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  1. #1

    1995 SL 650 - buzzer alarm sounding

    I just wanted to say thank you for posting all of this information. I bought a beater '95 SL 650 that hadn't seen water in over a decade. I followed all of the suggestions (replaced fuel pump w/high press one, replaced all fuel lines, rebuilt carbs w/ genuine mikuni, etc.) and it fired up immediately. So again, thank you.

    I do have one issue that I have no idea whats going on... There is a high pitch squeal at all times the engine is running. It almost sounds electrical. Like a low pressure warning horn of some sort. The only mod I didn't do is to block off the oil pump. I am mixing fuel and I emptied and blocked off the oil line from the tank to the pump. I figured this did the same thing without having to install the oil block. Does the sound I an hearing have anything to do with the oil pump?


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlynRyn79 View Post
    I just wanted to say thank you for posting all of this information. I bought a beater '95 SL 650 that hadn't seen water in over a decade. I followed all of the suggestions (replaced fuel pump w/high press one, replaced all fuel lines, rebuilt carbs w/ genuine mikuni, etc.) and it fired up immediately. So again, thank you.

    I do have one issue that I have no idea whats going on... There is a high pitch squeal at all times the engine is running. It almost sounds electrical. Like a low pressure warning horn of some sort. The only mod I didn't do is to block off the oil pump. I am mixing fuel and I emptied and blocked off the oil line from the tank to the pump. I figured this did the same thing without having to install the oil block. Does the sound I an hearing have anything to do with the oil pump?
    Welcome to the Hulk! If you drained the oil tank, the sender will read empty and cause the overheat / low oil buzzer to sound. You can simply disconnect the low oil sensor wires in the electrical box, or pull the sender out of the oil tank, and zip tie the float up so it thinks the tank is full.....

    You will want to consider removing the oil pump and drive gear and installing the block off if you want to go with premix. However, many will tell you that the oil pumps on the Polaris machines are quite reliable, as long as the lines, clamps, and filter are in good condition......

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlynRyn79 View Post
    I just wanted to say thank you for posting all of this information. I bought a beater '95 SL 650 that hadn't seen water in over a decade. I followed all of the suggestions (replaced fuel pump w/high press one, replaced all fuel lines, rebuilt carbs w/ genuine mikuni, etc.) and it fired up immediately. So again, thank you.

    I do have one issue that I have no idea whats going on... There is a high pitch squeal at all times the engine is running. It almost sounds electrical. Like a low pressure warning horn of some sort. The only mod I didn't do is to block off the oil pump. I am mixing fuel and I emptied and blocked off the oil line from the tank to the pump. I figured this did the same thing without having to install the oil block. Does the sound I an hearing have anything to do with the oil pump?
    If your machine does not have a digital MFD display then you may have a buzzer warning. I really should check the wiring diagrams, but if your machine has a buzzer it probably sounds for Low Oil and Overheat. If you have a fuel level sender it might trigger for Low Fuel too.

    Going from fuzzy memory.

    The oil injection on your machine was probably variable flow rate (if it had a linkage between the oil pump and the carburetor throttle shaft). If so, the oil injection would consume about 1/2 the oil as pre-mixing.

    If there is an oil level sender in your oil tank, either zip tie the float so it stays at the top, or disconnect the Blue wire (from the oil level sender) inside the electrical box. That should stop the buzzer.

    If the buzzer is sounding because you really do have an overheat condition, you need to fix that.

  4. #4
    If I leave the oil system as is and only zip tie the float, will I burn up the oil pump? I am not too familiar with the oil system so forgive me if I sound like an idiot.

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    If the oil pump is not doing its job, ie suction on one end, pressure on the other, and oil is not allowed to flow, or if the oil runs out of the pump, it is a potential issue. Some have removed the pump, pulled the drive gear from the crankcase, and simply re-installed the pump as the block off plate....

  6. #6
    Alright...so you got me thinking.

    I am worried about an oil pump failure for no apparent reason, but I just am. I don't know the history of the boat so I am expecting the worst. That's why I would rather premix, however, as far as I know the pump still works just fine.

    Your comment has me thinking..
    "The oil injection on your machine was probably variable flow rate (if it had a linkage between the oil pump and the carburetor throttle shaft). If so, the oil injection would consume about 1/2 the oil as pre-mixing."

    I looked at the service manual and it shows the linkage. Are you saying that the stock oil injection system runs "lean" on oil as opposed to pre-mixing? I am thinking that instead of blocking off the oil pump and going full premix, use the standard system and premix, just at less of a ratio. What's the worst that can happen? Fouled plugs? Thats a cheap and easy fix. That will alleviate having to zip tie the float in the oil tank to kill the squeal and provide some redundancy should the oil system fail. Especially since you say that the stock pump only provides 1/2 the oil ratio anyway. Am I over thinking this?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The variable flow oil pump does not run the engine 'oil lean' compared to pre-mixing. The oil injection system delivers the appropriate amount of oil

    In effect, pre-mix delivers too much oil except at near wide open throttle and max RPM. The oil pump and the pre-mix are both going to lubricate the engine about the same at high RPM.

    At mid and lower RPM, the oil pump is going to back off since the engine does not need that much oil. This means less exhaust smoke (which is essentially oil that is not being fully consumed in the combustion chamber), less spark plug fouling, less oil consumption. Pre-mix during those RPM ranges will be over oiling the engine, just burning it off and smoking without any real benefit.

    Using less oil means you can afford to buy better quality oil. So at wide open, the oil injection with the better oil is doing a better job than pre-mix.

    Sure, you can run the oil injection and also pre-mix at some thinner ratio. Just choose a good quality oil that can handle something like 100:1 and is compatible with both pre-mixing and oil injection.

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