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  1. #1

    2002 Polaris Genesis i... Got some Engine questions

    I found a 2002 Genesis 1200 i. The guy couldn't get it started and just wanted it out of his yard ( i paid 100 dollars for it and said "what the heck"). I'm debating wether to try and fix it or just sell it for parts.

    I havn't had a change to run through some testing provided on this forum site but the first thing I noticed is the compression on cylinder #3 was a little low ( #1 140, #2 130, and #3 110). I'm looking for some advise on the engine to see what steps i should take. I'm thinking that if the cylinder walls are smooth, i may get away with just replacing the rings? Please give me your option and possible steps that need to be taken in order to ensure I don't waste money on a cheap way out.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, until you actually inspect the engine, we are just guessing.

    Not that hard to lift a cylinder head and have a look-see.

    Before you do that, perhaps we can get it started. That might help you decide how you want to approach the project.

    I see it cranks, as you have compression numbers. Does it try to start, or just crank endlessly?

    Do you have spark?

    Correct spark plugs installed? NGL PZFR6H only, no substitutes.

    If you have strong spark, try priming the engine with a small spoonful of gasoline down the throttle body air intakes. Take the flame arrestor cover off to get the priming fuel in there, but do not be leaning over the engine when you try starting it, just in case it backfires. For more safety, put the flame arrestor back on and snug the bolts before you press the Start button.

    Lanyard in place, does it start?

  3. #3
    The engine just cranks over endlessly. The spark plugs are the correct model # but beat to all heck (one is cracked and another one has a large piece of the white part chipped off). I ordered three new spark plugs and currently looking for a kit to test the fuel pressure. Any suggestions on a good fuel pressure gauge to buy?

    I also have a bunch of fuel lines left over from a previous ski and i was thinking about replacing the fuel lines in the meantime (get rid of the tempo lines). My next question is what is the best way to crimp the new fuel lines on the nipples? Does zip ties create a good enough seal to work on a fuel injected system? I really like the factory crimps they use but I'm not sure where to get them or if their even necessary.

  4. #4
    Thank you again, K447. Always so helpful

    I'll run through what you suggested as soon as i get the new spark plugs.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirdave4 View Post
    The engine just cranks over endlessly. The spark plugs are the correct model # but beat to all heck (one is cracked and another one has a large piece of the white part chipped off). I ordered three new spark plugs and currently looking for a kit to test the fuel pressure. Any suggestions on a good fuel pressure gauge to buy?

    I also have a bunch of fuel lines left over from a previous ski and i was thinking about replacing the fuel lines in the meantime (get rid of the tempo lines). My next question is what is the best way to crimp the new fuel lines on the nipples? Does zip ties create a good enough seal to work on a fuel injected system? I really like the factory crimps they use but I'm not sure where to get them or if their even necessary.
    There is plenty of info via my signature links regarding sources for stuff.

    Do not use nylon zip ties for fuel hoses!

    Oetiker type gapless/stepless 'ear clamps' are the preferred method. Fuel pressures can be as high as 30 PSI so you really want a reliable seal on every fuel hose connection. Even a minor fuel leak or slow fuel drip can create a dangerous and explosive fire risk in the unventilated engine area under the seat.

    My recommendation is to use good quality reinforced fuel hose. Marine grade preferred.

    Even an inexpensive fuel pressure gauge from Harbor Freight will do the job. I have one that works OK but certainly a better quality tool is always preferred!

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...

    I see it cranks, as you have compression numbers. Does it try to start, or just crank endlessly?

    Do you have spark?

    Correct spark plugs installed? NGL PZFR6H only, no substitutes.

    If you have strong spark, try priming the engine with a small spoonful of gasoline down the throttle body air intakes. Take the flame arrestor cover off to get the priming fuel in there, but do not be leaning over the engine when you try starting it, just in case it backfires. For more safety, put the flame arrestor back on and snug the bolts before you press the Start button.

    Lanyard in place, does it start?
    Did you try this?

  7. #7
    I just got my new spark plugs and fuel pressure gauge in the mail on Friday.

    With the Lanyard plugged in and pushing the start button, I get 0 pressure on the fuel lines and 18.5vdc on all three injector coils. I tried grounding out the "brown wire" for the fuel pump last night w/o removing the top of the tank and i didn't seem to get a good connection. I'll read through some of the forums tonight and try again.

  8. #8
    I'll start with this tonight:

    First, make sure your battery is charged and capable of providing at least 10.6 volts while cranking the engine. Anything less than that then the engine will not fire. After that, check the voltage on the red/white wire going to the injectors. Do not unplug the injectors when you do this. You should get about 20V while cranking the engine and about 45V if it start. As for the fuel pressure, pinch off the return line and see if you get any, if not the pump isnt working or its not getting power. If you get good pressure with the return line pinched off, the pressure regulator has fallen off inside the tank. Easy to put back on if that is the case. In order to make the pump run without running the engine, ground the brown wire that hooks up to the top of the pump. Note: There should always be 12V present at the pump connector even when the engine is not running. Check the 15 amp breakers on the right side of the ski by the starter solenoid and make sure they are not tripped because one of them protects the fuel pump circuit. Let us know what you get.

    Should the voltage at the injector be 20vdc or ac when cranking?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirdave4 View Post
    I'll start with this tonight:

    First, make sure your battery is charged and capable of providing at least 10.6 volts while cranking the engine. Anything less than that then the engine will not fire.

    After that, check the voltage on the red/white wire going to the injectors. Do not unplug the injectors when you do this. You should get about 20V while cranking the engine and about 45V if it start.

    As for the fuel pressure, pinch off the return line and see if you get any, if not the pump isnt working or its not getting power. If you get good pressure with the return line pinched off, the pressure regulator has fallen off inside the tank. Easy to put back on if that is the case.

    In order to make the pump run without running the engine, ground the brown wire that hooks up to the top of the pump.
    Note: There should always be 12V present at the pump connector even when the engine is not running. Check the 15 amp breakers on the right side of the ski by the starter solenoid and make sure they are not tripped because one of them protects the fuel pump circuit. Let us know what you get.
    Should the voltage at the injector be 20vdc or ac when cranking?
    Not sure where that quote came from, as there are some errors in there.

    Voltage on the White/Red wires that power the fuel injectors is DC volts. It must be over 20 volts while the engine is cranking, and the same voltage will be found on all the White/Red wires, as they are all connected together.

    18.5 volts is too low, something is not right.

    The battery voltage needing to be over 10.6 volts while cranking is technically a requirement for the carburetor engines, not Ficht fuel injected. It is a reasonable threshold for identifying a weak battery on any watercraft.

    Did you try priming the engine with fuel to see if it would start?

  10. #10
    I completely charged the battery up because i was only getting 10.3v when cranking. I re-checked the voltage to the injectors and I'm now getting about 20+ volts. I tried to jump the brown wire to ground (at the connector on top of the gas tank) and the jumper wire started to get hot but the pump never kicked on. I guess it's starting to look like a fuel pump issue. I'll try and pure some gas into the air intake tonight. Should i mix oil with the gas?

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