Thread: Anyone have a VX110 Shop Manual?
10-14-2013, 12:38 PM #1
Anyone have a VX110 Shop Manual?
just picked up a busted 2011 VX110 Deluxe. I have a Clymer shop manual on the way from ebay but does anyone have a better 1? 7134446511 or email@example.com
10-14-2013, 06:16 PM #2
12-03-2013, 11:14 PM #3
Thank you very much kwtony! I must have missed the email alert with your reply? FINALLAY opened up the VX today using a paper manual. What P.I.T.A.! Worse yet, it is a Clymer. I will say that it is nice having explanations of cautions, tips etc but having to constantly refer back to other chapters to get from point A to point B is quite frustrating. Thank you very much!
12-03-2013, 11:47 PM #4
12-04-2013, 12:51 AM #5
I was saying that I already had a paper Clymer manual and it SUCKED to work with....but that the download that he provided was great. It is searchable. Maybe that wasn't clear? Thank you KWtony for the very usable download!
12-04-2013, 01:14 AM #6
12-04-2013, 08:58 AM #7
12-04-2013, 10:07 PM #8
Okay...so today I took the head into a great shop up in Livingston (Cutting Edge Motorsports) and Kenneth there took the camshafts off, sprayed carb cleaner into the intake on each and found no leaks and then sprayed it into the exhaust ports and only found a leak on the one valve on #2 that was stuck open. Then he removed the cover, shim, keepers, spring and we had to tap the valve out slowly about half way and then pull it out the rest of the way. The valve looked good and the stem appeared to be very very straight. He noticed that there was some rust on the top of the valve guide and thinks there is a bit of rust down the shaft of the valve guide. This would make sense since the previous owner claimed that the ski ran very well at the end of the 2012 riding season but when they started it up late in the 2013 season for the FIRST time it ran like crap. My thought is that when they fired it up late this year the #2 exhaust opened and stuck open due to the rust not letting it spring back?
IF this is the case, my next step will be to try to buy a new valve and somehow try to buff the valve guide clean of rust. Any suggestions? Is there anything small enough that can be run through the guide that will buff the walls clean again without jacking up the ID or is this an absolute situation where I need to have a new guide put in? If that is the case, I assume I will need a pro do the work since I pretty much had no idea what a camshaft, valve or valve cover was yesterday morning LOL (I'm a 2 stroke guy trying to make the move).
1. If I get a new exhaust valve do I need to get one specifically for the position 1 or 2 or are they the same?
2. I assume since my previous valve is very straight looking, I should be able to measure it top to bottom vs. the new one and then just figure out the difference in height and adjust the shim height to match the total that came out of the hole...then just check the spec after it is installed to make sure it is in tollerance.
3. Since I am new to this and really like to learn what I am dealing with, do you think there is a HUGE benefit to be gained by very carefully removing and cataloging the other valves...cleaning them each with ??? and re-installing each to start fresh? If so, what do I use to clean the valves off and the mating surfaces on the head? Just carb cleaner?
4. Timing SCARES the STUFF out of me right now. I did document the position of the cam gears position vs the chain when the front cylinder (cylinder #1 to the front of the motor...opposite end to the PTO (is that correct?)). I also took some pics of their position and a short video clip of the position. Then I marked the PTO and the case to make sure those stayed aligned during re-install. I have a bad feeling that this motor has been gone through before because the timing chain tensioner screw and the tensioner base gasket were both missing. My fear is that someone else already took these camshafts off and put them on incorrectly...so my marks might be bogus. I would rather treat this like as-if I had purchased 2 new camshafts and am starting over. To do this, I have the Clymer and the Midwest manual. If anyone has a copy of just the pages of the yamaha manual for the 08VX110 regarding timing adjustment I sure would love to have the factory advice as well. If not...I'm sure the other 2 sources will provide enough info.
Does anyone have a good video on the VX110 for how to adjust timing?
Here are my pics of the intake and exhaust cam gear positions when #1 was at TDC. It should be noted that the lobes on the #1 position were not identically opposing each other. The Intake lobe was facing outward to the intake at nearly exactly horizontal angle facing out. The exhaust lobe opposite to it was pointing out but more at an upward angle to the 2 oclock position. Shouldn't they both be horizontal facing outward if I am truly at TDC on #1?
On my photos I circled the factory dents with A and C lables.
My personal markings on the gear and the chain are marked with B and D.
12-16-2013, 04:46 PM #9
Let me just close out thelis thread with the answers that KWTony and Flipsfzr helped me with on a different...and more on topic header. Sorry about misdirecting my own thread btw.
Inside the head are the 2 cam shafts. One for the exhaust and one for the intake side. There are 3 covers on each camshaft that have a bunch of bolts holding the covers down. Position yourself so that you are facing the end of the camshafts with the timing chain gears on them. Now look at the front side of the rear cover on the left shaft (this is your intake shaft). On the front of that cover with 8 bolts holding it down there is a verticle scribed line right down the center of it. Look just at the top of the line and you will see an embossed arrow on the covers top surface. Notice they are lined up. Now look at the actual camshaft just below the verticle line. If your #1 cylinder is in the Top Dead Center position, there should be a small punch hole-like mark lined perfectly up to the line and arrow.
Now look at the right side camshaft (this is your exhaust camshaft). On the 2nd shaft cover from the front you will see the vertical line and the aarow. Match the punch hole to line up with the line and aarow.
Last edited by macGruber; 12-16-2013 at 04:48 PM. Reason: ad photos
12-17-2013, 06:43 AM #10
Hey, glad you are getting this thing fixed up. I read your text the other day about accidentally got an R1 valve and was unsure if it can be used. Sorry, i was dealing with someone put a nice hole in the bottom of my ski and was doing my very best to not drown him in the process...
The vx motor is the same block they put int he r1 bike, but i cannot say with any degree of certainty that it is the correct one. Im sure there is someone else on here that can help.
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