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  1. #1
    Mothman's Avatar
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    Starter kicks out quickly

    Ok, new engine buttoned up with 11:1 CP's, and as I thought, they're dragging down the starter pretty good.
    The starter will only spin for a half second to a second before it kicks out. It won't fire and the plugs are wet. I've cleaned eight to ten times and replaced them twice, but still won't fire. I'm using 100LL fuel (burns great in a high comp bike and my crappy lawn mower).
    I didn't have a chance to put a volt meter on it while trying to spin it, but I will Sunday.
    My fingers are crossed for a bad/weak battery (but I think it would throw a low volt code for that, right?).
    What do you guys think? I need some help.


  2. #2

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    a new oem starter relay never hurts. A new agm deka 30 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLISTIC-EV...item3f1e2113f5

    clean all connections and verify cables as being corrosion free-- replace if questionable.

  3. #3
    Mothman's Avatar
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    I didn't think about the relay. Would a faulty relay cause it to stop turning the engine over and spin freely? I'll put it on the list of things to check. I like that battery. A bit pricey, but nice.
    Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Sounds like a weak battery to me. You can test the solenoid by bridging the 2 terminals on it. And if starts, then that's your problem.

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    without a voltmeter even the best guess has a 98.9% chance of making your throw away money and time. Best to throw money away on a good voltmeter. Then we need, standing and cranking voltages for a "betterer" guess. Video w/sound won't hurt either. Not that having a spare solenoid in your parts bin is really a waste of money..cause after hours and on holidays, you can't just go to walmart and buy one.

  6. #6
    Mothman's Avatar
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    Everything is checking out... which is worrying me.
    Connections look good. Battery is ok, replaced anyway with an Odyssey 500cca bike battery. Will turn over somewhat faster, but will still kick out after a second or so, as if it wants to try, but doesn't. It's weird. Cylinder two and three plugs are no longer wet, but cylinder one remains very wet--as if the electrode was dipped in fuel. I changed injectors and still have wet plugs. Adjusted fuel pressure, reloaded map, still ain't starting.
    Spark is strong too.
    I don't have compression numbers since I cannot find the adapter and every damn auto/tool store doesn't have one. Where did you guys get yours? I borrowed the last one.
    Is 100LL av gas difficult to fire up cold? I may empty the fuel tank and try 93-5 or so.
    Still no codes either.
    What is the firing order? I don't think it can be 'off', but I'm running out of options.
    I'm lost.
    Any help will be greatly appreciated!

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    we're still guessing till we know exactly what the voltage situation is.

    Your plug is wet from fuel ( a leaky injector) or coolant (bad head gasket)

    The starter clutch may be having some issues. might have been an idea to replace it while the engine was apart.

    The clutch should only disengage when the flywheel speed exceeds the starter speed..when it "kicks out" that's typically a bad clutch..but again..without a voltmeter in the game, I'm staying on the bench..it's too far of a walk to left field for this old salt.

    Have you tried cranking it with one plug out? ( disconnect the matching injector so you don't set yourself on fire.)

    You can try that an if the engine starts, you're going to need to do something about a better starter system.

    I'm going to assume this engine was not tossed together on a friday night and somebody left the flywheel key out.

    I can't comment on the fuel situation, but from what I know of aircraft fuel starting is the least of it's problems.

  8. #8
    Mothman's Avatar
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    I cranked it with all three out and it spins just fine, which is why I get the feeling it's somewhat 'trying', which allows the starter to kick out. The voltmeter shows 13.5-6 on the new battery, and the old was 13.45-5.
    I'll try it without the cylinder 1 plug tomorrow when I'm back at the shop.
    Thanks for the help!

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    watch the voltage numbers while cranking. If there is a big drop right before the starter clutch releases you need to check the ignition timing..could be too advanced. the engine firing due to advanced timing and ignition before actual TDC could force the crank in reverse of normal direction and it only takes a millisecond of that for the starter clutch to release, which drove my comment regarding the flywheel key.

    Getting any signs of combustion at all ( little wisps of smoke when you pull a plug for example?)

    the two plug test should provide good data.

  10. #10
    Mothman's Avatar
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    I didn't think about timing. There are telltale signs of combustion with a tiny bit of smoke. I had issues getting it to line up correctly, and it may be in the most advanced setting. I'll retard it and give it a shot. As far as the flywheel key, I have no idea what it is. I used the manual for reference like my previous build, so I'm 99% certain everything is correct. The 1% has bitten me before though. lol
    Thanks again!

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