View Poll Results: Honda Aquatrax F-12 Hull Bearing Replacement

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  1. #1

    04 Honda F-12 Hull Bearing Replacement:

    Need help understanding how to remove Coupling from Shaft. I have the pump bolts removed, hull bearing shroud removed, 3 nuts and washers removed, and the shaft slides back easily from the coupling (the big metal pieces that connect the shaft to the engine crankshaft/outdrive (or whatever its called... the pieces with the star-shaped bushing.

    My issue is removing the shaft side Gear/Coupling. I am afraid of stripping the bolt head holding the coupling to the shaft. Is it reverse threaded? Should I be using a 14mm socket? ANYONE WITH EXPERIENCE OUT THERE, all help appreciated
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  2. #2
    AWA MEMBER
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    You need to loosen the motor mounts and slide the motor forward......then when you assemble you will need to feeler gauge the coupler to assure the proper engine to coupler alignment.....it can be difficult

  3. #3

    Turns out it's not really all that hard....

    Quote Originally Posted by RickWhite View Post
    You need to loosen the motor mounts and slide the motor forward......then when you assemble you will need to feeler gauge the coupler to assure the proper engine to coupler alignment.....it can be difficult
    RickWhite - thanks for the input but I didn't find that I needed to do anything with the motor mounts or feeler gauges.

    It turns out it's not that hard at all to remove the bolt from the jetpump shaft after all! It just takes a little extra leverage from a 'breaker-bar" or short length of pipe on the end of the ratchet. The bolt holding the "yoke" (I originally referred to it as a "Gear" due to my ignorance) is not reverse threaded, it was just extremely tight. I used a very large crescent/adjustable wrench to hold the yoke from behind and squeezed the a 14mm short socket on a 3/8" ratchet on the head of the bolt. I then had my son hold the wrench while I added a 12" length of 1/2" gas pipe over the handle of the ratchet for leverage and with a little muscle managed to pop the bolt loose. Once loose it unthreaded very easily by hand. The yoke slides off effortlessly after that. From there replacing the Hull Bearing was a snap. The only tricky part was making a small slit in the rubber boot of the old hull bearing and then using a flat blade screwdriver to work it loose from the sealant applied at the factory. Make sure to use a little grease to help getting the new boot over the connection and then don't forget the hose clamp and you'll be good to go on that part.

    I skipped the first part of this job... you do need to disassemble the "reverse gate" assembly to pull/slide the jet pump back which disengages the back yoke half from the front yoke half.

    All in All about a 2-3 hour job at most for an intermediate Do-It-Yourself'er

  4. #4
    AWA MEMBER
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    Awesome......I guess I took that extra step.....LOL I had my motor out so I was not sure.....GLAD IT WORKED OUT!

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