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  1. #1

    2000 Genesis weak spark

    I apologize as I see this is a common topic but after 2 days of searching I can't find my answers.

    i am working on a 2000 Genesis 1200 carbed model. It had a malfunctioning breaker switch and the owner had bypassed it. Now it has very weak spark when testing with an inline spark tester. Fires intermittently if you continuously crank it over about once every 20 seconds.

    Found a corroded connection at the fuse for the instrument cluster which has been repaired.

    Ive done all the ohm testing in the service manual for the stator, wires, and coil and everything is as it should be.

    The CDI service bulletin wire update has been done and it appears that the regulator is working properly.

    The questions I have are;
    1- what voltage should I expect from the CDI to the coil?
    2- is there any way to bench test the CDI if I remove it completely to see if it's faulty?


  2. #2
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    First think is to check your battery. It must provide at least 10.6 volts while cranking. Test with a volt meter directly on the battery. Probably just needs a new battery. Deka AGM is all I will ever use now. They are a very strong battery.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbar View Post
    I apologize as I see this is a common topic but after 2 days of searching I can't find my answers.

    i am working on a 2000 Genesis 1200 carbed model. It had a malfunctioning breaker switch and the owner had bypassed it. Now it has very weak spark when testing with an inline spark tester. Fires intermittently if you continuously crank it over about once every 20 seconds.

    Found a corroded connection at the fuse for the instrument cluster which has been repaired.

    Ive done all the ohm testing in the service manual for the stator, wires, and coil and everything is as it should be.

    The CDI service bulletin wire update has been done and it appears that the regulator is working properly.

    The questions I have are;
    1- what voltage should I expect from the CDI to the coil?
    2- is there any way to bench test the CDI if I remove it completely to see if it's faulty?
    Welcome

    Seeing a spark every so many seconds during cranking suggests either a weak battery or the lanyard kill signal is grounding. Unplug the Black/Yellow wire that connects CDI to terminal board. See if you now have spark.

    A related possibility is a failed LR-505 Start/Stop module. Bypass the LR module for testing.

    As Bryan said it is critical that the battery provide strong voltage while cranking. Check the voltage right at the CDI, Red/Purple to Black wires to the CDI. Must be well above 10.6 volts or no spark.

  4. #4
    Battery producing over 11.2 volts during cranking. And just to be sure I even put a boost on it during some of my testing to be sure it wasn't dropping into the 10 volt range.
    Fuel is present as it keeps flooding when I turn it over.
    Can't see spark on plug when it pull it out and ground it on the block but inline tester is showing very weak spark.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbar View Post
    Battery producing over 11.2 volts during cranking. And just to be sure I even put a boost on it during some of my testing to be sure it wasn't dropping into the 10 volt range.
    Fuel is present as it keeps flooding when I turn it over.
    Can't see spark on plug when it pull it out and ground it on the block but inline tester is showing very weak spark.
    Do the LR bypass and Kill wire disconnect.

    If still no spark, the CDI may be bad. Or possibly the stator has a problem that the ohm checks did not reveal.

    Did you confirm 8 volts out of the CDI on Brown wire (bullet connector) when cranking?

  6. #6
    Also had looked at bypassing the regulator but it says to use the non LR black/white wire (which I do not have). There is only 1 black and white wire in my box which is connected to the ignition coil.
    There are 2 pairs of black/yellow wires. Neither of them connect to a terminal. 1 black and yellow goes to CDI and the other goes to the LR.

  7. #7
    Yes there were 8.75 volts present on brown wire during cranking to activate hall sensors.

  8. #8
    And I had 4-5 volts from the exciter coil during cranking.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbar View Post
    Also had looked at bypassing the regulator but it says to use the non LR black/white wire (which I do not have). There is only 1 black and white wire in my box which is connected to the ignition coil.

    There are 2 pairs of black/yellow wires. Neither of them connect to a terminal. 1 black and yellow goes to CDI and the other goes to the LR.
    The wires from the external start solenoid should be Yellow/Red and Black/White. The Black/White should go directly to the LR module.

    That Black/Yellow wire to the CDI is the ignition kill signal into the CDI, and this is the one to unplug for a test. The Black/Yellow wire from the LR module is the signal from the Stop button on the handlebar, which gets processed by the LR module before getting to the CDI.

    Since you have already found one wire which was not properly connected, I am concerned that other wires may not be in stock configuration.

  10. #10
    Tried unplugging the yellow/black to the CDI. No change.

    This is the odd thing I keep finding no matter what I have done so far.

    Voltages from the CDI to the ignition in the blk/blue, blk/grn, blk/white begin around 50-60 volts when you start cranking. If you hold the crank button the voltages creep up to 70-85. Once the hit 85-90 the spark plugs fire. As soon as it fires the voltage drops to 50 again and the process is repeated.

    Also I should add that before disconnecting anything I tried pulling the lanyard off while cranking and it killed the voltage completely to the ignition.
    Last edited by Kbar; 10-22-2013 at 07:09 AM.

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