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Thread: Battery removal

  1. #1

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    Battery removal

    I was winterizing my 2012 GTR215 and 2013 GTI SE130 today and I always remove the batteries and bring inside in the winter months. I found myself struggling to get them out. They are caged in a cage that I don't now how to get them out of. I tried to remove the whole cage cage around it, but there are wires being plugged in to some modules, starter sol, and also the fuse block is attached. How do you remove. I can't believe that all of this crap has to be removed just to remove the battery. Please help!
    Last edited by SVANREES; 10-07-2013 at 09:39 PM.


  2. #2

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    I have 2013 GTX - the battery is under a cover at the rear right side. If yours is the same, I had a heck of a time getting mine out also. You snap the fuse box assy. off of th top of the battery and lay it forward, then use an extension & socket to remove 2 bolts & lift the battery out still in that "cage"

  3. #3

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    No, my is behind the front compartment under the steering wheel.

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    welcome to the new and improved battery system. No doubt it will be changed for 2015. It went from a back breaker to a hair puller in just a couple of model years. I like em in the back far more..this way I don't have to deal with storage containers and working on making spraks right in the area of the fuel tank.

    I have the better ideas for the battery area, but BRP isn't calling me for the advice this season. When they called last year, my half cousin's plumbers sisters boyfriend got on the phone yasee..


  5. #5

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    I find this one of the most stupid ideas I have ever seen. I have worked on trucks for 25 years and tinkered around autos for the same period and normally things make since. I will never make since of this cluster f###.
    I started removing the battery, struggling, looking to see if I was missing something about how remove, cussing, more cussing. I got the batt, in the cage, all the way out into the front compartment, all wires and cables removed except for one cable going to the solenoid. I stopped, said to myself, there has got to be a better way to remove this SOB and I needed to remove the other also. So I stopped, went inside for the night and was going to ask all my buddies on GREENHULK to help this idiot that can't even remove a battery. Now all I get is, welcome to the new and improved battery system. Man, what a bummer. So one has to go to all this trouble just to remove a battery. Now I am thinking I should put in a real good AGM battery so I won't have to remove for winter storage and will last longer without trouble. I can't imagine trying to remember how this will all go back together in the spring. I am thinking I should take pictures of the one I have not taken apart yet.

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    well always a good idea to take pictures. That's what I do when faced with something new and improved.

    I haven't seen a virgin one yet..allof th ones I've had the pleasure of working on had already been hammered out of shape and I try to do my best to get it all back in place safely. The plastic tabs are a joke.

    In the end..the 2 bolts deep in the battery area are your target..all the electric stuff they hung in the way..well deal with it best you can...don't damage the fusebox cover and wiring and have about 1-- assorted zipties to tidy the thin up when all done.

    if you want a real cluster f..try taking apart a handlebar cover to change an ignition post...I risked breaking a $100 part to avoid having to cut the handgrips off. Nice design right? Oh yeah..don't miss the hidden clip releases all around the handlebar pads....

    you should have seen me the first time I was presented with one of these. Of COURSE an agm battery went in after I found his old battery had dried up like a prune.

    I tack welded a socket and extension together just for these batteries now.

    Sorry I didn't have more then a wisecrack for you at first..we all feel the pain.

  7. #7

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    Sometimes wisecracks are the only thing left to keep us sane from working on these darn things. I really appreciate your words of encouragement and your frustrations also. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!

  8. #8
    blfuller's Avatar
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    So if one has a Deltran battery tender hooked up to the battery, does it still need to be removed or can it stay put? This would be over winter and being exposed to freezing temperatures.

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    as long as it is a AGM sealed battery with no vent hose connection it can be left on the charger all winter.

    anything else needs to have the electrolyte levels monitored

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blfuller View Post
    So if one has a Deltran battery tender hooked up to the battery, does it still need to be removed or can it stay put? This would be over winter and being exposed to freezing temperatures.
    Is your battery a sealed AGM type or a traditional liquid lead-acid battery?

    Is the battery tender temperature compensated? Does it adjust the charging voltage as temperature changes?

    If not, it will not be ideal for the battery all winter. The battery should survive, but perhaps not quite as well as it could be.

    A cold battery needs a different voltage profile than a warm battery.

    A suggestion that I recently encountered was to have the charger (battery tender) be powered up once every few weeks, maybe once per month. Just manually plug the battery tender in for a day once per month. This minimizes the degradation from overcharging with a non-temperature compensated battery charger.

    I have yet to find a long duration timer that could cycle the charger on once per month. All the timers I could find just had a one day or one week cycle.

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