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  1. #1

    2001 polaris virage tx

    i recently had someone give me a 2001 polaris virage tx. it has been to a few professional shops for a cutting off issue after 15-20 minutes of wide open throttle. after having the carbs rebuilt, and even had a cylinder and piston replaced, the ski still has the same symptoms. now that it is mine--i took off oil injection and have been premixing. cutting off problem still exists. it feels more like the engine was locking up after it felt like it had run out of gas. we took the carbs off again and still found nothing wrong. we pulled a compression check only to find the center cylinder low. the piston had chunks missing around outer edges down to the first ring grove. the top of the piston looks to have a valley like groove dug straight up the center about an inch wide and an eighth inch deep in some spots. the original diagnosis pointed to carbs because we found center screen stopped up partially. now i am wondering if we don't have a detonation problem? twisted crankshaft? i have ridden other jet skis before that seem to have a crisp zing to the throttle. this one seems to have some vibration that goes away at higher rpms--but that is when the shutting off/locking up issue starts to happen. i can ride this thing all day without a problem if you don't hold throttle wide open for any extended amount of time. when it's cold--it seems to have a lot more take off power and top end. after riding for 20 or 30 minutes--you can start to tell some minor performance issues around half throttle--a slight dead spot at half throttle going into full throttle. i don't want to continue running ski without fixing the root of the problem. what is the best way to check crank shaft? if we do have a crank index issue--is there someone out there with a good reputation to fix the issue? i live in columbus, georgia where no one seems to know how to fix a polaris! when you call and tell a repair shop that you have a polaris--they just chuckle a little bit and tell you good luck--they don't work on them.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Pre-mixing the oil into the fuel can cause a lubrication issue IF the carburetor is not delivering enough fuel. Less fuel means less oil. What oil ratio are you mixing? What oil?

    Please post some photos of the damaged piston, and the cylinder walls.

    When the cylinder was first rebuilt, was the piston to cylinder clearance verified? What piston brand, size? Was the CEN cylinder the problem the first time too?

    Were the carburetors fully rebuilt, using genuine OEM rebuild parts?

    Fuel filter replaced with new OEM?

    Are the original gray Tempo fuel hoses still installed?

    Original fuel selector valve?

    What octane fuel are you using? Specification is 89 octane these days, minimum.

    Crankshaft phase can be checked. Use a degree wheel or markings on the engine PTO coupler. 120 degrees between each piston at TDC.

    What RPM was this engine running at wide open on the water, sustained?

    Have you inspected inside the thermostat housing? Checked the water inlet screen inside the jet pump exit nozzle?

    Any warnings or messages on the MFI display?

    Where are you located?

  3. #3
    i will post some pics by tomorrow. i am mixing 50:1 using premium quicksilver 2 cycle oil--blue in color. cylinder std,piston std and carb parts all oem. as far as check for cylinder clearance? it was all standard size and piston moved smoothly through cylinder with out rings--right out of the package checked as if we would any other rebuild. ski did NOT have a filter-so we installed one. center cylinder problem the whole time. i went through all the mighty vac checks from the manual--to include pop off pressure checks. the only confusing thing i have NOT been able to find is the return line orphus. original tempo lines still on ski. tried all 3 octanes--with no difference. i think 6800 rpms was max--and yes-will hold for about 15 minutes. the only thing that seemed to help was adding a couple ounces of marvel mystery iol and a couple ounces of sea foam to the fuel mix. leeves a little bleack residue on back side of ski. original fuel sector valve. no warning message. run with and without thermostat with no difference. have not found inlet screen inside jet pump exit nozzle? give me a little help here--only a good car tech/bike tech. this is 1st jet ski project. location: columbus, ga.

  4. #4
    just found the screen in the jet pump housing--it is clean and free of debris.

  5. #5
    columbus, georgia USA

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a2z View Post
    i will post some pics by tomorrow. i am mixing 50:1 using premium quicksilver 2 cycle oil--blue in color.

    cylinder std,piston std and carb parts all oem. as far as check for cylinder clearance? it was all standard size and piston moved smoothly through cylinder with out rings--right out of the package checked as if we would any other rebuild.

    ski did NOT have a filter-so we installed one.

    center cylinder problem the whole time.

    i went through all the mighty vac checks from the manual--to include pop off pressure checks. the only confusing thing i have NOT been able to find is the return line orphus.

    original tempo lines still on ski.

    tried all 3 octanes--with no difference. i think 6800 rpms was max--and yes-will hold for about 15 minutes. the only thing that seemed to help was adding a couple ounces of marvel mystery iol and a couple ounces of sea foam to the fuel mix. leeves a little bleack residue on back side of ski.

    original fuel sector valve. no warning message. run with and without thermostat with no difference.

    have not found inlet screen inside jet pump exit nozzle? give me a little help here--only a good car tech/bike tech. this is 1st jet ski project. location: columbus, ga.
    What kind of fuel filter? OEM?

    See my signature links regarding the Tempo fuel hoses. They tend to internally degrade and release goo that clogs up the carburetors. I suggest replacing all fuel hoses and cleaning/rebuilding all the carburetors again. When you did the rebuild did you also rebuild the integrated fuel pumps on front and rear carbs?

    Sometimes the original fuel selector valves will leak air into the fuel system when they get old. Air bubbles in the fuel supply reduce fuel pressure and fuel delivery into the carbs, not good. Fuel system is under mild suction from tank to carb fuel pumps.

    Also check or replace the fuel tank vacuum release check valve. As the engine burns fuel the fuel tank needs fresh air to prevent a partial vacuum from occurring inside the fuel tank. If the venting check valve is stuck closed then the engine will run lean as the fuel system devlops negative pressure. If this happens while riding you can detect it by removing the fuel filler cap. If there is a vacuum inside the tank, you will feel it when you remove the gas cap.
    Last edited by K447; 08-29-2013 at 04:29 PM.

  7. #7
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    The fuel filter on these machines is inside the water separator. No need to add one.

  8. #8
    i put the spare mercury in line filter i had for my boat. thanks for the info about the water separator. i don't guess the extra filter will hurt--so i will leave it. i am going to take the advice and get ALL NEW OEM carb parts for all three carbs. i would however, i would like to put something to rest thati ran into while reading the manual. two different places, the manual says in chapter 4--carb section--that a missing return line orffice will cause a lean condition. i can't find a part number or anything that talks about a return line orffice. does anyone know where this thing is located or what it looks like? keep in mind--3 other people worked on this ski before i got her--something that may have been left out at some point??

  9. #9
    I still wouldn't run that extra filter. I don't know what type of fuel system your boat has so I'm not telling you it will not work, but it may not. These ski's draw a bunch of fuel at wide open throttle and they rely on the fuel pump at the carbs and the vacuum/pressure relief valve to get it. I just went through this with mine. I installed a local filter (supposed to be high flow) and it could not keep up. It's best to just make sure all of your oem fuel stuff is in good shape. Hopefully someone will confirm, but I don't think your machine has a return line restrictor. My manual talks about them too, but my machine was not designed with one.

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