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Thread: 2002 Genesis

  1. #1

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    2002 Genesis

    Hey guys, need a little guidance.

    If you remember, I bought this ski used, and have had trouble from day one.
    I sent the ECM out for repair, and they found some issues and fixed it. After a few hours, the ski started to act up again, and would not pull a load.
    I sent the ECM back, and they said they could find nothing wrong, but would re-do the connections they did the first time.

    Got the ski out again a few days ago, and it started and ran great. We pulled a wake board and spotter, ran great.
    Later that afternoon, it started to cut out at high speed. Wife said she saw the low oil warning, but we had a half tank.

    Next morning, ran great again.

    Ran the diagnostics (LED Light) today, and got four codes. 41, 43, 47, and 49.
    All are about the water and air temps.

    We never saw a water temp warning, and i'm not sure what a "S.L.O.W" would sound or feel like anyway.
    Codes maybe old, don't know.

    Checked both air and water sensors, and both check out OK (the air has been damaged by the spark arrester cover, but checked OK).
    Cooling lines and pop off are all clear.

    We did have outside temps around 105, and water temps around 82 degs.

    Could the hot day and warm water be setting off these codes?
    What does the ski feel like when it goes into "SLOW"?
    Any ideas would be great.

    Thanks
    Bob


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    SLOW mode means the engine is RPM limited. Around 4500 or 3500RPM, I forget which. When SLOW mode is active and you squeeze the throttle, the engine will begin to rev up as normal then begin to miss and stutter, with the RPM staying close the the limiter number. It just sounds rough and seems quite low on power.

    It just will not go any faster. Typically the red lamp would be flashing and some warning message would appear. On the display.

    Have you confirmed that the water flow through the EMM is actually good? If the EMM does not have enough cooling water flow it will cook itself. This may not show any visual warnings.

    The Low Oil indication is probably an artifact of the long skinny oil tank. When oil level gets down while riding, it can momentarily slosh forward away from the level sensor, trigger a brief Low Oil warning. When the oil sloshes back, the warning goes away. I try to keep the oil level in the top half of the tank to avoid these spurious warnings.

  3. #3

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    I did run the engine at the ramp with the water line to the EMM off until I saw a stream of water flow. It was not much, but it was only at idle anyway.
    I will double check all the coolant lines again.
    My plan is to clear all the codes, and see what happens.

    Any ideas why I might be getting the temp codes?
    Is there another check that can be done to the senders other than just the static resistance check?
    I checked the water temp sender without removing it. I tried, but was in very tight, and I didn't want to break it.
    Do you know what temp the thermostat is designed to open?

    I had it in a pan of water around 120 deg or so, and it opened, but I would like to check it a bit more accurately before I put it back together.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Also check the water hose from EMM to hull exit. I have seen water hoses that were trapped under the battery and squashed flat.

    Thermostat should fully open around 143F (give or take a few degrees) when sitting in a pan of water on the stovetop. Have to heat it slowly to get any accuracy and it can be tricky to see when it begins opening.

  5. #5

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    All the hoses check out, and the thermo opens right around 140 145 deg.
    When to clean the codes, and they wont clear. I can get the LED to go on and off with the jumper (my old TPS would work?)
    But the LED will never go off and stay off.
    Rechecked the codes, still there.
    I unpluged the water sender, and then the clearing sequence would not work at all.

    Could both the air and water senders be bad?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Sometimes it can be tricky to get the EMM code clear sequence to actually 'take'. The on-off cycles need to be evenly timed and cleanly executed. Usually, if I persevere, I can get it to work.

    I have had the odd EMM where it just does not want to cooperate.

  7. #7

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    thanks for the help

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    Sorry to keep bothering, but I still can't get the codes to clear.
    I must be missing a step.

    I connect my LED into the loom behind the dash, the jumper on the loom on the EMM, and a jumper across the TPS. (and the lanyard in place)

    With the jumper in place, the LED starts to flash the codes, when I disconnect the jumper, the LED continues to flash until it has gone through the whole sequence, then turns solid.

    At this point the reconnect the jumper, and it does nothing. I was expecting the LED to go out with the jumper on, and on with the jumper disconnected?

    Am I doing something wrong?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob on This View Post
    Sorry to keep bothering, but I still can't get the codes to clear.
    I must be missing a step.

    I connect my LED into the loom behind the dash, the jumper on the loom on the EMM, and a jumper across the TPS. (and the lanyard in place)

    With the jumper in place, the LED starts to flash the codes, when I disconnect the jumper, the LED continues to flash until it has gone through the whole sequence, then turns solid.

    At this point the reconnect the jumper, and it does nothing. I was expecting the LED to go out with the jumper on, and on with the jumper disconnected?

    Am I doing something wrong?
    This is the sequence I have previously posted;

    Quote Originally Posted by K447
    To clear the codes, you can use EITHER the same jumper that you used to activate the code reading, OR you can use the actual TPS.

    Using the jumper, you disconnect the jumper from the TPS connector (either or both pins, just don't get confused about which pin pair you are shorting with the jumper). You do NOT use the black TPS wire at all during this process.

    Let me know how this works for you, and which method you used.

    The EMM code reset pattern goes as follows;

    Leave the lanyard in place, and EMM Service Power jumper in place.

    Using the TPS jumper method
    - Disconnect TPS jumper and wait more than 5 seconds

    Using a smooth cadence (maybe a second in each position)

    - Reconnect jumper (1st time)
    LED code light will turn OFF
    - Disconnect jumper
    LED code light will turn ON

    - Reconnect jumper (2nd)
    - Disconnect jumper

    - Reconnect jumper (3rd)
    - Disconnect jumper

    - Reconnect jumper (4th)
    - Disconnect jumper

    - Reconnect jumper (5th)
    - Disconnect jumper

    LED will go out, indicating that codes will be cleared, and no new codes have immediately occurred, if there are no Hard Codes. If there are Hard Codes (meaning the problem is still happening right now), the light will turn back on.

    Using the TPS method
    Note: TPS must be removed from the throttle body, or use a spare TPS

    - Plug TPS into TPS connector (if it wasn't already)

    Using a smooth cadence (maybe a second in each position)

    - Rotate TPS to minimum throttle stop, and hold there for more than 5 seconds
    LED light should stay ON

    - Rotate TPS to full throttle stop (maximum rotation)
    LED code light will turn OFF

    - Rotate TPS to minimum throttle stop
    LED code light will turn ON

    - Do the TPS full rotation to maximum, then back to minimum, four more times

    LED will go out, indicating that codes will be cleared, and no new codes have immediately occurred, if there are no Hard Codes. If there are Hard Codes (meaning the problem is still happening right now), the light will turn back on.

    Unplug tether from switch.
    Codes should now be erased.

    Note: the EMM may automatically clear old service codes after 15 running hours, if the same code has not re-occurred during that time.

  10. #10

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    Thanks,
    Your post is what I was working off of.
    When I get to the point of connecting and disconnecting the jumper, the LED just stays on, solid.
    Don't know why???
    The ski starts just fine now, but have not tested in the water yet.
    Just thought it would nice to start with a clean slate.

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