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  1. #1

    2001 genisis 1200 carb loses spark after running a few minutes

    I have this Genisis in my shop that loses spark after running a few minutes, We replaced the Stator and start stop switch and that did not fix the issue.. I tested the Tether today witch is supposed to be .3 ohms or less and it is .7 ohms, could this be our Problem???
    We are new to this Forum and I got to say it is Very helpful!!


  2. #2
    kaotic1's Avatar
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    have you checked the hall effect sensors? Also you can take the red wire from the voltage regulator off the spade terminal of red wires, and put it with the orange wires on those spade connectors and this fixes the warm start problem on the 1200s

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaotic1 View Post
    ... you can take the red wire from the voltage regulator off the spade terminal of red wires, and put it with the orange wires on those spade connectors and this fixes the warm start problem on the 1200s
    This is incorrect.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Tether switch 0.7 ohms is probably fine, as most meters have limited accuracy at very low ohms. This was measured with the lanyard NOT in place, correct?

    Bypass the LR-505 Start/Stop module for testing.

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    kaotic1's Avatar
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    sorry for the misinformation...

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    kaotic1's Avatar
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    went outside and looked at a 2000 genesis... its red/purple from cdi to orange spades, dont know if this is a temporary fix for a defective start stop or cdi but it has been working for quite awhile..sorry for my confusion...

  8. #7
    How do I check the Hall Effect Sensors??

  9. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjpowersports View Post
    How do I check the Hall Effect Sensors??
    Where have you been? Over two weeks since you last posted

    How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Hall Effect sensors on domestic engines

  10. #9
    Customer had us put it on the back burner, well now we went to get back at it, ran it for 30 seconds shut it off and now there is NO SPARK period! This thing is driving me nuts.. I did test the new stator and it good, I guess its time to try a CDI if he wants.. Personally I think this thing is a bigger money pit than its worth..

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjpowersports View Post
    Customer had us put it on the back burner, well now we went to get back at it, ran it for 30 seconds shut it off and now there is NO SPARK period! This thing is driving me nuts..

    I did test the new stator and it good, I guess its time to try a CDI if he wants.. Personally I think this thing is a bigger money pit than its worth..
    I don't know what other tests you have done, so let's regroup here.

    First, and always, monitor the battery voltage while cranking. These domestic carb engine Polaris CDI require a strong battery during cranking, or no spark. Battery voltage should stay well above 10.6 volts while cranking. A good battery will maintain close to or above 11.0 volts while cranking.

    An old or weak but recently charged battery will not be sufficient. My recommendation is the Deka ETX16LM battery, which is a factory sealed AGM battery. Excellent battery for these watercraft, in multiple ways.

    This strong cranking voltage must actually reach the CDI. That would be measured at the CDI Black and Red/Purple wires.

    There should be zero corrosion inside the electrical box, and no signs of moisture.



    1) Check where the Red/Purple wire from the CDI module goes. If it just joins up with the other Red/Purple wires, then unplug just the CDI wire at the bullet connector.
    Create a jumper (female bullet to female spade) to link the Red/Purple wire from the CDI (and only that wire) to the Orange wire terminal group.

    The other disconnected Red/Purple bullet connector now remains unused.

    This is per Polaris Service Bulletin PWC-00-05, which corrects a no-warm restart problem. It uses the LR module to control power feed to the CDI, so the LR module must be working properly to provide accessory power to the Orange terminals.

    If the above change does not correct the no-warm-restart problem, then

    2) Bypass the LR-505 Start/Stop module for testing. I have posted the method multiple times, just search for LR-505 in my post titles.

    Note how the CDI power feed is controlled during the LR bypass testing. You want the CDI to be entirely unpowered when engine is off. Apply and maintain power to the CDI and then crank then engine. Should start and run.
    Last edited by K447; 10-10-2013 at 01:24 PM.

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