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  1. #1
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Question 1997 Polaris SLT700 Project

    Hey guys!

    New member here. Looking forward to participating on the forums. Please don't expect me to be a "post once then leave" type of guy. No newb to forums here. I've actually been reading the forums for quite a while now while doing research for my project. Figured I'd finally post something!


    At the beginning of the summer I purchased a used 1997 Polaris SLT700 for $300 on Craigslist. I was told that everything was there except for a piston which was taken out by the previous owner for another SLT700. It took me a while, but I've finally had the time to start tearing into it and figure out what I've gotten myself into with this project. I have experience working on boats, cars, trucks, engines, so I know my way around the basics. I recently completed a complete tear-down/rebuild on a 10 hp Techumseh engine for a go-kart project that I'll probably never finish which was a great learning experience as far as engines go... best way to learn is on a simple one cylinder engine!

    When I got into my SLT700, the piston was of course gone as expected. I ordered a replacement from Ebay and was able to install it and put everything back together. The wiring was a MESS but after many hours reading around on your forum, I think I've got everything back together correctly, at least enough to try and get it working. Keep in mind that my intentions for this PWC project are to at least evaluate what I've got, get it running enough for one test run on the water, and then spend the winter completely rebuilding/restoring it.

    I replaced both spark plugs with brand new ones verified by the factory service manual so kindly provided by another user on this site. I've got a new battery hooked up. So far, I can get spark out of both plugs. I can also get the engine to turn over, very well. Cranks like a champ! The fuel tank was full of crap so I cleaned it out very well (using a shop vac) and put in five gallons of fresh premium. Then I realized that all of the fuel lines are probably shot, so I pulled them all out. Let me insert here that when I was replacing the piston, the previous owner had taken out the carb so when I put it back in I wasn't sure of the correct fuel line hookup to the tank anyway.

    So, with spark from both plugs, engine cranking over extremely well, a fully charged battery, and a generous squirt of starting fluid into each carb, I figured I would at least get a cough and a sputter. Nothing. Engine still cranks over very well of course, but no indication of a fire. I even tried removing both plugs, spraying some starting fluid, and replacing the plugs, but nothing. I also read on here about removing the spark plug boots, cutting off a little bit of the wire, and then re-installing the boots for a better spark. Did that as well.

    I've reached the extent of my knowledge and am stumped even after trying to search for solutions online. Could you guys please provide some insight on what I should be troubleshooting next? Thanks a ton in advance!

    Some pics:

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  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Welcome! You've probably already found this... Http://PolarisPWCknowledge.shorturl.com

    What are your compression numbers?
    Have you checked spark with the plugs installed on a spark tester?
    What kind of battery are you running? You must have a strong battery so the cranking voltage doesn't drop too low.....
    Do you have the original or updated ignition?

  3. #3
    Noticed you said your a new member to greenhulk. I joined today and I can't find out how to start my own thread just wondering if you have to be a member for a certain time ?????

  4. #4
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Welcome! You've probably already found this... Http://PolarisPWCknowledge.shorturl.com

    What are your compression numbers?
    Have you checked spark with the plugs installed on a spark tester?
    What kind of battery are you running? You must have a strong battery so the cranking voltage doesn't drop too low.....
    Do you have the original or updated ignition?
    Oh yeah, VERY familiar with that web site - has helped a ton so far!

    I have not checked the compression. I know of the procedure, have watched it done, but never performed it myself. Where can I get my hands on a test kit? Rent one from AutoZone or a similar store? Same thing with the spark tester - never used one. Where can I get one of those?

    I am eventually going to buy an EverStart AGM battery (http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16782698) but until then I've got a newer, fully charged "Lawn & Garden" Tractor battery that has 230 CCA (http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16795214). This is being used strictly for troubleshooting purposes - it will not be used out on the water. Voltage is reading high at the battery (12.5+), verified with a multimeter. I have noticed that it reads a slightly higher voltage on the MFD - should I be concerned about that?

    I'm pretty sure that I have the original ignition, but I will re-verify today. If I'm still getting spark, does this matter? Do I really need to upgrade right now? This is something I will definitely do during the rebuild/restore but I would like to just get it running first.

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    You can rent one from AutoZone or similar, but a simple screw in type is really not that expensive. You should make it a tool box item. Same with the spark tester, less than $20 for one. Get the sealed kind.

    Need to check spark with the plugs in, as the increase compression when they are both installed will create additional load on the battery. You need to check voltage at the Red Purple in the ebox, not at the battery for proper cranking voltage which I believe needs to be well above 10.6v (domestic people please correct me) while cranking.

    Your MFD will typically read higher than the meter, nothing to be concerned about.

    You may not need to upgrade now. Keep in mind these motors are basically as simple as compression, fuel, spark. If you have all three, the magic should happen..... But it will likely eventually fail. May want to get the update kit on your radar now as they are hard to come by. Jump on one when you see the opportunity...

    And try to stay away from starter fluid. A small amount of premix/gas down the carb throats will be plenty to get the ski to fire. Starter fluid does not contain any lubricants and can actually strip the oil from your crank if you use too much......

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt h View Post
    Noticed you said your a new member to greenhulk. I joined today and I can't find out how to start my own thread just wondering if you have to be a member for a certain time ?????
    Click on the forum button, then on one of the specific Polaris Forums to post a new thread. You can't do it from the "What's New" section.

    And Welcome!!

  7. #7
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    Don't buy the Neverstart battery. Go to an Auto Zone and get their Duralast Gold AGM battery. Its a Deka made battery and priced at 86 bucks. Great deal on a much better battery!!!!

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    I am eventually going to buy an EverStart AGM battery
    These are also NON-SEALED where you must add the acid to the cells to energize. The Battery BryanP mentioned is not only a better price, but a fully sealed, pre-charged, ready to go tru AGM battery. Get one and never look back!!!! http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=350080_0_0_

  9. #9
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    You can rent one from AutoZone or similar, but a simple screw in type is really not that expensive. You should make it a tool box item. Same with the spark tester, less than $20 for one. Get the sealed kind.
    What do you mean by the sealed kind? Found these online at my local AutoZone; which one do you recommend?

    Actron/Compression tester kit
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=487835_0_0_

    OEM/Compression Tester Gauge Set
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=424906_0_0_



    Great Neck/Adjustable ignition spark tester
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=10257_0_0_

    Great Neck/Spark plug wire tester
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=10255_0_0_

    OEM/In line ignition spark tester
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=900800_0_0_

  10. #10
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Don't buy the Neverstart battery. Go to an Auto Zone and get their Duralast Gold AGM battery. Its a Deka made battery and priced at 86 bucks. Great deal on a much better battery!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    I am eventually going to buy an EverStart AGM battery
    These are also NON-SEALED where you must add the acid to the cells to energize. The Battery BryanP mentioned is not only a better price, but a fully sealed, pre-charged, ready to go tru AGM battery. Get one and never look back!!!! http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=350080_0_0_
    Thanks for the tips! Will stay away from the Neverstarts...

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