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  1. #1

    1997 Polaris sl900 weak spark in center cylinder

    I have recently just bought a 1997 Polaris sl900. The pwc runs but only on 2 cylinders. I have determined that I have 135-140psi compression in each cylinder, I have weak to no spark in my center cylinder... I am looking for help?? Could anyone give me some hints/tips to help me out? I have taken my single coil pack out and moved spark plug wiring around from each cylinder. The wires and spark plugs are not the issue! I have a brand new fully charged battery. I have tested the resistance in my coil pack, all check out to be the same in each coil in the single coil pack... I'm looking for some help.. Please and thxs. Scott
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    See my signature links for more info on the original 1996-1999 ignition systems on the red domestic engines and the Ignition System Update Kit.

    There are some diagnostics you can do to confirm the ignition coils are good. The most effective one is to swap the primary wires (from the CDI to the ignition coil) for CEN and MAG, and also swap the spark plug wires between CEN and MAG. If the problem moves to the MAG cylinder, the ignition coil is bad. If the problem does not move, the coil is good.

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    Miglater's Avatar
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    Looks like u have a non updated ignition, could be the issue. They are known to go bad but, If the ski has the black ngk plug boots, i would suggest u try trimming the plug wires 1/4 inch at both ends as they are known to become loose over time and can cause a weak spark/misfire. There is a threaded spike in the boot that threads into the copper core of the plug wire. My 96 sl900 had this issue awhile back.

  4. #4
    I have switched my wires around from my cdi going to my coil pack and the spark followed the cylinder, therefore I determined that my coil pack is working fine. I have tested my stator by hooking my multi meter up to the brown wire output of the cdi going to the stator it, was 7.1volts during cranking which falls into the spec of 7-9 volts during cranking? is this correct? during cranking I run my multi meter from the circuit board main ground to the engine block and I have 0.01volts on my meter. im thinking the gound is fine in that case?? after doing this tests im thinking the CDI unit is failing... is there any other tests I could do to prove this?? does anyone have a good link to download the service manual from? any links to buy the ignition update kit for a 1997 sl 900? what does the update kit come with? I heard the sl900 updates only come with the stators and the CDI only?? Would I still beable to use my coil pack that I have now???

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotts900 View Post
    I have switched my wires around from my cdi going to my coil pack and the spark followed the cylinder, therefore I determined that my coil pack is working fine.

    I have tested my stator by hooking my multi meter up to the brown wire output of the cdi going to the stator it, was 7.1volts during cranking which falls into the spec of 7-9 volts during cranking? is this correct?

    during cranking I run my multi meter from the circuit board main ground to the engine block and I have 0.01volts on my meter. im thinking the gound is fine in that case??

    after doing this tests im thinking the CDI unit is failing... is there any other tests I could do to prove this??

    ... any links to buy the ignition update kit for a 1997 sl 900? what does the update kit come with? I heard the sl900 updates only come with the stators and the CDI only?? Would I still be able to use my coil pack that I have now???
    Have a look through my signature links, especially the red domestic engine section. You can start here.

    You can further ohm test the stator coils and in particular the Hall Effect sensors.

    The Ignition Update Kits for three cylinder engines do not include a new ignition coil pack, the old coil pack should work fine (presuming it is not damaged).

  6. #6
    Does anyone have a link to where I can buy a ignition update for my 1997 Polaris sl900?

  7. #7
    I have gotten ahold of a new ignition upgrade for my sl900. The issue I have now is! When I press the start button I do not have spark at all then when I press the blue bilge pump button and then the start button I have spark again. And my ski starts up. I've tryed searching if mabe that is just a safety feature but it's just really weird that I have to press the bilge button to get spark! I've taken apart the switch, it appears to be ok! I have installed pwc 0005 service bulletin jumper wire to which moves the purple and red wire to the Orange terminal to allow for Easyer warm starting.. Once my ski starts it runs great with no issues I just find it weird that I have to press to blue bilge pump button to get spark? Any ideas??

  8. #8
    And the other issue I have is my display screen will never shut off! Even when my key is pulled off the kill switch the display slays on. So I have a power shut off switch on my negative cable from my starter to the battery and that kills the ground so my display shuts off... Just wondering what your guys thoughts are about my display not turning off and pressing the blue bilge pump button before the green start button to get my spark to work......

  9. #9

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    sounds like your lr/voltage regulator is bad

  10. #10
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    The MFD always shows the clock. It never completely turns off.

    Your LR module may be bad. Does your trim motor operate with the engine running? Does the bilge pump run? That will tell you if the LR is functioning. Just out of curiosity, do you get an RPM reading while cranking the engine? This will tell you if the LR is getting the signal to turn on power to the orange wire.

    You could try moving the red/purple CDI wire back to the red/purple terminal and see if everything operates properly.

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