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  1. #1
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    pump bearings removal tips

    I sent k447 a pm with some bearings questions, posting this here so everyone can benefit.

    Original message sent to K447:

    Hi K447,


    Sorry to bother you with this but I'm just lost trying to replace my bearings and o-rings.
    my rebuild kit came with no instructions or anything just rings and bearings.

    I've read through the section on your link about pump bearings. I'll attach a picture of my pump, i'm not really sure whats left of my bearing or how to remove it.

    if you could point me in the right direction on where to get started with all these o-rings and those 2 large rubber pieces that'd be great also.











    His reply:

    Re: lost with my pump rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by K447
    Would you be OK with posting this in a thread so others can also learn from it?

    I would first soak it in some rust dissolver chemical to shrink down the amount of material to be removed. It will also let you better see what is what. Choose a product that does not attack aluminum.

    The easiest method might be to reinstall the tail cone, then turn it over and pour the chemical into the other end. Support the stator up on some wood blocks or a small but sturdy bucket/pail.

    I often use a Black&Decker Work-Mate set to just accept the tail cone when working on stators.

    If you use an acid product such as Oxalic acid to remove the rust, do not let it soak for too long or it will eat away at the aluminum surfaces.

    Once you have the excess rust dissolved, rinse well with water. Remove the tail cone.

    From your photos it appears that the outer steel races from both bearings are all that is left behind. These are a press fit into the stator hub.

    Use a steel drift or other long sturdy tool to reach through the hub from the far side and set the end against the inside rim of the old bearing. Tap smartly on the bearing to nudge it out. Work your way around the rim of the old bearing as you tap. It should work its way out.

    You can make this extraction easier by warming the entire stator. Put it in an oven and heat to around 200F. Let it heat up for 20-30 minutes. The aluminum will expand faster than the bearing steel.

    Use gloves to handle the hot stator and prepare a suitable surface to hold it while you work.

    You may need to reheat the stator after getting the first bearing out.

    It is important to not gouge or deform the aluminum surfaces that will hold the new bearings in place. If either new bearing ends up not properly seated or mis aligned with the other bearing, the result can be rapid wear and/or binding of the new bearing assembly.

    Hope this helps anyone with bearing questions, I know it helped me
    Last edited by K447; 11-02-2013 at 10:00 PM.


  2. #2
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    if thats your pump don't fix it,find a s/s 6 vane for it

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ's gpr
    ... So beerdart gave me a good condition stub shaft for free, its off of some virage. not sure what year or specific model but it looks a little different than the one I have already, which is beat to shit.

    I'm a little worried about the end of the shaft right above where it screws into the prop. mine looks wider than this new one.

    were all stub shafts the same? will this fit my ski, it does screw into the new prop i bought.




    oh one more quick thing, is it necessary to buy a prop tool while installing the prop? i was thinking i could just get a good grip on the prop and someone else turn the stub shaft with an open end or channel locks. have you tried this before? should i use locktite?

    ...
    The project continues

    All Polaris stub shafts are the same size and length. There are some specially hardened and aftermarket stub shafts, but they still fit the same sawy.

    The old stub shaft is still encrusted with a bunch of inner bearing races and spacers from the old stator. If you want to re-use the old inner spacer or the impeller spacer, you will need to unscrew the old impeller first.

    The impeller is typically screwed onto the sub shaft with about 100 ft-lbs of torque. Then when the engine is running it can further tighten the impeller. I would NOT attempt to remove the impeller using a 'good grip' on the impeller. Buy the proper tool for $20 or less. It fits all Polaris impellers. And it fits impellers for several other watercraft brands, not just Polaris.

    Put the end of the stub shaft with the flat sides into a hefty bench vice. Use the impeller removal tool along with a hefty breaker bar wrench to loosen the impeller and unscrew it from the stub shaft.

    Right behind the impeller is the impeller spacer. This is made from stainless steel and is what the rubber seals ride on when the new parts are re-assembled. Replace if it is grooved, worn, damaged or no longer 'true'.

    In between the two rusted out bearings is the internal spacer. Also made from stainless steel. Inspect it after removal. It must be precisely the correct length and the ends must be true, square and parallel. If it is too damaged to be trusted buy a replacement.

    I can see the old impeller blade outer edges are quite worn. That impeller probably needs to be refurbished before you try using it again. I expect the new impeller has the same model number as the old one, correct?

  4. #4
    showmepro1200's Avatar
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    Ho - Lee - Chit that stator is ROUGH

  5. #5
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    The impeller I removed from the ski had a part number ending in 372 but the new prop I bought from polarisjohn ends in 457. BryanP told me that both impellers work for the ski and the 457 will have better hook up. Is this correct?

    From what I understand, your saying there's still pieces I need to remove from the old stub shaft and impeller before I put the new parts together?

    Also, what are those large rubber pieces in the first picture of the thread? I really wish this came woth instruccions!

  6. #6
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by showmepro1200 View Post
    Ho - Lee - Chit that stator is ROUGH
    Haha the ski looks mint from the outside. Never thought anything was wrong until the bearings went

  7. #7
    dolson's Avatar
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    I had the same issue I had the bearings removed by a shop, they used a hammer and piece of wood and it came right out. It was in as bad shape, after reinstalling the the bearing and seals I ended up buying a new stator off eBay. It was just in too rough of shape. I think the stator was under $100.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ's gpr View Post
    ... I really wish this came with instructions!
    Have you seen this page?

    Lots of Polaris Jet Pump info available, but perhaps we don't have a step by step jet pump rebuild thread handy. Anybody got a good link?

  9. #9
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    Just read through it. Really helped!

  10. #10
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    The project slowly goes on

    just ordered my prop tool yesterday and heated the stator to tap out the bearings. the first one came out easy and the second one was harder even after re-heating but it did eventually pop out.

    So here are my current questions at the moment haha,

    What I really want to know about now is these spacer you mentioned keith. I was looking at a diagram and I think there is a total of 3 spacers I need, everything seems beat up on the old shaft and prop so I figure I'm buying new ones, anyone know where to buy them?

    On another note, it looks like this shaft has a spot for 3 O-rings and the stator has a spot for the large one, that leaves 2 small O-rings left, anyone know where these go?

    Thanks

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