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  1. #1
    bust7015's Avatar
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    Talking 96 SLTX - part throttle bogging and RPM

    Hello again and still learning! My 96 SLTX has a 1200 engine in it with one season on it (the engine) according to the shop that serviced the ski. It has a Nujet drive. I bought a 2003 Sea Doo GTI and the Polaris came with it. Two years ago it sank. This summer I made time for it. The shop said it wasn't worth saving but I felt different about it.
    By the water marks in the hull, the carbs did not go underwater. I fixed an ignition problem and the replaced the through-hull, put fresh fuel in it and gave it a good cleaning. It fires right up, I mean I just touch the starter button and it fires. Now, I got the MFD working. It idles about 1300 but it's a bit inconsistant. Max RPM is 5200 according to the MFD. Is that what it should be? I don't know what my speed is because the speedometer just leaks out from under the handlebar cover. I figure I might be doing 40 -45.
    I well versed in 4 strokes but I'm still learning about 2-strokes. It would seem that this jet ski should be alot stronger. It has a part-throttle bog and is a little slow to respond to the throttle at lower RPMs.
    When I had the drive off, I inspected it. The clearances appeared pretty tight and reasonable. The outer ring has some scratches in it where it must have been started while beached or driven across a sandbar.
    Is there a way to make sure the MFD is calibrated? and should it be reading and engine temp?
    I know it's alot of questions. I have Clymer manual but it just doesn't cover enough. Thanks again for all your help.
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You are down at least 1,000 RPM from expected wide open throttle. RPM is the primary indicator of engine health, not speedometer readings.

    Remove the MFD display and fix the water leak. There is a small hose back there that needs to be tightly connected to the nipple on the display. See my signature links for more MFD details.

    If you have not done so yet, remove the front stator cover and inspect the flywheel area. If it had/has water inside it will cause trouble.

    Read up on fuel system maintenance and carburetor rebuilding. These engines really demand the fuel system be 100% or you will have troubles.

    Temp sensor is just an overheat warning system.

  3. #3
    bust7015's Avatar
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    Ok, time to do some homework!

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
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    Max rpm at 5200 is deffinetly too low, it might only be running on 2 cylinders. You should be able to feel the cylinders to tell if all 3 are firing-all equally as hot.
    A compression test is also needed.
    Post pics of the engine.

    The 1050 should run 6500 rpm and the 1200's ran 6700 rpm

  5. #5
    bust7015's Avatar
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    won't have time to do a compression test until this weekend but all three cylinders seem to be the same temp. Here are some pics...Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    1999-SLTX's Avatar
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    is that a motor swap or did some of the sltx come with a 1200 ?

  7. #7
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Probably just FA is 1200. The engine Model No WC105 (on the sticker) is a 1050.

  8. #8
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    need compression #'s,i'd clip 1/4 to 3/8 off the plug end of the wires and rethread the boots back on.check that the throttle is actually opening the carbs all the way.also check that the accl pump is working properly.

  9. #9
    1999-SLTX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loonatik View Post
    Probably just FA is 1200. The engine Model No WC105 (on the sticker) is a 1050.
    ahh good catch , so they just thru a 1200 cover on the FA

    Quote Originally Posted by TxPro1200 View Post
    need compression #'s,i'd clip 1/4 to 3/8 off the plug end of the wires and rethread the boots back on.check that the throttle is actually opening the carbs all the way.also check that the accl pump is working properly.
    whats cool is the 99's went to the new style automotive ends so no cutting or screws ,

  10. #10
    bust7015's Avatar
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    Sorry it took me so long to follow up, had some surgery but I'm up and about now. Yes indeed, it is a 1050 ( I feel stupid) Anyways, I performed a compression test... 150 on all three cylinders. While I had it tied to my dock, I used a spark tester and ran it wide open and it appeared to have good spark to all cylinders. But now take a look at the plugs. #1 -top, #2 -center, #3 - bottom pic. Number one is really lean and obviously the carbs need some attention. Click image for larger version. 

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    Your thoughts? Also, is there a practical way to get the stator cover off or should I just pull the engine to access it. I am not a small guy!
    Last edited by bust7015; 09-16-2013 at 10:32 AM. Reason: description of problem

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