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  1. #1

    2001 Polaris Genesis i - Spark on 1 of 3 cylinders

    Just bought this ski cheap off craigslist. I should have done my research first since apparently these things are a bear to work on and find parts for. Anyway, I'm up to the challenge. I have the service manual and I've gone through most of the wiring and replaced any corroded terminals. I had the ski idling and running great in the driveway a few weeks ago. Now I can't get it started and have come to find that I am only getting spark on 1 cylinder (this model has 3 cylinders, the one at the rear of the ski is getting spark). When I disconnect the TPS, I was getting fire on the forward-most cylinder also, but the following day i tried and now still only getting spark on the 1. The MFI is dead(corroded and completely shot), but is still connected----I'm not sure how much this can affect anything. I find it odd that a few weeks ago i had it idling and running great(in driveway w/ water running through).

    I have moved the "known good" ignition coil to the other cylinders, and still no luck. In the service manual, it suggests that when "spark on some cylinders", check CPS. I checked and it checks out OK, although it has some minor scratches on it and there was some debris that needed to be removed. This is where I am at. Also, I've checked voltage on red/white wires and shows 20V while cranking (which is normal from what i've read). Any idea where to proceed from here? Thanks, this is my first post...


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Unplug the MFI display connector, behind the display. You can then use a single wire jumper in the wire harness connector to bypass the security feature and start the engine. That way we can be sure the display is not messing anything up.

    See the MFD section from my signature links for the details.

    Debris on the CPS sensor often indicates damage to the flywheel magnets and/or stator. You may need to remove the flywheel cover and flywheel and inspect inside the flywheel.

    If your engine was actually starting, that would typically indicate that the injector voltage is strong enough (over 20 volts while cranking). Since it is not starting by itself, verify that injector voltage is indeed over 20 volts, typically around 23 volts. This measurement must be done with all injectors plugged in, measuring from White/Red wire to engine ground.

    Which spark plugs are installed? The wrong spark plugs can cause issues, but usually would not kill spark entirely.

    I presume you have ohm checked the spark plug wires and the coils.

    What terminals were corroded and replaced?

  3. #3
    I've tried the jumper on the MFI before, but had a scrap piece of 14-16 gauge wire....i need to get the proper copper wire. When I removed the CPS, the first thing I thought when I saw the debris was "uh oh, this can't be good". I'll try to diagnose before resorting to pulling off the flywheel cover....would you suggest pulling the engine to remove the flywheel cover for inspection?

    OEM spark plugs are brand new and the correct.

    I replaced some of the terminals in the electrical box that were visually corroded. Panel wasn't corroded, just some of the female wire terminals. All connections are now clean and tight.

    I measured voltage on the red/white wire of injectors while cranking (all are still connected). I got a reading of about 8V on all injectors. Sounds like this could be an issue...what would cause? I have a brand new car battery attached to the ski(please dont criticize) and am getting ~12-14V solid input....fully charged. Could this possibly affect things? This is the same battery that it ran on recently.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussinole View Post
    I've tried the jumper on the MFI before, but had a scrap piece of 14-16 gauge wire....i need to get the proper copper wire. When I removed the CPS, the first thing I thought when I saw the debris was "uh oh, this can't be good". I'll try to diagnose before resorting to pulling off the flywheel cover....would you suggest pulling the engine to remove the flywheel cover for inspection?

    OEM spark plugs are brand new and the correct.

    I replaced some of the terminals in the electrical box that were visually corroded. Panel wasn't corroded, just some of the female wire terminals. All connections are now clean and tight.

    I measured voltage on the red/white wire of injectors while cranking (all are still connected). I got a reading of about 8V on all injectors. Sounds like this could be an issue...what would cause?

    I have a brand new car battery attached to the ski(please dont criticize) and am getting ~12-14V solid input....fully charged. Could this possibly affect things? This is the same battery that it ran on recently.
    Well, that injector voltage is way too low.

    My expectation is that the EMM itself needs repair, but it is probably worth the effort to inspect the flywheel if you want to minimize the chances of sending the EMM to DFI and having them tell you it is good.

    Start by ohm checking the stator coils, including to ground (which should be infinite, no connection)
    Then check the AC voltage from each of the five coils while cranking.

    While it is possible to work on the flywheel with the engine in the hull, it is always easier to do so with the engine removed. The first time always takes longer, but once you know how it is done, it actually is fairly straightforward to do.

    Tips:
    The jet pump comes off first, plus the drive shaft.
    Release the air pressure under the gas cap before removing the fuel injectors as a set. The hoses can all stay connected, just be gentle and lay them on a towel off to the side.
    You can use a clean golf tee to plug the oil hose from the oil tank when you remove it from the oil pump. Have rags handy to catch any oil drippings.
    Take photos and notes of where each bolt, nut and part came from.
    I use many labelled baggies, and arrange them roughly in order of removal.


  5. #5
    Also, I have already ohm checked the spark plug wires and the coils. Everything is within specification.

  6. #6
    It just seems so weird that it was running great a few weeks ago. Do you think there could be some damage to the flywheel/stator that could cause this? I know EMM repair can be a bit pricey and as some point I need to decide whether it's worth the investment or not.

  7. #7
    Engine is out and flywheel housing is off. Do i have to buy the flywheel puller or is there another way to get it off... If i have to buy one, where would you recommend? Also, there is significant moister and debris in the housing... stator will most definitely need to be replaced. Thanks!

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussinole View Post
    Engine is out and flywheel housing is off. Do i have to buy the flywheel puller or is there another way to get it off... If i have to buy one, where would you recommend? Also, there is significant moister and debris in the housing... stator will most definitely need to be replaced. Thanks!
    A good quality puller makes the job easier, for sure. It is easy to bend a cheap puller or strip the bolt threads.

    Perhaps you can borrow or rent one from your local auto-parts store. Sometimes a harmonic balancer puller will do. It must be the type that allows three bolts into the face of the flywheel, then tighten the center bolt to apply tension. Do not tighten the bolts father than enough to just reach through the flywheel thickness, plus a couple more turns. The stator is right behind he flywheel, turn the bolts in too far and the stator will be damaged.

    Loosen the large flywheel nut but leave it in place, just a few turns out from snug. When the flywheel lets go there can be some violence and the nut keeps it from flying across the room!

    It can take serious force to release the flywheel as the shaft has a taper and Loctite would have been applied to the shaft.

    In some cases even with heavy tension on the puller it might need a judicious application of heat to the flywheel center area around the shaft (but don't heat the shaft itself). Heat breaks down the Loctite and expands the flywheel metal allowing it to release its grip on the tapered shaft.

    There is a crank shaft rubber seal behind the flywheel. Too much heat will melt the seal. Replacing that seal requires removing the entire flywheel housing.

    Do not loose the woodruff key when removing the flywheel.

  9. #9
    Thanks for your advice! I rented a harmonic balancer from local autoparts store and it came right off w/o heat. Attached are some pictures of the disaster that lay behind the flywheel. One of the magnets has come off the flywheel and completely shredded apart and caused significant damage to the stator(in my opinion). My first question is: Do you think this would definitely cause the no-spark on 2 cylinders problem i'm having? Next question is: What needs to be done from here. I think this is the point when i pull out my wallet and start doing some shopping. I've read some posts on stator repair and 12 magnet flywheels that are better. My opinion is the stator is too far-gone for repair, but then again, i'm not an expert. I trust your opinion. Again, thanks for your help. I'm excited to undertake this, and hopefully be back up and running soon!Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    That stator and flywheel are not repairable. Well, a stator rebuild service could fix it, but just getting another stator is probably similar cost.

    Certainly the EMM cannot work properly with the stator and flywheel that badly damaged.

    Time for a new or good used stator and flywheel. Yes, the 12 magnet flywheel is better, if you can find one. A six magnet flywheel would also work of course, just need to find a good one.

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