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  1. #1

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    2001 Polaris Genesis Reverse gate doesn't work.

    I have a 2001 Polaris Genesis with carbs. The bilge switch and the reverse gate switch are not working.
    I have traced the wiring harness and will be unplugging each connection and spraying electrical contact cleaner in them next. I unfortunately don't have a wiring diagram to go by for the change in the harness under the hull. I have again traced handlebar switch wires and found them to be black and orange paired together for forward, then blue/white and green /white paired together and doubling up somewhere under the hull....for reverse...the latter pair I have found coming out of the harness and continuing to the reverse motor box in the rear of the hull with two other wires....gray/red and a black wire....don't know where those two are from yet. Does anybody have any suggestions? I have little knowledge of how to use a voltage/ohm meter, but can tell when I have
    DC voltage. My question is really where to start testing the system....at the switch?...and should I be looking for 12 volts?
    Sorry guys...I'm old school.... "shade tree" mechanic. Can I just bypass the switch at the connector to activate it? If it doesn't work there? Should I go straight to the motor? The harness connecting that can be checked for power I'm sure....but which wires? As I said.....There are two sets..... Blue/white and green/white striped paired...times two...it started at the switch only one set of those....somewhere under the hull it becomes two sets of the green/white and blue/white and then runs with the gray/red striped and the black wire to the motor box. The orange "seems" to go from the handlebar switch into the coil box....and then to a fuse...fuse looks fine.
    The black....I assume is the same black running to the motor box, but not having a diagram, I'm not sure...this is all by sight....I'm just guessing.
    The motor box looks extremely difficult to remove....is it?
    And, lastly...if it is the motor/actuator ...what kind of price am I looking at...rough ballpark?
    ooh, sorry...one more...can I simply convert this to a mechanical system from parts off.. say...a 2001 Virage?
    Last edited by SeaMore DooMore; 10-19-2013 at 09:24 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Start with the obvious, the Bilge pump. The bilge pump and reverse motor use the same power source, the Orange wires inside the electrical box.

    The LR module provides power to the Orange wires when the engine is running. The Bilge switch overrides the LR module and directly connects the Orange wire terminal cluster (in the electrical box) to battery power. Battery power comes through the Reset Button circuit breaker(s).

    Just as important are the black wire ground connections. Make sure all the black wire connections are undamaged and there is zero corrosion inside the electrical box. Going from fuzzy memory, I think your Genesis may have two electrical boxes. One may be in the forward area of the hull, possibly behind a bulkhead cover. Follow the wires from the bilge pump.

    You will find more resources via my signature links.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Start with the obvious, the Bilge pump. The bilge pump and reverse motor use the same power source, the Orange wires inside the electrical box.

    The LR module provides power to the Orange wires when the engine is running. The Bilge switch overrides the LR module and directly connects the Orange wire terminal cluster (in the electrical box) to battery power. Battery power comes through the Reset Button circuit breaker(s).

    Just as important are the black wire ground connections. Make sure all the black wire connections are undamaged and there is zero corrosion inside the electrical box. Going from fuzzy memory, I think your Genesis may have two electrical boxes. One may be in the forward area of the hull, possibly behind a bulkhead cover. Follow the wires from the bilge pump.

    You will find more resources via my signature links.
    I have power to the bilge pump...I think. I'm showing 1.52 on my voltage meter inside the E box. I have checked the fuses. They are good and I have 12+ volts on one of the two fuses in the box.
    The other fuse which is the power source for the bilge shows 1.52.
    the box is clean....REAL clean. No corrosion inside, surprisingly. I checked for power at the handlebar switch...can't seem to get anything. The forward/reverse switch is easy to disassemble, but I can't figure out where to touch it for checking power. I get nothing anywhere I make contact. Same thing for the bilge.
    probes won't fit into the back of the switch where the wires enter. The only option is to disassemble the switch. Did so last night, still can't figure out where to touch probes to check for power. Switches are spring loaded "button" in a recessed housing. The casing for the switch has a flat metal "bar" running in a figure eight around the two spring contacts wells. I would assume the power would be on the bar.....nothing reads on voltage. I'm going to check for power behind the switch buy sticking a pin through the wire where it enters the switch when I get off work today.
    I haven't found the second box you spoke of.
    Is there a way to perhaps apply external power source to the motor box and activate the gate?
    or, as I asked in my previous posting, can I convert this system to a mechanical system
    Last edited by SeaMore DooMore; 10-20-2013 at 08:43 AM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I would be checking wires and switch continuity from inside the electrical box, not at the switches. I would not have started by pulling the switches apart. Way easier to access the wires inside the electrical box.

    Look for a module inside the electrical box with both Yellow and Orange wires coming out, along with a bunch of others. Only the LR module will have a Yellow wire. If there is no such module inside the electrical box, then there is another box elsewhere in the hull. Look inside the front storage area. Is there a bulkhead on the rear wall, with screws holding the cover in place? Look behind that bulkhead cover.

    Is your 2001 Genesis fuel injected or carburetor?

    1.52 volts is just electrical 'leakage'. It indicates that either the bilge pump fuse is blown and/or the bilge pump itself is not actually connected and grounded. OR it means the LR module is going bad, if the bilge pump is in fact properly connected and the fuse is good. My guess is the 3 Amp bilge fuse is bad or pump is not properly connected or grounded.

    The bilge fuse will only show power when the engine is running OR the Bilge button is held down (engine off). If full battery voltage does not appear at the fuse when the Bilge button is pressed, trace that. The Bilge button directly connects between Orange (Accessory power) and Red/Purple (battery power, via circuit breaker).

    Make sure there is full battery voltage at both terminals of the circuit breakers, while the Bilge button is pressed.

  5. #5

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    It's carbed...
    I am checking in the box...have power to both fuses in the box.
    The box is super clean!
    There is a bulkhead in the front, I've removed the panel....no box in front.
    Where else would the bilge fuse be?
    The LR module is there in the box. It has the yellow wire coming out of the box and splitting off in two separate ways out of the box via the harness. The other wires coming out are....red/black stripe, and the orange that supplies power to the fuse...same fuse I get 1.52 volts on and has the bilge connected to the same fuse bridge. The red/black striped wire goes to the other fuse bridge that has 12+ volts. on the meter. Haven't traced the other wires yet.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaMore DooMore View Post
    It's carbed...
    I am checking in the box...have power to both fuses in the box.
    The box is super clean!
    There is a bulkhead in the front, I've removed the panel....no box in front.
    Where else would the bilge fuse be?
    The LR module is there in the box. It has the yellow wire coming out of the box and splitting off in two separate ways out of the box via the harness. The other wires coming out are....red/black stripe, and the orange that supplies power to the fuse...same fuse I get 1.52 volts on and has the bilge connected to the same fuse bridge. The red/black striped wire goes to the other fuse bridge that has 12+ volts. on the meter. Haven't traced the other wires yet.
    Well, it would seem you are looking inside the correct electrical box, since it has both the LR module and the two fuses.

    When you press the Bilge button does the voltage on the small 3 Amp fuse jump up to full battery voltage? If not, that is the thing to trace. Find the Red/Purple wire that feeds to the Bilge switch. Make sure it actually has battery voltage. Then the Orange wire that comes back from the switch. Should have battery voltage when button is pressed.

    Note that a bad fuse can look OK but not actually be good. Remove the fuse and check it for ohms (resistance). Fuse should measure zero ohms (out of the fuse holder).

  7. #7

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    Ok, I've checked the power between the red/purple coming from the circuit breaker and the orange on the other end of the fuse bridge. Power is there. Regardless of pressing the bilge button. I checked at the orange/black terminal on that same bridge and have same power and again at the plug for the pump, still shows power.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaMore DooMore View Post
    Ok, I've checked the power between the red/purple coming from the circuit breaker and the orange on the other end of the fuse bridge. Power is there. Regardless of pressing the bilge button.

    I checked at the orange/black terminal on that same bridge and have same power and again at the plug for the pump, still shows power.
    Please be clear what 'power' means. Voltage numbers are important.

    The only voltages that matter are full battery voltage (12.x volts, typically) and near zero volts (for grounds). Intermediate voltages like 1.x volts are just electrical leakage and not 'power'.

    All voltage measurements are with Black meter probe to engine ground (a bare metal bolt on the actual engine).

    Not sure what you mean by power between Red/Purple and Orange.


    Orange/Black is the power feed to the bilge pump. If there is full battery voltage on Orange/Black then the bilge pump should be running. Unless the bilge pump is broken or the ground connection from the bilge pump is bad.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Let's try it this way. Post the voltage measured between engine ground (Black meter probe) and each of the following.

    Note: Check each connection with and without pressing the Bilge button;

    Black terminal strip in the electrical box. Should read zero volts all the time.

    Red/Purple terminal strip (Should read full battery voltage all the time)

    Orange terminal strip where LR module connects (Should read full battery voltage when Bilge button is pressed, zero volts when button is not pressed)

    Orange/Black wire terminal (same as Orange wire above)

    Yellow wire terminal (should read full battery voltage all the time)

    Metal tab on the actual LR module (should read zero volts all the time)

  10. #10

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    Black terminal is 0 volts
    Red/purple reads 14.61
    Orange reads 0.49 (leakage) without bilge button pressed. No change when button is pressed.
    Yellow reads 14.61
    Metal tab on LR module is 0
    Orange black to the bilge pump reads 0.45


    I have the same issue with the forward/reverse switch....needing to trace it out too. That's where all this thread started.
    Any suggestion for that?

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