Thread: 2001 Yamaha 1200 SUV Cavitation
09-05-2013, 10:33 PM #1
2001 Yamaha 1200 SUV Cavitation
Okay, I'm a newbie to this forum, I'm sure this may have been talked about, but I can't find anything specific.
I have a Freshwater 2001 SUV 1200, I'm third owner.
The second owner told me it had a cavitation issue and he just wiggled the back end and it came out of it. The second owner also told me he took it to a shop and they flat out told him that it needed a new impellor. So he had them replace it ($498.00) and then they tested it in a sand pit lake, and proclaimed it "Fixed, cavitation free". The second owner did not ride it after the shop "Fixed it", so he took their word for it.
Well, first day I had it I found out it was not fixed....
So in doing research to cure the problem, I have come up with the following options...
1. New impellor (supposedly this has been done)
2. New Impellor housing
3. New intake grate (did this, helped a little, but cavitation still present under a load.)
4. New Anti-cavitation cone (purchased one, but since changing the grate didn't make diff, I'm skeptical)
5. Seal the Pump shoe (can I just use heavy duty silicone, or should I use epoxy, like JB weld)
So from what I have been reading those are pretty much my best options. I would like to explore the "cheaper" options first like sealing the pump shoe.
Next question, what kind of clearance should there be between the impellor and the housing. The impellor looks really great, I cannot imagine the issue is the impellor which leads me to think the shop changed the impellor, but left the stock housing or they put on the wrong size impellor?
So any thoughts, suggestions ideas would be appreciated.
This is my first "watercraft"...I'm a gearhead, but usually my toys have wheels....
09-05-2013, 10:51 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
I'm also a watercraft newbie, but this site helps a lot.
I was having severe cavitation on my GP800R. Sealing the pump shoe made it run like a whole new boat. I'm pretty sure that this is seriously the best thing you can do for cavitation.
The GP800 shop manual calls for something like .05mm of clearance between impeller and wear ring. They say that if this clearance is too big it can cause cavitation as well. Mine was 1.5 - 2mm, so I swapped it for a new impeller and plastic wear ring. Haven't tested it yet.
09-06-2013, 05:19 PM #3
Thanks for the reply....
Now i just gotta figure out what to use....
09-06-2013, 06:47 PM #4
Now mater what sealing the shoe is a must on all boats. Use 3M 5200 and a clamp light for heat. Now check your clearance. Hammer5312 is on the right track. Personally I would stay away from the plastic rings but thats just me.
09-08-2013, 08:31 AM #5
I dont' know anything about a 2001 SUV, but I do have experience with sealing the pump shoe housing on a 2001 XLT 1200. I had cavatation issues earlier this year and purchased a pump shoe seal kit and a new intake grate from eBay. The cavities in the pump shoe housing on the XLT were so large (some as big as or larger than a coffee MUG) that in MHO it would take a lot of epoxy/silicone to fill those cavities (= $$$$$$$). And it would take a long time for the stuff to dry. It was much easier to fit one of the "plugs" from the kit into the cavities, with a little bit of quick-cure 3M 5200 (which is somewhat expensive) than it would be to try and fill the cavities with a lot of epoxy or slilicone or other stuff.
The new intake grate I installed had a small cavity which did not come with a plug. I bought $10 worth of epoxy at Hobby Lobby and it took the whole amount to fill the one small cavity. In MHO it would have cost a whole lot more had I tried to fill the large cavities in the pump shoe housing with epoxy or silicone than with the plugs furnished in the pump seal kit. And, of course, it would take a considerable length of time for that much epoxy/silicone to dry. The pump shoe housing was ready to reinstall as soon as the plugs were stuck in it, with only a minimal amout of time devoted to curing.
After installing the pump shoe seal kit, the cavatation problems with my XLT were eliminated. I considered it to be $200 well spent
($100 = new intake grate + $70 = pump shoe seal kit + $30 big tube of 3M 5200). A big plus was that I was able to do the work myself, as there were only 8 bolts holding the intake grate and the pump shoe housing on the ski. Be careful in removing the bolts, as a broken bolt or spun "nut" can be a big PITA. Be sure to torque the bolts to the proper ft. lbs. upon reinstallation.
Good luck on eliminating your cavatation, and let us know how your efforts pan out.
former sea doo owner, will never own one again
09-09-2013, 02:04 PM #6
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
Same issue on my SUV. New Wear Ring and Prop fixed the issue, also added a Cone because I had one laying around. I went aftermarket on the prop with a Solas Concord 12/19. These are big heavy skis so it takes alot to get them out of the water. Also my shoe is unsealed and the ski comes out of the water great.
Dig up some of OSIDE Bills posts on his SUV I specd' mine after his since he had already went through the trials of this issue.
09-09-2013, 05:20 PM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
Besides, the plastic is Delrin, which is what motorcycle frame sliders are made of. I've got a set that's survived 3 high speed crashes, while steel bar ends and swingarm spools grind down and break off immediately. It's seriously impact/abrasion/crush resistant stuff.
That's just my reasoning tho. I could be dead wrong. We'll see how it fares over the next few rides.
09-09-2013, 05:30 PM #8
09-26-2013, 10:04 PM #9
09-26-2013, 11:53 PM #10
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