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  1. #1

    Question Checking on my 2001 GPR800 caviatation fixes

    I've worked on motorcycles for years, but this jetski thing is new to me. So I'm confident I can get the job done right, as long as I know what I'm doing.
    I purchased an all-stock 2001 GP800, which cavitates badly when accelerating from zero. It hooks up pretty well around 15mph, but before that just feels like a badly slipping clutch.

    I've searched these (and other) forums pretty thoroughly, and have a pretty good idea of what I need to do. I've got a couple dumb questions about the process. Can you guys just sanity check my approach to make sure I've got this right?

    First, I'm going to seal the pump shoe. I've bought epoxy filler rather than the Riva kit, and a couple tubes of 3M4200 sealant. Is 4200 the right stuff?

    If I can get away with just that, I'd be happy. How much more difficult is it to break the shoe out once it's sealed and replace the wear ring/impeller if I need to go back in? Is it worth just doing them all at once? Can the wear ring and impeller be sufficiently checked while I'm doing the pump shoe?

    I'm also looking at the Riva intake grate, since it's not too expensive. It claims to reduce cavitation. Is that going to help enough to justify the cost? Is there a better cavitation fix I could be doing?

    Thanks for your help.


  2. #2
    You'll still be able to pull the shoe - filling the shoe just fills in the casting voids Yamaha left behind.

    +1 on the intake grate. It will stay hooked to the water better.
    +1 on an anti-cavitatino cone
    +1 on a Solas concord prop.

    All 4 will help. The biggest help will be the prop. I did my intake grate and shoe seal at the same time and noticed improvement, but the best was after when I got a prop. Still waiting on my cone.

  3. #3

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    It is the back of the shoe where it mates to the hull and transom plate that is most critical. Fill it and wipe all excess off with a solvent with particular attention to the intake tunnel.

    Sealing the shoe and removing and replaceing the wear ring are two jobs completely independent of each other. One will not effect the other.

    The 4200 is the right stuff and more than likely only all that you will need. The shoe can be difficult to remove, but it can be done with a little work..... it is not just a sealant, it is an adheasive. Once it is sealed (properly) there should be no reason to remove it again unless it is damaged.... so make sure you seal it right the first time!

    As stated, impeller will make a big difference.

  4. #4
    Thanks guys. The impeller's out of the budget for a while, I'm just trying for a quick fix for the last month or so of warm-enough weather. The stock impeller's a problem, even in good shape? I can live with a little lag, but right now I need to carefully feather and modulate the throttle to get the boat moving at all, or it'll just rev to redline.

    Edit: Salty: Thanks for clearing up about the shoe. It seemed like it had to be removed to get the pump out. I'm going to try just the seal, and then if it's not helping enough check the impeller. I was worried I'd have to do it in the other, more expensive, order.

  5. #5
    elmatta's Avatar
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    Buy a used prop in the classifieds. Shouldn't go for too much money.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by elmatta View Post
    Buy a used prop in the classifieds. Shouldn't go for too much money.
    This is what I did. Got basically a new impeller for 125. New they are 230

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by blorgfreth View Post
    Edit: Salty: Thanks for clearing up about the shoe. It seemed like it had to be removed to get the pump out. I'm going to try just the seal, and then if it's not helping enough check the impeller. I was worried I'd have to do it in the other, more expensive, order.
    It is not necessary to pull the shoe to work on the pump, or vice versa. However, it will be to your advantage to pull the pump to seal the shoe. In this way, you can see the seal job much easier and insure a complete, positive seal.

    Do not be concerned with pulling the pump. It is one of the most simple of things to do on your boat. It will probably take an hour to pull and reinstall the first time, and about 25 minutes any time you pull it after that due to your experience. Yamaha put alignment pins in all of the major pump components, so it is hard to mess up.

  8. #8
    Had my first ride with the sealed pump & ride plate. It's like a completely different boat. Gets right up to speed, and stays hooked on the water far better. I'm just amazed at how much sealing up the pump fixed it up. It's still a little slow off the line, but it doesn't simply rev to redline anymore. I'm guessing that's where the new impeller will help. The impeller's got 2mm of clearance to the wear ring(!). Seems really excessive, so I ordered a remanufactured OEM one. Maybe I'll get a fancy Solas next season.

    Thanks for the advice guys!

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