebuild" then I. If not, then PM a few of them. It will help you decide what to do.

    By the way, this is a worst case scenario. You could just replace the wear ring, rebuild the carbs, change out the gas and oil and ride it .... or should I say roll the dice.

  8. #8
    Decided to move forward with this project. I have a fresh water wear ring housing on its way. My problem now is how to get the old swollen wear ring off the impeller. It certainly will not slide off. I'm only able to turn the impeller in the wear ring about 3/4" with a large wrench on the impeller shoulder. As per above, the impeller needs some work and I was going to have a machine shop that I do work with tig that hole and and polish it out so I don't want to ruin the impeller. Any suggestions?

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Tampa, Florida
    Is the pump housing, impeller, still attached to the back of the hull, with all long housing bolts removed? If so, I moved the engine forward with a hoist, pulled the mid shaft and mid shaft bearing housing out and that exposed the driveshaft with splines showing through the hull. I tapped on that with a rubber mallet and it freed up the impeller from the swollen aluminum liner. Somebody else will surely chime in with better technique. good luck Michael

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by lawyerboy View Post
    Is the pump housing, impeller, still attached to the back of the hull, with all long housing bolts removed? If so, I moved the engine forward with a hoist, pulled the mid shaft and mid shaft bearing housing out and that exposed the driveshaft with splines showing through the hull. I tapped on that with a rubber mallet and it freed up the impeller from the swollen aluminum liner. Somebody else will surely chime in with better technique. good luck Michael
    No - the shaft, wear ring and vein housing are out of the machine. The wear ring housing is still firmly attached to the vein housing despite the fact that all bolts are obviously removed.

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