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  1. #1

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    2002 Virage 1200TXi fuel tank removal

    Hi all! I hope some one can help. I have a 2002 Virage 1200 TXI.

    I filled it up with gas ready for our first trip of the new season and then noticed gas in the bottom of the hull. I traced the leak to a split in the top of the tank where all the intank bits and pieces go in. There apears to be a large screw cap that hold all the bits and pieces and the split is at the bottom of the threaded section of the tank. It looks like a manufacturing defect as the plastic is very thin.

    My questions are, can it be repaired and can the fuel tank be removed via the front hatch?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas. Mike.
    Last edited by K447; 10-26-2013 at 10:58 AM.


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    typically these fuel tanks cannot be repaired..if there is a way I haven't heard about it or seen a repair that actually held.

    Our resident Polaris Gurus should be along to indicate which way the tank has to come out, but it's going to be a headache either way.

    The couple of smaller tanks I've done have swelled over the years and were extremely tight coming out.

    In the meantime..might as well start draining the tank....

  3. #3
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    A plastic welder could repair the tank. I bought a kit for repairing cracks in the seats that are used on the 98 and later SLX. Worked awesome on the seat base. Would probably be cheaper to source another tank though. I have never removed the tank on a virage but on a sltx im pretty sure the motor needs to come out.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Remove and replace a Virage fuel tank

    Welcome

    If the fuel tank will come out the front hatch at all, it will be very tight. It has been a while since I messed with my own Virage TXi fuel tank.

    Disconnect the battery negative cable, then drain the tank completely, first.
    Apply all cautions appropriate when working with gasoline.

    If the oil tank is full, you may want to drain it too.

    Disconnect sender connectors from both oil tank and gas tank. The fuel tank connector has a red slide tab that must be moved before you can squeeze the release catch and unplug it.

    Disconnect the fuel tank hoses. Vent hose has a quick disconnect, but the other two hoses are clamped onto semi-fragile plastic nipples. If you break those nipples you will need to replace the fuel pump. The better approach might be to cut the fuel hoses near the tank and replace with new hoses with the new tank.

    Remove all three rubber tank straps. Note that these straps will be a fight to reinstall. They unhook at the hull mount ends.

    Move the big vent hoses up and out of your way. Make notes regarding where everything was before you begin. Digital photos are a good thing, lots of them.

    Disconnect the oil tank filler hose from the oil tank. Put a small plastic bag over the tank opening and wrap a rubber band around to keep the oil inside, and keep dirt out.

    Lift the oil tank vertically up until it just clears the fuel tank, then slide it rearwards. There should be room to tilt it down at the back and lean it to one side next to the front of the engine, somewhat out of the way. Note that oil may seep out around the oil level sender rubber plug, so wrap some rags around and under the oil tank if it not empty.

    Disconnect the fuel tank filler hose.

    Now the fuel tank should be free to shift around.

    You may find the reverse level mechanism to be in the way, try not to damage the switch on the bottom.

    If you slide the fuel tank as far forward as it will go, you may be able to get the fuel pump assembly wiggled up and out of the tank. That will allow you to swab up the fuel dregs from the bottom of the tank.

    At this point it should be obvious whether the fuel tank will fit through the front opening. If yes, try not to break anything while wrestling with it

    If it will not fit, or you just don't want to fight that battle, then the engine must come out. Not as bad as it sounds, just take your time. There are guides and other threads describing the process.

    While you have the fuel system apart, read up on the fuel pressure regulator repair that is common for all Polaris Ficht models.

    See my signature links for additional useful info.

    While the fuel tank and engine are out, thoroughly cleaning the hull interior is easy and makes working inside the hull less unpleasant. Tilt the nose of the trailer up as high as you can get it to aid in draining. I use a mixture of household regular bleach and simple green to remove mold and mildew. Wear old clothes and eye protection. Do not inhale the bleach mist. Let it soak for a while, then rinse the hull thoroughly.

    When reinstalling, this would be an opportunity to refresh all the fuel hoses. Old hoses tend to get hard over time. Fuel leaks or even minor seepage are not a good thing inside these enclosed PWC hulls.
    Last edited by K447; 05-07-2014 at 06:53 PM.

  5. #5

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    locktite makes a glue that will work on fuel tanks.i cant remember the # but snowmobile manufactures used it when filler necks were cracking

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    in regards to dealing with tank straps, it's pretty handy to take your poor excuse for a screwdriver once you decided it was a better prybar and grind a notch into the middle of it to extend your reach and leverage when fussing with the tank straps. I have a full selection of these since I don't like dealing with battery straps either

    I actually filed away about 1/4 inch all around the front storage opening on the fuel tank I did in order to slide it out...some bearing grease is helpful also. The tank had bulged from years of holding pressure and that's what made it tough to remove.

    Be carful not to drop anything into the hull and it can't be said enough..working with fuel tanks is hazardous..empty ones actually pose slightly more risk due to the presence of fumes after the fuel is drained out. Certainly a job I would not rush..drain the tank..let the tank air out for a day or so..then proceed.

    Big hoses are a pain to deal with..lots of silicon spray helps get them off the spigots.

    and of course big+ 1 on taking pics..lots of em to help when you are scratching your head about which way stuff is supposed to go.

    Considering the labor issues, I'd suggest a used tank..if you cannot find one that works for you then you could pursue the plastic welding route, but with all respects Bryan, I wouldn't go that way unless I had the last decent tank on the planet. 11 year old plastic that has spent it's life exposed to fuel/heat and vibration rates about as much trust as a stripper named daisy who wants to borrow my car to run home for a few minutes for some fresh outfits

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    in regards to dealing with tank straps, it's pretty handy to take your poor excuse for a screwdriver once you decided it was a better prybar and grind a notch into the middle of it to extend your reach and leverage when fussing with the tank straps. I have a full selection of these since I don't like dealing with battery straps either...
    Like this, available from Watcon.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    While the rubber straps are out of the hull I rub them down using silicone spray lube. Not only does it remove the white film and make the strap rubber look like new, the slight slipperiness helps with getting the straps back in place. Less friction against the tank allows me to get the strap down onto the hook in the hull with less bad words.

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rr44red View Post
    locktite makes a glue that will work on fuel tanks.i cant remember the # but snowmobile manufactures used it when filler necks were cracking
    Well I sniffed around a little and found this "stuff"

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epx...tic-Bonder.htm

    not for polypropylene, which is what I believe these tanks are made from if my memory is good.

    in a pinch I'm sure it would hold up..but the surprise factor involved when the tank starts leaking again is just too risky due to the enclosed space, which is not present on most snowmobiles.

    The tank I replaced had about a half gallon of JB weld applied over the spot where the oil tank bracket bolted into a nut captured at the tank and it STILL leaked fuel

    be a different story of the tanks were made out of a different material.

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I can ( and do) buy 20 screwdriver at harbor freight for the price of that one specialty tool, gone are the days of my wallet flattening snap-on drivers.

    Nice that is shows the Polaris rubbers however. I like the really long 45-90 degree need nose for straps also.

    My fiberglass splinter percentages are way down since I started using these kind of helpers.

    next question should be..who's got a good tank..and does it need to be "down under" ( just a swag based on the user name)

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rr44red View Post
    locktite makes a glue that will work on fuel tanks.i cant remember the # but snowmobile manufactures used it when filler necks were cracking
    I will concur with nmpeter that replacing the tank is probably a safer and more reliable repair than trying to seal the thin cracked plastic at the pump neck.

    Tip: The MSX 140 fuel tank should also fit and has a few more liters of fuel capacity, according to the published specs.

    Obviously any year fuel injected Virage i or Virage TXi fuel tank will work. Carburetor Virage use a different fuel tank with a smaller fuel sender opening.

    Some Freedoms have the same tank as the injected Virages. Check the Polaris Industries online parts cross reference to confirm the part numbers.

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