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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Fuel assembly on/off/res issue, do they go bad

    99 xl800 can/do the fuel cock or selector assembly on/off/res go bad? The ski started very hard and took a long time before it started. Once started it wouldn’t go over 35mph without bogging down as long as you stayed around/under 35 it ran fine. After riding for about 40 mins it really started bogging wouldn’t go over 9mph then it would shoot up to 20 then back down 9. Fuel gauge read ½ full. Had my son twist the switch to reserve then back to on. The ski took off and ran normal 40+mph with no bogging. Could the fuel been restrictive by the petcock not being open all the way? What I found when I got home was the on/off/res knob is very stiff to turn and gets stuck had to use pliers, when I open the gas cap there was no release of air (on my xl 1200 air blows out when you open the cap), the fuel gauge still reads ½ full but you can clearly see there is less than ¼ tank, the plastic nut on the assembly was loose. Wondering if maybe it wasn’t turned on all the way and was getting limited fuel. Lot of question any suggestions.

    To all who have seen my other posts on the xl1200 limited. Finished all of Bill’s mods and this thing runs great, cant believe the difference. Thanks for your help with my rebuild questions.


  2. #2

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    Jun 2012
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    Anyone know if you can spray the fuel assembly on/off/res unit with WD-40 to help free it up. Mine is very hard to turn by hand and I believe this may have been my issue that caused the below. If this system is like a ball valve I think it may not of been open all the way, any thoughts if this could of caused the problem in my first post. Should I eliminate the fuel assembly unit altogether? It’s about 50 bucks for another one.

  3. #3
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    They either stick, or leak a tank of fuel into the footwell

    I remove them from most of the boats I work on, and put a primer pump in that spot

  4. #4
    Don't suppose you've got instructions and part sources on how to do that?
    Quote Originally Posted by WFO View Post
    They either stick, or leak a tank of fuel into the footwell

    I remove them from most of the boats I work on, and put a primer pump in that spot

  5. #5

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    Jun 2012
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    Pasadena, MD
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    WFO once again thank you for your assistance. I’ll search the “how to FAQ section” to see if I can find a sticky on how to by pass the assembly and put a prime on. This 800 is totally stock, looking to go premix, D-plate and carb rebuild over the winter.

  6. #6
    In other threads there is discussion about always shutting off the fuel supply when trailering or when letting the ski sit for a while so that fuel isn't forced into the carbs and into the engine. When you remove the selector, is this really not an issue if the carbs are in good shape?

  7. #7
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Never had a problem... Fercho was the one who taught me this. He and the his gang were removing the switches back in 2001.

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