09-11-2013, 04:10 AM #1
storing jet ski for winter , full tank ? fogging oil ?
how do u guys feel about leaving the tank with gas how much do u like to put in there,
do u guys use fogging oil only ? is that the best ?
do u guys remove your battery ?
do u spray the fogging oil into the intake while running ?
09-11-2013, 07:51 AM #2
Store tank full. This helps to deter condensation. Treat gas with a stabilizer. We now use / recommend the star tron fuel treatment;
run motor, and blow water out of the lines, and cooling system.
fog with fogging oil through the carbs, kill motor, then spray into the plug holes.
I recommend removing the battery.
now is also the time to do some maintenance. Grease your cables, driveline, steer bushings, etc. Look for anything that will need attention before the next season.
09-11-2013, 07:54 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
Winterization has been covered in previous threads.
The general consensus goes something like this;
Fuel tank should be stored very nearly full or quite empty (dry is best). Avoid ethanol blended gasoline if possible.
Add fuel stabilizer during the last rides of the season, and again just before you fill the fuel tank for storage. Fuel stabilizer helps the carbs even if you decide to drain the gas tank for storage.
Tilt the nose of the watercraft upwards to help any water drain out fo the cooling system This is mandatory for the fuel injected Ficht engines, 10 to 20 degrees tilt is needed to allow the water to drain out. While it is tilted upwards (carb or fuel injected) I like to start the engine and firmly burp the throttle a few times to ensure the waterbox is cleared out as much as possible.
Fogging oil is sprayed into the carburetor air intakes while engine is running. A good dose into each, then another heavier round. Sometimes this will stall the engine, which is OK. Shut engine down after all cylinders have been strongly dosed.
Some engines have small plastic caps on the top of the flame arrestor cover. Loosen these captive caps and you can spray the fogging oil straight down into the engine air intakes. If your engine does not have the caps, or you prefer to see what you are doing, remove the cover from the flame arrestor. Do not allow anything to fall into the engine air intakes. Some models have aluminum spacers underneath the bolts. Do not loose these. After fogging the engine, be sure to reinstall the flame arrestor and snug the cover bolt(s).
Tip: While you have the cover off, check the condition of the flame arrestor. The metal mesh screen should not be dirty or excessively oily inside the top cover. Excess oil may be an indication of problems with the engine or the intake reeds.
If possible, shut the fuel selector valve off just at the right moment so that the engine burns off the last of the fuel in the carbs as you finish fogging. Some dregs of fuel will remain in the carbs, of course.
Remove spark plugs. Spray some fogging oil into the top of each cylinder. Put a rag over the spark plug holes and burp the starter a few times to spread the fogging oil around.
Reinsert spark plugs finger tight, do not reattach the spark plug wires. Ground them if you have plug grounding studs on your engine.
If you have a traditional lead-acid battery, it must be removed for winter storage, especially if the watercraft will be stored outdoors or exposed to very cold temperatures.
Connect the battery to a good quality battery maintainer and leave it connected and plugged in all winter. I suggest using a battery maintainer that also provides a de-sulfation function.
If the battery is a good quality and good condition AGM type battery, then it can be stored in the watercraft, even outside. It is better to store it indoors as above, of course.
Disconnect the battery ground cable during storage if the battery is left installed.
If your machine has an oval or round MFD, best practice is to first unplug the connector on the back of the display, then disconnect the battery. Reconnect the display after reconnecting the battery in the springtime.
For storage outside or in places where small creatures may want to build a nest in your watercraft, buy some stainless steel or brass wool and stuff a wad into the exhaust opening. Also put some in the hull ventilation intakes if appropriate. Put a note in the glovebox reminding you to take it out before starting the engine in spring.
Take the drain plugs out, tilt the nose of the trailer up high. If you can store it that way, good.
Now would be a good time to clean the inside of the hull. If there is mold or mildew, you can use a bleach and Simple Green mixture. Rinse thoroughly after letting the bleach work, and wear very old clothes. Do not inhale the bleach fumes.
Drain and dry any water from inside the hull. Leave the seat cracked open to allow air to circulate during storage.
Last edited by K447; 09-17-2013 at 12:28 AM.
09-11-2013, 11:20 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Milwaukee WI
If its at all possible store it with ethanol free fuel. The effects of ethanol fuel sitting for a long time can be devastating.
09-11-2013, 07:51 PM #5
All very good advice. I have been using Stabil and filling my tanks for years with no issues that I'm aware of.
09-11-2013, 09:53 PM #6
ok badass thanks for all the help ,
I wanted to re-ask this question just to see if there was any new tips or tricks or products,
this is a good nice updated storage thread now,
thx for the tip on the display, I was wondering about that as I heard u can run into some problems after disconnecting the battery
09-11-2013, 09:55 PM #7
if I stored the ski indoors in phx az prolly doesn't get colder the 40-50 in garage , do I still have to worry about condensation in the gas tank ?
09-11-2013, 09:56 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
Winterization info, as I recall.
Bonus points for finding them and linking to them from this thread
Last edited by K447; 09-12-2013 at 08:33 AM.
09-11-2013, 11:52 PM #9
09-12-2013, 07:38 AM #10
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