Thread: Getting at VTS Motor?
08-15-2013, 01:14 PM #1
Getting at VTS Motor?
As I embark on my first mods install today, I've already hit my first snag...
My VTS has been blowing fuses, so I figured the motor is probably seized up. I've removed the plastic VTS cover, and wouldn't you know the ONLY rust inside the entire boat is there inside that plastic case.
I'm trying to remove the motor from the case so I can try and take it apart, lubricate, and hope I don't have to replace it. I've removed the four 10mm locknuts, but it's not budging. I see a smaller nut up top, but I haven't tried removing that yet, since it seems that pulling those first four nuts did nothing to loosen the motor.
Any secret spell I need to utter before I can pull that motor?
08-15-2013, 01:19 PM #2
Also... of course I snapped one of the plastic tabs on the VTS housing cover trying to take it off. I'm thinking about just zip-tieing it shut anyway, unless anyone has some type of suggested clamp-mod.
I also plan to drill a couple of holes in the bottom of the cover so water/condensation can escape, so I can hopefully avoid this problem in the future.
08-15-2013, 01:31 PM #3
I drilled holes in the bottom of mine as well. If you search the forum, there is a window motor you can buy to replace the VTS motor and save money, I will see if I can find it. I believe there is a vts removal tool to take the assembly out too, I recall seeing it in the online store.
08-15-2013, 01:33 PM #4
08-15-2013, 01:34 PM #5
Thx, Lightning1. Yikes. Do I really need to yank the entire assembly? I can't just remove the motor from the housing in situ?
08-15-2013, 02:00 PM #6
it should pop right out, 4 10mm bolts and a little pull it should slide the motors gear out of the plastic gear that moves the trim
08-15-2013, 02:12 PM #7
Turns out I did need to remove that top nut, and it wasn't a different size, it was just threaded on deeper, so my socket couldn't grab it. After I got it off, the lower left bolt post was stuck, so I tapped it with a mallet and was able to pull the whole thing out.
Should I be able to move the motor by hand (with pliers?) It seems totally seized. Looks like I'll be hitting a Nissan dealer for a new window motor.
08-15-2013, 02:39 PM #8
And screw the Nissan dealer. They want over $500 for it. BRP one from the dealer was $182. Found it online at Autozone for $153, and made the local O'Reilly store price match it. I go pick it up in a few hours.
They say it has a "lifetime" warranty, so I'll keep the receipt and maybe test that out.
08-15-2013, 03:21 PM #9
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Scotland, UK
You`ll need to remove your vts rod from the nozzle and remove the rod from the vts unit, so you can remove the boot to check it`s condition.
If the boot is perished or split it will let water in through the vts module and into the housing where your vts motor is...this is usually what causes the shorting and blowing of fuses. For some reason the wires seem to be routed around the motor and down into the lowest part of the housing....so it doesn`t take much water in the housing to make contact with the wires.
This is exactly how i found mine. I changed out the boot that was perished and routed the wires up and over the vts motor out of the way, so hopefully i wont have this issue again.
08-15-2013, 04:09 PM #10
go to a junk yard and pay the $25-$40 bucks for the window motor
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