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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Rebuilding a Polaris 3240220 Water/Fuel separator, new o-ring seals

    Polaris Fuji & red Domestic engine OEM (Taiyogiken) Fuel-Water separator. Clean inside and out, rebuild with new o-rings.

    Polaris part number 3240220 is the entire fuel/water separator assembly.

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    1) The entire insides of the separator must be squeaky clean. If there are deposits from old gasoline, clean them out. Take care not to damage the plastic bowl. Use carburetor cleaner or other suitable solvent, plus an old toothbrush or similar. You want zero grit and residue left inside. Remove the coil spring with a gentle twisting and pulling motion and clean the bottom of the plastic bowl.

    Clean the outside surfaces, the hose nipples and the threads around the metal lid and the plastic cap ring while you are at it

    Once clean, when re-assembled the unit must be completely air tight. That means the o-ring that seals the top must be in good (excellent condition would be preferred) condition and the inside rim of the metal top must be smooth. No gouges, nicks, or crusty accumulations. Same goes for the rim of the fuel bowl. Clean and smooth.


    2) The original (polaris 3240209) o-ring (if it is still there) is likely to be quite dried out from age. I suggest replacing it even it if 'looks' OK. A new o-ring will be softer and provide a more reliable seal.

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    An air tight seal at the lid of the fuel/water separator is mandatory to avoid ventilation of the fuel supply. Air leaks into the fuel supply can reduce fuel pressure and fuel volume delivered to the carburetors, increasing the risk of piston lean burn and engine damage.

    Note: The entire fuel system from fuel tank to fuel pump is under suction, not pressure. The fuel pump creates a suction to draw the gasoline from the fuel tank and move it through the hoses to the fuel pump at the engine. Air leaks interfere with the fuel pumping process.


    3) Make sure you actually have all the pieces;
    3240209 (5411051) Large upper O-ring
    3240239 metal mesh fuel filter cylinder with small o-ring inside
    3240238 tapered coil spring
    3240240 (5432279) water indicator float ring (red)

    Notes:
    1994 (3240208 ) water separators apparently did not have the internal filter or did not have the red water indicator ring. If you know have additional info regarding which years/models did or did not have these parts please post a reply.

    1992 and 1993 models used only an inline fuel filter (2530008 ) and did not have a fuel/water separator. If you are restoring an early model consider upgrading to the complete fuel/water separator with internal fuel filter and water indicator red ring.

    Inline fuel filters were also used in some models up to 1997 (along with the fuel/water separator). The Octane also uses a single inline fuel filter.

    4) The filter canister should fit snugly onto the nipple inside the lid. There should be a small o-ring tucked just inside the top of the mesh filter canister. If this needs replacement (it should be replaced if it is original) or does not seem to seal well to the lid nipple, replace it. It can be tricky to extract the old o-ring from the groove it is nestled into. I use a dental tool with a hooked end tip.

    This can be replaced with either Metric 11.8mm x 2.4mm (93125K35) or 9452K23 7/16" x 3/32" -111 size. A bit of 2-stroke oil should help the new o-ring settle into place. Be sure to clean the internal groove out before installing the new o-ring. There will be dried gasoline deposits in there.


    The coil spring holds the metal filter cartridge in place when assembled. The red ring is made of a plastic material that sinks in gasoline but floats in water. If there is water in the fuel supply the red ring will rise off the bottom when the water accumulates in the bottom of the separator (water sinks underneath gasoline), giving a visual indication that the fuel is contaminated with water.

    Note: If you are using gasoline blended with with ethanol the presence of water can cause phase separation of the ethanol. if you see a white/milky goop in the bottom of the fuel separator, that is phase separated ethanol+water. This is not good, and typically means the fuel tank must be completely drained and cleaned.

    Note: Since the separator has a permanent metal mesh fuel filter inside, there is normally no need for another external/aftermarket fuel filter elsewhere in the fuel system. The Polaris fuel system is sensitive to flow restrictions in the fuel supply. Using an incorrect or unnecessary fuel filter can result in reduced fuel pressure and cause problems.

    5) When putting the separator assembly back together, smear a thin layer of 2-stroke oil onto the large o-ring to help it seat properly without stretching, tearing or distorting. If the o-ring becomes damaged, replace it. A drop of 2-stroke oil on the small inner o-ring also helps the filter slide into place on the lid nipple.

    You need the plastic retaining ring to be tightened snugly enough that it does not vibrate loose while you are riding the watercraft, but do not over-tighten it so much that you risk the plastic failing.


    When attaching the fuel hoses, use new high quality hoses. Also use good quality hose clamps. Oetiker type stepless/gapless ear clamps are recommended. Gear clamps sometimes do not seal the hose properly, deforming the hose itself and potentially allowing air leaks. Gear clamps can sometimes loosen over time and with vibration.

    Replacement o-ring for the fuel:water separator (see next post for more info)
    Measurements of a spare separator and an old o-ring I have here suggest it is a standard -224 size o-ring of 1.75 inches inside diameter, 1/8 inch thick.

    McMaster-Carr 5018T261 (AS3578 Buna-N O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 224)

    While it looks like the rim inside the lid could even accept a thicker o-ring of 3/16". That would be McMaster-Carr 5018T35 (AS3578 Buna-N O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 327)
    Update: The -327 o-ring is a really snug fit. You can lubricate it and force it in there, but it is not optimal. It will difficult to get it seated when the separator is installed in the hull.

    Since the fuel/water separator is actually a Japan made part, it is possible that the technically correct replacement o-ring is something Metric; perhaps 3.1 mm Width, 44.4 mm ID (McMaster-Carr 9262K767).


    If someone could confirm which of these o-ring sizes do indeed fit well and most importantly, seal well, please post your comments.
    Last edited by K447; 10-13-2013 at 12:00 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Here are the O-ring sizes, compared and installed. As best I can tell the original Taiyogiken (OEM on Polaris Fuji/Domestic carburetor engines) o-rings are Metric.
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    You can see that the Metric o-rings are a bit thinner than the dash number versions.

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    The large outer rim seal (above) in original metric size would be 3.1 mm Width, 44.4 mm ID (McMaster-Carr 9262K767).


    I think I prefer the slightly thicker AS568A-224 size (see below) for the outer bowl rim seal. It fills the gap a little more.
    McMaster-Carr
    5018T261 (AS3578 Buna-N O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 224)
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    Last edited by K447; 06-22-2015 at 10:05 AM.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    This is what the original o-ring looked like when I extracted it from the top of the metal filter canister.
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    Clean up the retaining groove.
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    New o-ring fitted. You can put it in dry or lubricate it with a drop of 2-stroke oil. Don't drop it inside the filter, and don't cut or nick the soft rubber while pushing it into position.
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    You can use either the Metric 11.8mm x 2.4mm (93125K35) or 9452K23 7/16" x 3/32" -111
    The -111 is slightly thicker and provides a more snug fit onto the lid nipple.
    Both seem to work just fine.

    The old o-ring had decomposed and stuck to the nipple of the lid. Clean the old gunk off. Do not scrape the metal surface. I used a nylon scrubbing pad (stolen from the kitchen ).

    Wash off any residue and debris. Squeaky clean is what you want.
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    All cleaned up. Inspect the entire rim inside flange for nicks or roughness. The new large o-ring needs to have a good seal to the inside rim of the lid.
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    Last edited by K447; 06-22-2015 at 10:06 AM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    A drop of 2-stroke oil lubricates the new o-ring, ready to be attached to the cleaned lid.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    In this example I used the McMaster-Carr 9452K23 7/16" x 3/32" -111 size.

    There are two sizes of bowl and two sizes of spring. I cannot find a definitive part number for the short bowl.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Otherwise the metal filter canister, both o-rings and lid all seem to be the same.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    For reference, this is how the rather thick McMaster-Carr 5018T35 (AS3578 Buna-N O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 327) 'fits' (more like jammed in there).

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    Here is the original (old and hardened) o-ring on top. On the bottom is the slightly thicker than OEM -224 o-ring and in the middle is the apparently same as OEM metric 3.1mm thick McMaster-Carr 9262K767
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  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    There are two sizes of bowl and two sizes of spring. I cannot find a definitive part number for the short bowl.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Otherwise the metal filter canister, both o-rings and lid all seem to be the same.
    I would not be surprised to find out that there are NOT in fact two different sizes of springs. The aluminum water separator "top", is common among all years, while the short bowl was used up to 1995 without an internal filter screen, then replaced with the long bowl with internal filter in 96 on.

    I would say it is possible that someone cut the longer spring to allow usage of the mesh filter in a short bowl. The finished ends sure look different in your photos.....

    I am having a hard time finding the part numbers for the early bowls as well, as the parts catalog refers to it as an assembly without a PN. In 96, they start identifying the individual components within the separator, with the top, bowl, and O ring still referred to as an assembly.......

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    There are two sizes of bowl and two sizes of spring. I cannot find a definitive part number for the short bowl.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Otherwise the metal filter canister, both o-rings and lid all seem to be the same.
    I would not be surprised to find out that there are NOT in fact two different sizes of springs. The aluminum water separator "top", is common among all years, while the short bowl was used up to 1995 without an internal filter screen, then replaced with the long bowl with internal filter in 96 on.

    I would say it is possible that someone cut the longer spring to allow usage of the mesh filter in a short bowl. The finished ends sure look different in your photos.....

    I am having a hard time finding the part numbers for the early bowls as well, as the parts catalog refers to it as an assembly without a PN. In 96, they start identifying the individual components within the separator, with the top, bowl, and O ring still referred to as an assembly.......
    I am seeing the mesh filter and spring innards starting with the 1995 parts diagrams, curiously labeled as a 'Drain Assembly'.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Perhaps the parts diagrams are inaccurate in this regard, as I thought the floating red floating ring was not present in the very early versions of the fuel/water separator. Am I misremembering this?

    Regarding the possibility that the short spring is in fact just a cut-down longer spring, I did actually compare the wire spiral ends. Both stock and short springs looked to be cut in the same way, a very clean almost 'machined' end at right angles, no signs of a diagonal wire cutting hand tool or roughness. It is of course possible that somebody just did a very nice job of shortening that spring.

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    There are two sizes of bowl and two sizes of spring. I cannot find a definitive part number for the short bowl.
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	137 
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ID:	316125
    Otherwise the metal filter canister, both o-rings and lid all seem to be the same.
    I would not be surprised to find out that there are NOT in fact two different sizes of springs. The aluminum water separator "top", is common among all years, while the short bowl was used up to 1995 without an internal filter screen, then replaced with the long bowl with internal filter in 96 on.

    I would say it is possible that someone cut the longer spring to allow usage of the mesh filter in a short bowl. The finished ends sure look different in your photos.....

    I am having a hard time finding the part numbers for the early bowls as well, as the parts catalog refers to it as an assembly without a PN. In 96, they start identifying the individual components within the separator, with the top, bowl, and O ring still referred to as an assembly.......
    I am seeing the mesh filter and spring innards starting with the 1995 parts diagrams, curiously labeled as a 'Drain Assembly'.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3048C007.jpg 
Views:	146 
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ID:	316194

    Perhaps the parts diagrams are inaccurate in this regard, as I thought the floating red floating ring was not present in the very early versions of the fuel/water separator. Am I misremembering this?

    Regarding the possibility that the short spring is in fact just a cut-down longer spring, I did actually compare the wire spiral ends. Both stock and short springs looked to be cut in the same way, a very clean almost 'machined' end at right angles, no signs of a diagonal wire cutting hand tool or roughness. It is of course possible that somebody just did a very nice job of shortening that spring.
    I had the impression that they started showing up in 95, but couldn't find the diagrams until 96..... interesting that they call it drain assembly.... Now that I think of it, the two 94 units that I swapped out did not have the orange rings in them. Must have simply been a visual check. Perhaps the short bowl was the interim version that first showed up in 95.... Always interesting to see how things evolved....

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