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  1. #1
    BiXLL's Avatar
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    Bilge pump question - automatic/sensor or continuous dry running?

    I am going to install a bilge pump on my recently purchased GTX.

    I am not sure which of the 2 Rule pumps would be a better selection. Can someone give me some guidance?

    http://www.amazon.com/Rule-25S-Autom...ef=pd_sim_sg_3

    http://www.amazon.com/Rule-RM500A-Ru...pr_product_top
    Last edited by K447; 11-08-2013 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Thread title expanded


  2. #2
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    I have 2 of your second choices installed on my 2010 TX, still running strong.

    lots of info in the How to section.

  3. #3
    BiXLL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    I have 2 of your second choices installed on my 2010 TX, still running strong.

    lots of info in the How to section.
    I did do a search but did not come up with anything that was not a couple years old. I will manually look through the how to I guess? Thanks for your reply though.

  4. #4
    Make sure you know the difference between automatic and non-automatic pumps. You may prefer to have a non automatic pump which runs continuously wet or dry. Personally after my research, I think that is the way to go for jet skis. You don't have to worry about float switch, extra wiring etc. I have some posts on that.

  5. #5
    BiXLL's Avatar
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    That is exactly why I posted this. I personally would like to go with the RM500 A as it has an actual internal float switch plus the extra wire for manual run. Problem is I have read some reviews about them not being real dependable. The 25S is tried and true but turns itself on every 2-4 min to check impeller resistance, if I were to leave the ski in the water overnight I would not want it running the battery down all night.

  6. #6
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    The first choice will eventually* run a battery down because it has no water "detection" other then the motor current, so it turns on and off all the time to check for water... The second is HUGE, they are physically a lot bigger than the picture. And yes they have a float, which is BAD...

    Here is my choice, works better than perfect...

    http://www.amazon.com/SUPERSUB-Subme...rds=whale+pump

    No float, it has a water sensing switch that has NO residual current draw, so it won't run your battery down, but it's still automatic and works just like a float, but it doesn't have a float to tear up with all the jarring in a jet ski. I have used mine for 2 seasons and it's perfect. All my friends that have seen it copied it. I actually remove a bailer and use the bailer hold down to secure it in place. Make sure to relocate or plug off the line to the bailer that you displace.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Whale bilge pump with electronic water sensor

    Quote Originally Posted by wkuadam07 View Post
    The first choice will eventually* run a battery down because it has no water "detection" other then the motor current, so it turns on and off all the time to check for water... The second is HUGE, they are physically a lot bigger than the picture. And yes they have a float, which is BAD...

    Here is my choice, works better than perfect...

    http://www.amazon.com/SUPERSUB-Subme...rds=whale+pump

    No float, it has a water sensing switch that has NO residual current draw, so it won't run your battery down, but it's still automatic and works just like a float, but it doesn't have a float to tear up with all the jarring in a jet ski. I have used mine for 2 seasons and it's perfect. All my friends that have seen it copied it. I actually remove a bailer and use the bailer hold down to secure it in place. Make sure to relocate or plug off the line to the bailer that you displace.
    Whale Pumps does indeed gave an interesting product line;

    Their electronic sensor draws .008 Amps which is so small as to not matter in normal use. During extended storage the bilge pump should be turned off or the battery should still be disconnected to avoid long term battery drain.

    Looking at the specs for the BE9003 sensor module, it starts the bilge pump when water depth is 2 inches and shuts off when water depth is 1/2". The BE9006 sensor module is the same except it keeps the pump running for another 30 seconds after the low water level occurs, to help suction out a bit more water.

    I presume the same 'electric field' water sensor is integrated into their SuperSub Smart automatic bilge pumps, with similar specifications for water depth start and stop.

    Does this pump come with the three position switch shown in the installation instructions, or is that a separate purchase?



    Interesting pump shape, installation looks quite adaptable



    Apparently the water depth sensor is in the end of the motor opposite to the water inlet.

    This means the SuperSub pump must be installed with the water inlet towards the rear in a PWC, so the sensor end is higher than the water inlet, or level with water inlet. Sensor end cannot be lower than water inlet.

    Quote Originally Posted by supersub_smart_installation_instructions.pdf
    Supersub Smart 650 / Supersub Smart 1100:
    Step 1: Set the 3 way switch to Automatic (Figure 3 Supersub Smart 650/1100), the pump will run when necessary.

    Place fingers over sensor area to check pump is activated, remove fingers and wait for the pump to stop (15 seconds). Check pump regularly to ensure no clogging occurs...
    Power draw
    According to this data sheet the smaller 650 gph pump will flow about 550 gph when installed, and use 3.4 Amps while running. Continuous run time from a fully charged and fresh standard 19 Amp hour battery would be almost 4 hours to use 2/3 of the battery. At that point the battery would be near the edge in terms of being able to start the engine.

    The larger model SuperSub Smart will flow about 750 gph installed and drain the battery 25% faster in about 3 hours to 1/3 battery remaining.

    If the water leakage rate is gradual then of course the pump would cycle on and off as needed, but the aggregate pump running time would be similar.

    Of course with the engine running the pump can run indefinitely if there is enough water flooding into the bilge!
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    Last edited by K447; 04-23-2016 at 09:04 AM.

  8. #8
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BiXLL View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    I have 2 of your second choices installed on my 2010 TX, still running strong.

    lots of info in the How to section.
    I did do a search but did not come up with anything that was not a couple years old. I will manually look through the how to I guess? Thanks for your reply though.
    I wrote this years ago but is still very accurate and current. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=79658

    To summarize, Automatic is the way to go, not a continuos run type. Install a 3 way switch, Auto-Off-On. I turn the pump on prior to riding that day to test it works, then switch to Auto. Auto will only run if needed and most importantly alert you if it comes on.

    Do NOT wire it to the DESS post, requiring a key to work. You want it directly to the battery and or fuse panel. Why? So that it can be turned on any time and while just sitting in the water without the key on.

    Also install the thru hull fittings ABOVE the water line so that you can SEE is running. I have 2 pumps, the one in front of the engine with the port in front of my left leg. Trust me when it kicks on, it gets your attention immediately!

    The one facing aft is almost impossible to see while running. If your ski is just sitting in the water and turns on and takes a piss, you got a leak. I have seen leaking sponson bolts, exhaust clamps, carbon seal, etc, etc all leak.

    You are wise to install a bilge pump. I would suggest 2 pumps. They may not keep up with a massive leak, but should help you get to shore or the ramp before a serious problem develops.

    the thread I posted above has a lot of great comments and ideas, it should give you a good start to your project!
    Last edited by K447; 11-08-2013 at 10:46 AM. Reason: Fuze

  9. #9
    Q in Arizona's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BiXLL View Post
    That is exactly why I posted this. I personally would like to go with the RM500 A as it has an actual internal float switch plus the extra wire for manual run. Problem is I have read some reviews about them not being real dependable. The 25S is tried and true but turns itself on every 2-4 min to check impeller resistance, if I were to leave the ski in the water overnight I would not want it running the battery down all night.
    If you have a 3 position switch you should be able to turn it completely off when you want.

  10. #10
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q in Arizona View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BiXLL View Post
    That is exactly why I posted this. I personally would like to go with the RM500 A as it has an actual internal float switch plus the extra wire for manual run. Problem is I have read some reviews about them not being real dependable. The 25S is tried and true but turns itself on every 2-4 min to check impeller resistance, if I were to leave the ski in the water overnight I would not want it running the battery down all night.
    If you have a 3 position switch you should be able to turn it completely off when you want.
    Agreed. I opted out of the switch and wired the "auto" wire and the ground wire direct to the battery with an inline fuse of course. My battery never runs down, and my pump kicks on automatically when it needs to. When i want to test the pump i lay my fingers on the sensor and it runs. I didn't feel that i needed the "ON' wires for continuous run at all, so i cut it back and shrink wrapped it.


    K447, you see what i love about these pumps... they are small, light, adaptable, and ALMOST appear to have been designed solely with the PWC community in mind... IMHO

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