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  1. #1
    ford man's Avatar
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    in the middle of rebuilding carbs and replacing fuel lines

    i have a 2000 seadoo gs (718cc) i am in the middle of breaking down the carbs and rebuilding them. i found carb rebuild kits for about $30 on ebay (bidding price) i was just going to make sure this model has duel carbs correct? also what are some good quality fuel lines to replace the grey lines with ? any advice is greatly appreciated
    thanks cody (the pic shows the carb rebuild kits for a bidding price of $30)
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  2. #2
    skewba98z28's Avatar
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    The aftermarket kits are o.k. but I would get Mikuni kits. I had a flooding issue in my XP with a SBT kit. I replaced the SBT diaphram with a Mikuni and it fixed my issue. Not saying that kit is junk but for about $10 more you can have genuine mikuni parts. Also your ski is a single carb not dual.

  3. #3
    ford man's Avatar
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    alright i appreciate it man, and ill look ive heard Mikuni were really good
    thanks.

  4. #4
    skewba98z28's Avatar
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    No problem. We have done several carbs with aftermarket kits and no issues, but that one issue with my XP carbs kinda fouled my mood on them. Just be sure to pop the carb off and pressure check it once you have it back together.

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  6. #5
    ford man's Avatar
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    lol ill bet and i will do, im having a friend help me he works on 4 wheelers and other 2 strokes on the side so he'll know how to get em tuned right as for the fuel lines should i just get the black ones? ive heard their better than the green ones or whitch ever ones look cool.
    -cody

  7. #6
    skewba98z28's Avatar
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    Yeah just grab some automotive fuel line from your local parts house. You don't need the high pressure stuff. I think I bought a 25 ft roll, but you probably won't need that much. Be sure to check your fuel selector and fuel bowl o-ring. I usually replace both, but thats just me. Cheap insurance from a air leak.

    Handy page for specs
    http://www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html

  8. #7

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    And grease the bolts that hold the carb on the manifold!

  9. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    couple of pointers....

    use antiseize on the bolts to the carbs

    ALWAYS replace needles and seats when the carbs are rebuilt. Why those aren't included int eh rebuild kit is a mystery. Failur to replace needles and seats is a sure way to flood the engine with fuel the first hot day with a full tank when you leave the fuel switch on.

    Alwyas repalce the fuel selector ..cleaning has been problematic for me. SBT has decent fuel taps super cheap.

    I go with marine grade line from Shields..a bit tough to work with but I sleep better at night. Automotive line isn't good enough in my opinion as it doesn't have the fire and abrasion rating of marine line. I sell if for $3 a foot..it costs me a $1 a foot more then automotive line.

    Use otkier clamps..screw clamps are not relaible enough ( again my opinion)

    Use a brass wire brush to clean up the old fuel pump housing. DO NOT and I mean DO NOT use any kind of abraive paper or scraper. It's easy to damage the sealing area..and that is hard to track down once it starts acting up.

    Only work on one carb at a time..and take notes/pictures along the way.

    You only want to do a carb job once. So spare no expensive and don't try to cheap it.

  10. #9

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    Took me a week to get two of the carb mount bolts out. Had to cut the heads off with a die grinder and drive the bolts out of the carbs with a punch. They corrode and freeze in the carb body, not the threads. Grease em or antiseize in the hole that goes through the carbs.

  11. #10
    dlajoy1122's Avatar
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    buy this fuel line, you will NOT regret it. It looks nice, although that is not important, the price is great, but the best thing is that it is blue and see through. You can see fuel delivery.

    I replaced mine with this 2 weeks ago and I'm doing my friends this week.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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