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  1. #1
    TheEngineer's Avatar
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    Getting the most out of a bone stock RXP-X 260

    We all know that the stock RXP-X 260 ECU has a rev limiter set to 8050, its speed is limited to 67-68, and it pulls throttle once it gets up to WOT speed.

    But some P-X's are just a bit faster than others and some don't lose as much speed in turns as others. What sort of slight tweaks have people experimented with, and what sort of gains have been seen.

    Are people still filling ride plate and intake holes with Epoxy stick?
    Obviously motor and pump shoe alignment are huge, anything else?


  2. #2
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    Prop. Make sure all your blades are trued up.

  3. #3
    GRF + DashPac:) seadoo02xp's Avatar
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    Ride plate is a big one but that's not really a minor tweak. I did verify that the oem sponsons do not scrub top speed at all in the fully down position.

    You could look at your stock ride plate and see how the angle of it compares to your hull and shim it if needed. I've seen several with a downward angle driving the bow down. If this is your case make it level with the hull and you should see and feel a gain.

    The stock trim tabs have been known to cause a pull at high speed also. Tweaking those would help also


  4. #4
    VTech I have a great base tune. About 72mph on the dash.

  5. #5
    TheEngineer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whittlebeast View Post
    VTech I have a great base tune. About 72mph on the dash.
    Can't use VTech. This is my Aqua X boat...For the most part, it can only be handling modifications.

  6. #6
    GRF + DashPac:) seadoo02xp's Avatar
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    Can't hurt to fill the holes on the plate, grate and tabs. Align the ride plate. Probably about all you can do. Like troy said too, Tru up the prop

  7. #7
    lt1pwr's Avatar
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    Wouldn't the Riva speed override module provide a bit of a gain without turning a wrench?

  8. #8
    TheEngineer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seadoo02xp View Post
    Can't hurt to fill the holes on the plate, grate and tabs. Align the ride plate. Probably about all you can do. Like troy said too, Tru up the prop
    What's the proper method for grate and ride plate alignment?

    Quote Originally Posted by lt1pwr View Post
    Wouldn't the Riva speed override module provide a bit of a gain without turning a wrench?
    Yes, but I can't use it. ECU needs to stay stock. The reason I've brought this topic up is because I was getting passed out of the hole and on the outside of a very wide turn in flat water during one of the previous races. All skis have been teched with GPS units and found to be within the OEM restricted speed limit. Getting passed in turn by a fellow P-X is what has me most curious. Obviously if I had turned too tight, my speed will drop, but in this case, I don't think it was a question of riding style. It seemed the other ski was able to maintain engine speed throughout the turn while I was dropping down to 7600-7800 RPM.

  9. #9
    GRF + DashPac:) seadoo02xp's Avatar
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    Basically a tape measure and a level. The more rise the rear of the rideplate has the more boat out of the water. I wonder if your plate has a downward angle. Both my stock skis did. You would either need to grind down the rear mounting points or shim the front ones. Jim does a closed loop mod that helps also. He trues the mounting surfaces. Dont know if that is legal though. It would be hard to catch even if it was. Stick a 4 foot level on the bottom glass on your hull and extend it past the plate, the angle will be really obvious if it's not level.

  10. #10
    canadian iceman
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    Variations in cam timing is my guess

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