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  1. #1

    Engine / Drive Locked Up

    So I purchased a 1995 SL 750 for $300. Replaced all fuel lines, triple outlet fuel pump, fuel selector, NGK BRP7ES plugs, fuel and oil filters, and battery. Took it out for the first time and it took a bit, but it started and ran great. Only thing that didn't work was trim, kill switch, and the MFD didn't work (Need to look into electrical, but I can do that later). So it ran for a good 3 hours without a hiccup all day. Towards the end of the day it shut off random. I went to start it again and it turn over, would sputter for a but, then die. It did that about 3 times, then finally it just locked up. It wasn't able to crank over at all. I tore it all apart and the middle cylinder had a milky kinda look down the sides of the piston. Everything else looked fine as far as the pistons, but I cannot turn the crankshaft over to see if there is anything beneath the pistons causing the crank to not turn. I tried taking a wrench to the coupler to try and turn it, but it wont budge at all. Any thoughts as to what it might be? could the bendix be locked up causing it to not move? I looked at the prop shaft and it looked fine.

    Thanks for the help in advance!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Remove the jet pump and drive shaft. That will tell you if the engine or the jet pump is the problem.

  3. #3
    Is there a write up on this site for it? I know you know the site really well

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcman989 View Post
    Is there a write up on this site for it? I know you know the site really well
    See the Jet Pump section from my signature links.

  5. #5
    Thanks for the help. Hopefully I can get that off tonight. Any thought as to what the milky fluid was down the sides of the piston? It is not on the top in the actual combustion camber, but underneath the rings.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcman989 View Post
    ... Any thought as to what the milky fluid was down the sides of the piston? It is not on the top in the actual combustion camber, but underneath the rings.
    Often the presence of water causes the oil to look milky colored. Water inside the engine is never a good thing.

  7. #7
    Pump is out and it is still locked up.

  8. #8
    Also if I remove the engine and cradle, but leave the shims in place do I need to realign it?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcman989 View Post
    Also if I remove the engine and cradle, but leave the shims in place do I need to realign it?
    Depends. Sometimes it nicely drops right back in as it was before. Sometimes it looks like it did, but there is enough play in the mounts that it ends up not being quite the same as before.

    And sometimes the hull has changed shape somewhat during the long passage of time between the original factory assembly and now, so even if the engine did drop right back in it might not actually be well aligned with the jet pump.

    If you can find a loaner alignment tool, that tells the true story. If not, many guys get away with just dropping it back in.

    Do what you can to scribe and mark the original positions so that you have a fighting chance of knowing when it is back as it was.

  10. #10
    I am currently having the same problem with my SLTX and am also wondering if I have a seized crankshaft or if there could be something else causing it not to turn. It will crank over barely with the starter but I dont want to do that anymore and risk shredding the starter or bendix. So now the motor is pulled and all the cylinders are off, what next?

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