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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow What is inside a Polaris Ficht EMM, computer/logic/ignition/injector driver board

    This is the companion to the EMM power board, documented over here.

    This is the main 'brain' of the Ficht EMM. It contains a lot of electronics, densely layered onto both sides of the circuit board.

    As with the power board, it is normally completely encapsulated within an annoyingly sticky and soft gel sealant. Extracting the board involves removing a bunch of screws, scraping and peeling most of the visible gel sealant away, then levering the board out of the metal casing without breaking anything.

    Once all the sticky gel is cleaned off, it looks like this.
    Note: Higher resolution images can be found here.

    This is the 'top' side of the computer board, which is what you see when you first open the metal cover side of the EMM.

    Along the back edge (opposite the big 40-pin EMM connector) are the components that need heavy cooling. Before disassembly these were screwed and clamped to the surface of water cooling manifold that runs through the core of the EMM. Once side of the cooling flow cools the power board, the other side of the integral water jacket cools these seven components arrayed along the edge of the main board.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Note the Orange rubber tube sticking up from the board. This is the inlet for atmospheric air pressure sensor, which breathes through a small hole in the EMM's metal cover plate.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the 'bottom' side of the EMM main board. This is where a lot of the 'power' electronics reside.


    The infamous C89 capacitor;
    10,000uF at 6.3 volts, 105C temperature rating
    16mm diameter, 40mm body length, Axial leads
    There is probably enough room for a replacement capacitor as large as 20mm x 50mm

    Too bad it is buried on the bottom side of the main board. Makes it hard to get at for replacement
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Close-up of the air pressure sensor. The actual sensor is on the bottom side of the main board.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ficht EMM 40-pin connector. It is important that these pins be free of corrosion and undamaged.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Molded into the back is
    DRC23-40P-N009
    Deutsch I.P.D.
    USA
    Last edited by K447; 06-29-2014 at 09:11 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    More photos.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The yellow C43 capacitor was folded down flat in manufacture, I turned it upright to see the label and surrounding components.
    0.68uF at 500 volts DC.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    C38 100uF at 100 volts (electrolytic)
    C7 68uF at 100 volts (electrolytic)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I flipped the orange vent tube out of the way to better show what is nearby on the board.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by K447; 10-23-2013 at 10:05 PM.

  4. #4
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Very interesting Doc..... So what's the verdict? Are they repairable by someone with the right knowledge? Or does it take DFI with fancy whiz bang test equiptment? I think I have a old P90 computer that looks close to that..

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    .... So what's the verdict? Are they repairable by someone with the right knowledge?

    Or does it take DFI with fancy whiz bang test equiptment?

    I think I have a old P90 computer that looks close to that..
    For many electronic 'SMD capable component level' repair technitions the information I am posting is enough to allow them to replace obviously failed individual components. That may be all that is needed in many cases.

    Documenting an undamaged Ficht EMM allows people to compare with their own failed board, in particular to identify components which have become charred and have unreadable part numbers.


    I do not know what equipment DFI has, or whether much of it is specialized.

    DFI has the experience to (presumably) rapidly diagnose commonly recurring problems and indentify specific repair areas. I presume they can also identify and repair some types of failures which do not have visible indicators (nothing visibly burned, but the EMM is not working properly).

    I would also expect DFI to have effective and efficient methods for extracting the boards and doing the actual repairs.


    Tip: Copy off any data/photos/documents you think is still valuable, then get rid of that ancient P90 computer! Old computer gear is rarely useful, it just takes up space and wastes energy even thinking about it.

  6. #6
    What parts usually fail when fuel pump Eli control does not work and what part is the fuel pump control spark?

  7. #7
    Just removed my emm from my ski. Have the boards almost out. Suspect the processor chip was overheated as the gel was separated from it and looked like cracked glass around it.
    I did work as a repair tech for cisco systems so hopeing the soldering skills are still good enough for smt.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failedmsx View Post
    Just removed my emm from my ski. Have the boards almost out. Suspect the processor chip was overheated as the gel was separated from it and looked like cracked glass around it.

    I did work as a repair tech for cisco systems so hoping the soldering skills are still good enough for smt.
    The gel around the Hitachi processor often looks different from the other areas of the board. If the CPU was seriously overheated it would probably have failed completely, not repairable.

    Component failure usually happens elsewhere, but it is possible for cracked solder joints to occur on some of those tiny solder pads. Fragile to repair without some prior experience with these thin chip wires.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The gel around the Hitachi processor often looks different from the other areas of the board. If the CPU was seriously overheated it would probably have failed completely, not repairable.

    Component failure usually happens elsewhere, but it is possible for cracked solder joints to occur on some of those tiny solder pads. Fragile to repair without some prior experience with these thin chip wires.
    mine has problem about injector or ignition timing,im sure its about ecu i tried with another.
    I have electronic skills , which ics or components can cause this problem do you have any idea?
    my ecu is not working when i resoldered mcu middle of the circuit it started to work but its not passing more than 6200 rpm and bad timig too.
    what did u used for clear circuit ? i used thinner, its ok but not well as yours.
    thx already bro

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    For many electronic 'SMD capable component level' repair technitions the information I am posting is enough to allow them to replace obviously failed individual components. That may be all that is needed in many cases.

    Documenting an undamaged Ficht EMM allows people to compare with their own failed board, in particular to identify components which have become charred and have unreadable part numbers.


    I do not know what equipment DFI has, or whether much of it is specialized.

    DFI has the experience to (presumably) rapidly diagnose commonly recurring problems and indentify specific repair areas. I presume they can also identify and repair some types of failures which do not have visible indicators (nothing visibly burned, but the EMM is not working properly).

    I would also expect DFI to have effective and efficient methods for extracting the boards and doing the actual repairs.


    Tip: Copy off any data/photos/documents you think is still valuable, then get rid of that ancient P90 computer! Old computer gear is rarely useful, it just takes up space and wastes energy even thinking about it.

    Hmmmm . . . can you please tell me what you used to remove the aliphatic polyurethane potting compound? Obviously you start with picking out the bigger chunks, but it looks like you used some sort of board wash.

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