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  1. #1
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Cleaning an sealing crank case halves

    New crank will be coming shortly. I bought 1211 bond, this is the correct sealant for the case halves correct? Can I also use it to seal the oil block off plate? As for cleaning the cases, they are extremely greasy. I used some stuff called "Gunk" to clean up the inside of the cases, but what concerns me is the mating surface area. Will ethanol anhydrous clean the mating area enough? The manual also calls for sealant to be applied on both upper an lower cases. This seems like a lot an im worried sealant will get into the crank. How much sealant is needed?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Hot soapy water and scrubbing is one method. You want the crank case halves to be squeaky clean and completely dry.

    Soaking in degreaser is another method.

    Cleanliness is critical when building an engine. The parts should all be clean and dry, other than the crank itself which will be oily when you get it.

    No dust, dirt or grit in the assembly area. Almost clean enough to eat off the surface. If your wrenches are excessively dirty, wipe them down too.

    Pre clean the threads on bolts and nuts. Inspect the threads in the crank case bottom, front face, and other threaded pieces. If necessary run a tap through to clean them up.

    Arrange the parts as you will need to install them. Make sure old sealant and gasket residue has been cleaned off all mating parts.

    Apply 2-stroke oil where appropriate to lubricate items as you install them.

    Engine case sealant needs to be applied sparingly. Excessive sealant will simply squeeze into the engine interior, where it will do no good and might cause trouble if it gets into the wrong spots.

    It is not so much a 'bead' of sealant as it is a thin film of sealant that you are applying. Just enough to fill minor gaps and not-quite-flat mating surfaces.

    Have both red and blue Loctite ready, of course.

    Have a check list of torque numbers for the various bolts. And the torque patterns for the bottom and top of the engine, plus the exhaust and intake manifolds.

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  4. #3
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Hot soapy water and scrubbing is one method. You want the crank case halves to be squeaky clean and completely dry.

    Soaking in degreaser is another method.

    Cleanliness is critical when building an engine. The parts should all be clean and dry, other than the crank itself which will be oily when you get it.

    No dust, dirt or grit in the assembly area. Almost clean enough to eat off the surface. If your wrenches are excessively dirty, wipe them down too.

    Pre clean the threads on bolts and nuts. Inspect the threads in the crank case bottom, front face, and other threaded pieces. If necessary run a tap through to clean them up.

    Arrange the parts as you will need to install them. Make sure old sealant and gasket residue has been cleaned off all mating parts.

    Apply 2-stroke oil where appropriate to lubricate items as you install them.

    Engine case sealant needs to be applied sparingly. Excessive sealant will simply squeeze into the engine interior, where it will do no good and might cause trouble if it gets into the wrong spots.

    It is not so much a 'bead' of sealant as it is a thin film of sealant that you are applying. Just enough to fill minor gaps and not-quite-flat mating surfaces.

    Have both red and blue Loctite ready, of course.

    Have a check list of torque numbers for the various bolts. And the torque patterns for the bottom and top of the engine, plus the exhaust and intake manifolds.
    Thank you for the detailed post! Still have a few questions though. So do I smear the sealant on both sides of the cases. And is blue or red thread lock needed for the case bolts? I want to use red lock on the engine cradle bolts because it was very loose when I removed the engine !!!!

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