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  1. #1
    TheEngineer's Avatar
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    Engine - Pump Shoe - Thru Hull Alignment Thread

    Background - Just about a year ago I finished doing a hull swap on my 2012 RXP-X 260. I had the motor and pump aligned almost as perfectly as possible, however the the alignment tool showed a non-uniform amount of space between it and the thru hull. Naked eye measurements indicate roughly 1/8th - 3/16th inches off-center. After about 50 hours of ride time I was showing a lot of carbon dust inside the hull and my drive shaft appeared very off center with the carbon ring. It also appeared that I had a small amount of water entering the hull whenever I accelerated.

    I have read Troyheb's thread in which they actually cut the back of the thru hull off and slid it over, which allowed for the drive shaft to be centered perfectly. This still seems like an odd fix to me though. Has anyone else encountered this scenario?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In the pump tunnel I can fit a 10mm socket on the starboard side of the shaft, but I have to drop down to an 8mm socket on the port side.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Inside the hull I can fit a 13mm socket on the starboard side, and I have to drop down to 10-11mm on the port side.

    After 69 hours my ski failed on me during an offshore race. At this point my motor had shifted on the mounts which caused my shaft and pump splines to fry. Unfortunately, because of this it is difficult to determine whether or not the water intrusion and carbon dust was the result of thru-hull/pump alignment or just bad motor alignment from a motor that was gradually shifting during some very hard riding. Obviously I need to realign the motor and bolt it in better to keep this from happening again, but I'm also looking for a permanent fix to end the water intrusion and dust spray. I've gotten almost 300 hours on my RXT's carbon seal without as much dust as I was getting here....


  2. #2
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    U might want to start with some good new engine mounts, like the RHAAS ones,& shim up, or down accordingly.

    Then get the shoe aligned good, and hope for the best.

  3. #3
    shrabber's Avatar
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    I got to Say without No doubt bad alignment is the cause for these Recent motor's Getting Destroyed!!. I made my opinion earlier about it and I will back my claims up with a recent issue with A buddy of Mine On one of His 5 Ski's ( Who Has More money to spend then to wait a week for me to do it for free). Here's His case 08 GTX 130 70 hours carbon seal went started leaking and almost sunk luckily was at his private dock. He called me I confirmed it most likely was and He can either wait a week or take it to the stealer, "He said ahh I got to take one of my other ski's in for a service I will just have them replaced that part and what you told me to do to it". Well He calls me up a Day later and the stealer tells Him He needs a new pump,prop,shaft,carbon ring blah blah 2 Grand. I said Man there bending You over His reply Im just want it done family comming In don't want issues blah blah. I told Him Make sure They realign That motor and at the very least check the alignment while there in there. He did and they said it was perfect He gets it back rides it for 30 Mins no problems, Put it on dock three days later family comes in town. He Got on the Ski took it off the dock for them Immediate power loss backing ski off dock He Brings it to idle ski shuts off. Only 5 min of run time Fresh service, oil fine,coolant fine, This is No supercharged Model. Motor locked tighter than a drum. Of course there Not Taking blame but whats the common denominator??

  4. #4
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Fix the problem by following the WFO repair procedure........the entire alignment starts with the thur the hull. If its wrong, like yours, nothing else will be right with the alignment.

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  6. #5
    Sayers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEngineer View Post
    Background - Just about a year ago I finished doing a hull swap on my 2012 RXP-X 260. I had the motor and pump aligned almost as perfectly as possible, however the the alignment tool showed a non-uniform amount of space between it and the thru hull. Naked eye measurements indicate roughly 1/8th - 3/16th inches off-center. After about 50 hours of ride time I was showing a lot of carbon dust inside the hull and my drive shaft appeared very off center with the carbon ring. It also appeared that I had a small amount of water entering the hull whenever I accelerated.

    I have read Troyheb's thread in which they actually cut the back of the thru hull off and slid it over, which allowed for the drive shaft to be centered perfectly. This still seems like an odd fix to me though. Has anyone else encountered this scenario?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 2.JPG 
Views:	161 
Size:	96.2 KB 
ID:	313372
    In the pump tunnel I can fit a 10mm socket on the starboard side of the shaft, but I have to drop down to an 8mm socket on the port side.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 3.JPG 
Views:	110 
Size:	83.8 KB 
ID:	313373
    Inside the hull I can fit a 13mm socket on the starboard side, and I have to drop down to 10-11mm on the port side.

    After 69 hours my ski failed on me during an offshore race. At this point my motor had shifted on the mounts which caused my shaft and pump splines to fry. Unfortunately, because of this it is difficult to determine whether or not the water intrusion and carbon dust was the result of thru-hull/pump alignment or just bad motor alignment from a motor that was gradually shifting during some very hard riding. Obviously I need to realign the motor and bolt it in better to keep this from happening again, but I'm also looking for a permanent fix to end the water intrusion and dust spray. I've gotten almost 300 hours on my RXT's carbon seal without as much dust as I was getting here....
    What alignment tool are you using? WFO who aligned Troys made up an insert to go over the alignment shaft and slot into the trough hull so the through hull can be lined up perfectly.

    Where was the movement in the mounts? Between the actual rubber mount bolts, or is there any chance the plate that bolts to the hull and supports the rubber mount shifted?

  7. #6
    shrabber's Avatar
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    Oh and rear cylinder is the one that gets thrashed along with block as we seen here it was also on my buddies

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