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  1. #1
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    Explain the Jet Works valve!

    Ok so I started jumping waves a lot this summer and it's all fun except for my suckish gp acceleration with my dynafly prop. I've been reading and it seems like the best mod for acceleration is the jet works valve. I've read through a bunch of threads and I understand the concept and how it dries out the waterbox but where exactly does that water go?

    I'm just worried about installing it. I see that there are a bunch of different ways and being a noob and all I want to go with the simplest way. which way do you guys recommend? Do I really need to drill into my pipe?

    I'll do a d-plate also so my pipe will be off anyway but what else has to come off for the installation?

    I also noticed that on the riva website the valve is about $50 but carl @ island racing sells his kit for $150. is there really that much hardware that the price would go up $100 for the kit?


    thanks for any help!


  2. #2
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    My kit is $175.00

    I hand make all my kits. Comes with jetworks pro control valve w/tapered seat, pipe block-off gasket, hi-pressure hoses, stelth Y, pump strainer plate, all fittings, bolts and clamps

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=24493

  3. #3
    Mongoose's Avatar
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    Your hole shot with that dynafly will be absolute crap-especially as the stock 03 and 04 skis come with a 85mm exit nozzle, not the 87mm one that comes with the older gp1200r and the 05 to 08 gp1300r.
    The jetworks mod will only help with hole shot from a standstill-when your cruising in the waves, your usually doing more than 3500 (about where it's set to open), so you will see no difference.
    Get a 87mm, or bore your nozzle out to 87mm, and change your prop to a Skat 13/19 swirl-probably about $250-$300 cost for both, and sell your Solas for $120 ish-cheap gain with a huge difference from what your used to!
    Ive actually bored my exit nozzle out to 88mm!
    The 14/20 is not a good prop for holeshot, and is probably dragging your rpm's down to a dangerous level.

  4. #4
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    I'm just worried about loosing top end speed with the 13/19. if i did do the 13/19 would i still need the holeshot kit to get good acceleration?

    so if you bored your 87mm to 88mm does that mean i can just bore my 85 to and 87?

  5. #5
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    where are your rpms now?

  6. #6
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    I dont have a tach but from the display screen somewhere in the low 7000's i think, if thats any accurate.

  7. #7
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    you really need a tach to get accurate rpms numbers before fine tuning a impeller/nozzle

  8. #8
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    I'll work on getting one of those first. i'm guessing the stock one from yamaha is about as useful as the dreamometer

  9. #9
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    Hello, if you take Rich's advice @ WFO ... you Will see & get the best your ski has to offer I bought the hole shot kit from him ... it works like he said ... I installed a 4* key way .... it works like he said ... I just got a Pet 2100 tach and I am now tuning the fuel controller to fine that 7100 - 7200 rpm range. My hole shot is by far the best it's ever been ... and the mid range pull-away is eye watering ... just like he said. However, the top end has still not cracked the 70 mph on my GPS .... but I just have to keep tuning the controller to find max RPMs
    Believe me, Rich @ WFO, is the Yamaha go to guy

  10. #10
    OLD # 7 IEGPR's Avatar
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    +1 for Ozark and WFO

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