Thread: Oil Change Tips
09-05-2013, 10:55 PM #1
Oil Change Tips
After doing my oil changes, fogging, and flushing yesterday, I added the following tips to my blog post at:
- Before winterizing, pour your fuel stabilizer into a partially full tank, tow your ski(s) to a nearby gas station and fill your tank to the very top with premium (91+), then go home to winterize. This will allow the stabilizer to slosh around and mix on the drive before running the treated fuel through the engine during the oil warm-up step.
- Make sure the boats are level when checking the oil level. If you don't have a level handy, use one of the free level apps on your iPhone.
- Have a few rags handy before you start. They're good for wiping the dipstick, setting down spark plugs on your deck, etc.
- Use a pair of gloves (I like the Mechanix Fast Fits) when removing the oil filter cover. If you did things right and warmed up the engine before removing the oil, the cap will be a bit warm, and so will things around it that are easy to bump with your hand.
- If the oil cover won't come off easily after removing the retaining bolt, use a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry the inside lip, just until it moves slightly. Then use your (gloved) hand to wiggle it free.
- Have a plastic or Zip-lock bag handy to put your old oil filter in. Don't just throw it in the trash. Many auto parts stores will now accept them for recycling, along with the oil you removed from your boats.
- Make sure you gently press the new oil filter down into place in the bottom of the canister before re-installing the cap.
- If you do a compression test, tighten the adapter onto your testing tool very tightly, and then only screw it into the spark plug hole barely hand tight. Otherwise, you may get the adapter stuck in the spark plug hole (ask me how I know).
- Since I'm flushing RV anti-freeze through more than one boat, I dumped four gallons of it into a 5 gallon bucket, and then positioned the bucket under the pump assembly. Using a small pump with garden hoses attached to each side, I put the "from" hose in the bucket and the "to" hose into the inlet on the boat. I then ran the pump until a little less than half the anti-freeze was left in the bucket, then shut the pump off. Most of the anti-freeze drained back into the bucket, and then I repeated the process on the other boat. I could saved most of the anti-freeze for next year, but it's so cheap that I just dumped it rather than have it take up space in the garage.
- Don't forget about your trailer! This is a good time to check and re-pack your wheel bearings if needed, or at least pump some grease into your Bearing Buddies. Check and repair any trailer light wiring problems. Checking your tire pressure is never a dumb idea, either. Be sure to re-check pressure before moving your trailer in the spring.
I ended up using Amsoil WCF (3 quarts per boat), and while I was picking it up I figured I'd try out their "ASTCN-EA" fuel stabilizer, their "FOG" fogging spray, and their "AMP" metal protecting spray lube. That spray lube rocks hard, and I'm probably gonna need another can soon.
Any other tips are welcome!
09-05-2013, 10:57 PM #2
09-05-2013, 10:58 PM #3
09-06-2013, 08:13 AM #4
09-06-2013, 09:16 AM #5
Thanks for the insight Steve, from your first oil change yourself. Glad you were the Ginnie Pig for me so I can do it myself right the first time.
Oh one question I do have that I didn't quite understand. Are you hooking up your water intake hose and just putting the other end inside the bucket of the antifreeze? Does it suck it up or do you have to have it higher so it feeds down into it via gravity?
09-06-2013, 09:55 AM #6
I'm using a small Simer brand utility pump (see the blog post for a link to the exact model). I bought it online for pretty cheap. I use it primarily for speeding up the flushing process on my hot water heaters twice a year (three houses and six heaters... it comes in handy). Figured it would also work great for the Sea Doos, and it really does!
09-06-2013, 10:02 AM #7
A pump up weed sprayer works well also. Add some tubing and a fitting and you're good to go.
09-06-2013, 10:44 AM #8
I change 2qts every 6 months. Keeps it cleaner and basically guarantees you change the 4qts every year instead of the 3ish you get in one change.
09-06-2013, 11:05 AM #9
The joy's of living in Florida eh? Wish it was that warm here year long...
Our "summer riding months" in Northern Ontario... are maybe 4 if you're lucky.
Example... it's Sept 6th and the weather dropped to +5oC last night. :P
09-06-2013, 11:10 AM #10
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