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  1. #1
    bscpaint's Avatar
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    do you think this fuel pressure gauge will work or did i just ruin my fuel rail

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ID:	311733The rail end cap was thin but it still tapped 2 threads into it and its holding pressure. I used locktite on the threads and 2 part epoxy for extra strength on the 90 fitting touched the rail.


  2. #2

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    I would not run it this way. The movement of the PWC will cause force on the thin rail by the weight of the gauge, and if it comes off, major issues with gas in the hull. At best I would remove it and just put a plug there. I would purchase a new rail.


  3. #3
    bscpaint's Avatar
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    What if I welded the fitting there permanently?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bscpaint View Post
    What if I welded the fitting there permanently?

    Yellow93 will chime in hopefully but he runs a billet fuel rail made by Seadoo ''danny'' on here that would be a better option

  5. #5
    big john's Avatar
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    looseboltsrob had AN fittings welded on his rail to make it a flow through, before you buy a new one, you better look at the price....... you'll be in a for a shock
    Last edited by big john; 08-28-2013 at 07:45 PM.

  6. #6
    bscpaint's Avatar
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    I would have a fitting welded on before I bought one of those 250.00 ones, they look nice but that's money I can use elsewhere on the ski

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithg1964 View Post
    I would not run it this way. The movement of the PWC will cause force on the thin rail by the weight of the gauge, and if it comes off, major issues with gas in the hull. At best I would remove it and just put a plug there. I would purchase a new rail.
    that's a + 1000 actually.

    better off teeing the fuel line from the pump and going with a proper setup. You can get a solid brass adapter with the correct thread for either mechanical or electric pressure for about $30


    way too dangerous to risk a leak, even with limited ignition possibilities, as soon as you realized it blew out, no way you'd try an engine start..so start paddling to shore.

  8. +1 by:


  9. #8
    305coco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bscpaint View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0368.jpg 
Views:	154 
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ID:	311733The rail end cap was thin but it still tapped 2 threads into it and its holding pressure. I used locktite on the threads and 2 part epoxy for extra strength on the 90 fitting touched the rail.
    i dont think its a good idea because of the fact that the ski is gonna be bouncing around and the weight of the gauge moving around may cause a leak. you can buy a SS bung and weld it somewhere around the middle of the rail facing up and mount the gauge there.

    Quote Originally Posted by big john View Post
    looseboltsrob had AN fittings welded on his rail to make it a flow through, before you buy a new one, you better look at the price....... you'll be in a for a shock
    +1 i did mine like that too, welded a stainless 3/8 barb to the back of the rail to make it a flow thru style rail.
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  10. #9
    Yellow93's Avatar
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    I wouldn't trust that, as has been stated there is a LOT of vibration there. I would splice the line before the rail and install your gauge there, thats how Enforcer did it on his ski. If you PM him I'm sure he will take a pic for you... either that or weld up a fitting like Coco did.

  11. #10
    bscpaint's Avatar
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    I think I'm going to go with the an fitting welded on the end to make it safe. It seems secure the way it is now so if I have an actual welded fitting ill know its held in tight. Maybe I can even make up a bracket to hold it in place better ill take it off and start from scratch in the morning.

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