Thread: Anit-seize or Threadlocker?
03-12-2007, 09:49 AM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Beaufort, SC
Anit-seize or Threadlocker?
Putting my stuff back together.......finally and just going for the general consensus. Anti-seize or the repair manual recommended threadlocker on: Crank case bolts and the crank PTO coupler?
Crank case bolts only had anti-seize on them from the previous engine builder and the crank PTO coupler didn't have anything.
03-12-2007, 10:02 AM #2
This what I do other opinions may differ I use Blue Loctite on the Case Bolts I rarely ever use Red on anything. I know there are other types of loctite people use but I use what is readily available from the auto parts store.
I use Blue Loctite on the PTO coupler also.
Good Luck with your build.
Here is a great link to case assembly by Fercho it is for a GPR but all the same practices apply.
Last edited by OsideBill; 03-12-2007 at 10:05 AM.
03-12-2007, 10:38 AM #3
There's not much, if anything, that I would use red loctite for except maybe the flywheel bolt. These boats suffer from corrosion so badly after a couple of years that loctite isn't worth it. I just snapped a pump bolt that goes into the transom plate this weekend due to corrosion - and it had previously been assembled with antiseize. Very scary. In fact, I run all my bolts over the wire wheel on my bench grinder every time I disassemble it. I've even run a tap into the threads a few times.
03-12-2007, 10:43 AM #4
03-12-2007, 11:00 AM #5
Red Loctite horror story
Red Loctite horror story
I bought a 99 GP1200 from a guy that races Stand-Ups I hope he was a better racer than mechanic.
I was taking the intake manifold off to check the reeds it had a reed spacer plate on it so the guy had used studs along the top row of bolts and SST allen caps in all the other holes. The nuts were nylocks so they came off easy. each one of the allen caps I turned maybe a half turn and they were tight and would break. I went to the next same thing finally i said F*** it and started to just break them all one finally stripped the allen head and I could not get it out. had to pull the motor out to get to it. once on the bench I drilled the head of the bolt out and removed intake. I then spent the next hour with a torch and vise grips heating and removing broken bolts and studs what an unnecesary pain in the A** The guy had even put loctite on the hoses for the pulse lines I could not believe the insanity to all this.
also when I cleaned the holes for assembly the holes were full to the bottom with loctite he must have filled the holes then installed the the bolts.
SuperD this also explains why you did not get hardware with the reed spacer I sent you
Last edited by OsideBill; 03-12-2007 at 11:03 AM.
03-12-2007, 11:07 AM #6
I am one of dem Red loctite bastages.
03-12-2007, 11:11 AM #7
I have read of guys using locktight on the hose barbs.. yes it seals but it defeats the barb's main purpose...
03-12-2007, 11:14 AM #8
I will use the red on bolts bigger than 8mm. If you use it on anything smaller you will prbably never get it out without heat or breaking the bolt.
03-12-2007, 11:17 AM #9
you have various grades of locktight's... yellow, green ,blue, red and I think there's purple too.... there are subgroups of red for different purposes.
03-12-2007, 11:46 AM #10
Some might say thread-locking compound is for mechanics that can't assemble and torque fasteners correctly.
Not sure if I agree with that completely.
However there is some truth to it.
A mechanic must do a dry assembly to check all clearances and mating surfaces for proper fit. Clean all bolts/studs completely.
Run a thread cleaning tap/die thru all threads.
Lube and torque correctly until the fastener just starts to stretch and applies the proper tension on parts.
Now that fastener is not coming loose.
This has been my experience from doing 100+ motors. On the other end of the spectrum, I have also set up track machines that had fasteners drilled and safety wired.
There are exceptions to this no lock tite philosophy. Exhaust fasteners sometimes do seem to work their way out from the constant extreme temperature changes they must endure. In addition, wherever a catastrophic failure would occur if a fastener did come loose.
So that being said I my self do use lock tite on flywheel bolts, couplers, exhaust and any fasteners that won't have to come apart again for a long time ...hopefully. I have used lock-tite on some cases and have not used it on other engine cases. Either way
Never had a case leak or a case bolt fall out.
Where case sealant is used a little always gets on the bolt when assembling. I know, I know, three bond is a sealant.
A little side note, I have seen a massive case leak where a mechanic used lots of lock-tite and three bond sealant…a case of lock-tie and three bond was not enough to stop a vacuum leak when cases are not assembled together properly.
This brings up another aspect of using a thread-locking compound.
Disassembly/reassembly of Lock-Tighted parts.
You must clean the threads completely with a wire wheel and or thread cleaning tap/die to get rid of the old thread-locking compound completely.
If you don't do this then not all the torque wrenches in the world will get you to the proper torque and bottles of lock-tite won't stop improperly torque parts from leaking and or failure...but the bolts won't fall out
If you do use lock tite the fasteners must be dry and free of oil grease contaminants or there is a good chance it won’t adhere to the fasteners at all or provide a less than rated locking.
This takes some attention to detail when assembling a motor with well-oiled bearings and moving parts. I like all my moving parts to be very well lubed to avoid pemature wear from a dry start.
Bottom line is if you don't feel comfortable,
Do exactly what the shop manual says. It is written for a wide range of mechanics. You can't go wrong with it.
Last edited by allcool; 03-12-2007 at 11:49 AM.
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