10-06-2013, 10:40 PM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
inline electric fuel pump add on to older model skis with starting issues
Ok I'm a first time ski buyer and i bought a clunker and have it going pretty good. I couldn't find one person's thread or topic here that was what a good or home mechanic should know about the fuel system on these Polaris pwc.
I have a sl700 1996 God only knows the last time it ran it had a bad starter then i had to do a top engine rebuild and ran 83mm wesco pistons i did my own bore and hone so not bad for my first project with a pwc.
I'm going to touch on the fuel system and i will save you a lot of headache if your ski is not starting or hard restarts there is a simple fix one not all fuel lines are trash if they aren't spongy they probably are good i have had trash build up in my filters and have had to get the air compressor out and pull the gas line off the carb and open the gas cap then back pressuring the system lines to free them back up....i believe my filters have a metal screen in them not paper so much easier to do and if that's one problem eventually you should pump your tank or remove and clean out then re install.
Ok to the bigger problem your carburetor is not pumping gas i will tell you why it's not always the fuel pump that has went out the fuel pump works on the pressure of the engine turning over well i took a air compressor and blew back into the engine fuel line for the pump and guess what air was blowing out around the output shaft. I then turned the black cover around and noticed a seal was torn a problem i haven't addressed yet to fix but I'm going to tell you how to make your ski run and also not leave you stranded on the lake....
Don't use a primer bulb inline i bought one helped somewhat but don't waste your money and here's the key to a non fuel pump system..... It's adding a fuel pump inline right before the carburetor just disconnect the fuel line add the pump there and clamp cut another spare piece of 5/16 automotive fuel line and attach to the other end and clamp there then connect the fuel line you just added to the carburetor and clamp that tight too.
Why have we added this because our engine is not pumping pressure to the fuel pump and or your pump is bad either way my method will help you enthusiasts that are not getting fuel i thought of adding one in the tank more work and trouble to ever replace or check next i did read one post someone wrote and said your pump needs somewhere around 2 to 4psi to run ok i was going to use a automotive one that has high pressure and my girlfriend dad had a old one he had bought for a motorcycle years ago it's 2.5 to 4.5psi output so I'm in that guys range you might could use a slightly higher range but you want a low pressure not to damage your system keep that in mind.
Now my ski once started ran without the pump on it was the restarts that killed me starting it again or stranded once no fun let me tell you ok he had a toggle he added and it was fused so today i just ran it and left his toggle on and ran it outside the seat area for testing i thought maybe wire it to the start button wires that may work but your better with a stand alone switch you can kill the pump off when you stop simply turn off and before you crank turn on to get the system pressurized with fuel to the carburetor then crank. I have to keep squeezing the throttle to inject gas but it will save you a lot of rebuilding cost and time and looking for expensive Polaris parts or the hassle of other seal issues in your output..... You can leave the pump run as you ski or try without it running i suggest leaving it run but you can wire it back to your battery and keep it on the on /off switch of your choice just find one that is clear to let you know what position it's in so you'll remember to turn it off when at rest or when your docking.
This is a proven method should work on any non fuel injected jet ski that's not getting fuel starving for gas ect. Ect. If as i stated before if no gas flow blow your lines backwards if it's clogged then take compressed air to open the system back up turn on your pump you should now have flow if the problem continues then you may want to change filters or the fuel lines and clean that tank I'm not a fan of the fuel filters where they are if i change mine out I'm going to run all straight line no inline filters where they were i only suggest you add one before the pump or after the pump just incase you do have any crap in your gas / pre mix and under the seat it's easier to clean or replace without removing your oil tank oh by the way i blocked off my oil pump and i noticed issues the small clamps weak and yes if the pump fails you will burn up your engine so word to the wise block it off and mix your oil and gas together. I never the carburetor throttle to the front slightly added a spring and the throttle is super great now the oil pump keeps that tension removing it you will need to add another spring watch that it don't hit the other cable beside it because it will the spring ride it so bend the connection on the carburetor and that will now give enough clearance to not bind the two when your riding your ski....
I know that was lengthy but hope it helps someone. I'm no pwc tech but i do work on jets automotive and small engine there's always a fix or way to rig something but until i find the parts i need reasonable i can ride my ski with ease of mind till i can properly fix everything 100 percent.
Any tips or tricks i welcome your input there's always something to learn it's sad Polaris don't sell parts any longer hopefully someone out there can source me to fair price parts new used and aftermarket so perhaps i can find more Polaris skis out there and restore them back to good if not great condition I'm not in it for sport or money.
My sl700 i bought for 100 piston gasket kit top end cost $225 recovered the seat 3 bucks repainted exhaust pipes they were corroded 20 bucks of heat paint used a automotive battery free and more cranking power just change your terminals to work with top post then use marine terminals for easy spin disconnect choke cable threads bad so iJB welded it so it stays tight and oiled cables for choke and throttle they were seized it's good to own a good vise pull one end hold the other in the vise work it free again after oiling it down with penetrating oil
Also I'm looking for a good cheep gas gauge under 20 bucks and are you needing a fix for your hydro turf go get that blue exercise mat i paid 5 bucks cut it down to fit and got contact cement glue the ski and the mat side worked the air out underneath and dam if it don't work and look 100 percent better than one small piece that's what was on mine
10-06-2013, 11:49 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
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