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  1. #1

    Hoping this is just the wear ring

    I have a 2000 GTX, original owner, about 105 hours on it. Was riding this weekend for the first time after rebuilding the carbs, everything seemed to be running fine then felt a slight bump along with a muffled pop sound. Let off the throttle, came to a stop then tried to start again. It would go but not quickly, felt like a lot of cavitation. Put it back on the trailer and found what I am hoping is just the wear ring chewed up (see pics).

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    I know the pics do not show everything but from what is visible does it appear that it is just the wear ring with no other damage? When this happens to wear rings does it typically caused other problems or things to break? I have not taken it apart yet but my plan is to just replace the wear ring as long as that is all that is wrong. I did not want to take the impeller out (as long as it looks okay) but should I and have it reworked? Oh, this is the original wear ring.

    Thanks


  2. #2
    Hard to see on a cell phone, but it looks like the wear ring to me.

    You have to open it up no matter what you do. If the impeller needs work due to age now is the time as winter is upon us.

    If you pull the impeller take a good look at the drive shaft splines and replace the runner bumpers.

  3. #3
    Last I checked the wear rings were white, you have a lot of black chewed up mess there. Looks like you mangled that pump up pretty well. Pull it off and let us know how bad it is, it takes like 10-15minuets, especially if you re lucky enough to have it on a trailer.

  4. #4
    I have seen white, grey an black wear rings.

    Could be pump damage for sure. Have to open it no matter what.

  5. #5
    Thanks for the replies

    Quote Originally Posted by kwtony View Post
    Last I checked the wear rings were white, you have a lot of black chewed up mess there. Looks like you mangled that pump up pretty well. Pull it off and let us know how bad it is, it takes like 10-15minuets, especially if you re lucky enough to have it on a trailer.
    for the 10-15 min, would that be just to take the back part off (remove reverse bucket, steering cable, remove the four bolts holding the back half of the pump)? or more than just that? Sorry, have not worked on the pump before but I am mechanically inclined. Will try this evening or tomorrow.

    I know this is a bit premature, just trying to get an idea of what I may be in for. If it is pump damage I am sure it can be of various degrees, but is anything repairable or will I need a new one? Rough estimates of a new one?

  6. #6

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    looks like an exploded wear ring-- $50 wear ring, $5 o-ring, $5 gear lube of your choice, $15 518 for the big tube-- o-ring, $5 pipe dope for the set screw, $5 CRC red can break clean, $10 marron scuff pad and a couple nice razor blades, bearing grease for the impeller splines. You will also need a drill to predrill the new wear ring, impeller tool, nut driver, large vise, map gas for the prop if it hasn't been off before.

    30 minute job with the tools and supplies.

  7. #7
    Still have not had a chance to take the pump off but did get a few more pictures from under the intake. If I am looking at this right this is the side where the black part of the wear ring was chewed up since it looks like it is white now. In one of the pics it looks like you can see some of the black wear ring behind the impeller. Let me know if this is not what it looks like. The rest of the pump/intake looks okay. I am going to try taking off the pump this weekend.

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    I tried searching for pump removal and did not come across a detailed guide but I do have the shop manual. It appears pretty simple (and from what some of the replies to this thread indicated) but just want to make sure I am not overlooking anything. Going to take off the nozzle and reverse bucket, steering cable, then the four nuts holding the pump on. At this point it should just pull off and no hoses should be connected to the hull - looks like o-rings are used to connect them.

    The shop manual mentions there might be a shim in the pump. Is this common? Will it just fall out and if so is it easy to know where it goes? Is there an easy way to check if the pump is lined up correctly?

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Okay, finally got the pump removed and it appears it is just the wear ring. I removed the shredded parts then the wear ring (it came out really easy, did not freeze the pump). I did freeze the new wear ring and it went in very easily. I had to try a few times drilling the holes in the wear ring for the screw - the first few times the hole was not large enough causing the screws to push the ring into the impeller. Used a bit about the size of the screw holes in the pump. Here are a few pics.

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    Did not put the pump back in yet, looking to do that tomorrow.

    Question: when putting the loctite 518 gasket eliminator on, how much goes on and is it just on the flat part or also the small lip? Have not used that before. Guessing it needs spread out to cover the entire surface, just not sure how thick so as not to cause it to leak out.

  9. #9
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    I always do a little grease smeared on the driveshaft splines, and a bead of plain jane clear silicone on the flat part of the pump mounting surface in your last pic. Now is also the ideal time to change that pump oil. Make sure when you put the cone back on that the fill plug is on the top side.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    I always do a little grease smeared on the driveshaft splines, and a bead of plain jane clear silicone on the flat part of the pump mounting surface in your last pic. Now is also the ideal time to change that pump oil. Make sure when you put the cone back on that the fill plug is on the top side.
    And thread sealant on the plug threads!

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