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  1. #1

    Angry Seadoo GTX fuel in crankcase

    I was given a 1995 GTX that hasn't run in 2 years. I was told it has a timing issue. Got it home, tried to crank it and it barely turned over. Removed the spark plugs and cranked again. Turned over no problem but shot fuel out all over the place. It had alot of nasty fuel in it. Had a grayish tint to it. Never saw that before. Drained the fuel tank and put fresh gas in. Took the carb off, cleaned everything really well and put it back together. It would fire up and stall over and over. Checked the rotary valve and it was right on. (147 degrees) Same results. Pulled the motor to check the flywheel to make sure it was in the right spot. It was. Cleaned the carb again. Same results after I reinstalled the motor. As I turned it over fuel was coming back thru the carbs. Checked the rotary valve about 10 times (not kidding) same results. Tried moving it 1 - 2 cogs to right and left. Same results. Checked the RV clearance. Right on. Removed the engine again, took the bottom end off to see if the brass gear was stripped. Perfect. Alot of fuel in the crankcase again. Could the stator be giving me a problem or the carb??? Internals look great by the way. Compression test 160 on both. First time working on a Seadoo. Rebuilt a two Kawasaki's. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!


  2. #2
    john zigler's Avatar
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    The RV valve, stator, brass crank gear etc have nothing to do with fuel in the motor. You need to REBUILD the carbs, not just clean them. Be sure to use genuine Mikuni brand kits, and replace the needle and seats. Set the RV back to original specs.

    I have seen cracked diaphragms in the fuel pump side allow fuel into the cases through the pulse line, and of course it could just be bad needle and seats.

    Sea Doo's are prone to fuel related issues. Replace all the fuel lines, and fuel select valve as well. Also check the one way tank valve, and make sure it is functioning properly.

  3. #3
    All of Johns recommendations are spot-on. You should do a pressure test of the carb after rebuilding it to make sure it doesn't leak.

  4. #4
    Cliff's Avatar
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    Check the exhaust to be sure there are no restrictions. Mice and birds like to build a home in there.

  5. #5
    Thanks for all the advice. Ordering the rebuild kits tonight. Took a closer look at the carbs and noticed the spring heights on the floats were different. Checked pop off pressures. PTO side was 15, MAG side was 20. I believe the minimum is 19 on both but I have to look it up. Thanks again. I will post the results.

  6. #6
    Make sure you are checking both pop off and static pressures with the covers on. You can get some interference that results in a leaker and you wont know this if you check pressures with the covers off.

  7. #7
    Good to know. I was checking it with the covers off. Thanks.

  8. #8
    Rebuilt the carbs, pop off pressures both at 25, set low to 1 1/4 and high to 1/4. Set timing to 147. No more excessive fuel in cylinders. Now it has an extremely rough idle and no throttle response. Have fuel coming up through MAG carb instead of being sucked in. PTO carb seems to be fine. Have to be doing something wrong.

  9. #9
    john zigler's Avatar
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    No need to start separate threads....... It makes it hard for people to follow your problems.

    Did you replace both needles and seats? Did you use genuine MIKUNI brand parts, ( not cheap aftermarket kits?)

    Try running with a spark tester, I wonder if you are dropping acyl spark wise. Take the plug boots off, and cut the wires back 1/4 inch or so. Try a new set of spark plugs. MAKE SURE to gap them at .024.

  10. #10
    My friends Gsx had the same problem its still at the repair shop so I can tell you what it was when it gets back.

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