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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Bilge pump choices

    I shall expand this thread as time permits.

    This thread highlighted the availability of electronic water sensing bilge pumps.

    The Polaris OEM bilge pump is a Rule brand 360 gph pump that is configured to run continuously while the engine is running, regardless of whether there is actual water in the bilge. The Rule pumps are designed to be able to run dry without damage, unlike many other bilge pumps.

    If you just need to replace your original bilge pump in a Polaris, choose either the 360 or 500 gph Rule models. Either will fit the stock mounting and not blow the 3 Amp fuse inside the electrical box.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The primary downside to the Polaris OEM configuration using the compact Rule pumps is that the pump only pumps if the engine is running or you press and hold the Bilge button (1997 and newer).

    Automatic bilge pumps with float switches have tended to be unreliable when used in PWC. The hard bouncing and pounding that is common when riding tends to beat up the float assembly and it often jams. If it jams in the off position the pump will not pump when water is preset. If it jams in the ON position it will drain the battery fairly quickly.

    One variation uses an electronic chip to turn the pump on for a few seconds every few minutes. If there is water then the chip senses the pump is working hard and keeps it running until the pump starts to spin dry. The down side is that the repeated pump motor cycling draws some power and eventually will drain the battery.

    The fully electronic water sensors as used in the Whale SuperSub Smart bilge pump use minimal power for water sensing. The battery can run the sensor for months.

    The SuperSub pumps are a different shape than the Rule pumps and the Smart sensor end of the pump must be oriented towards the front so it is slightly higher than the water inlet end.

    I have not yet installed or used a Whale brand bilge pump, but I intend to consider them the next time I need to upgrade a bilge pump.

    Last edited by K447; 11-08-2013 at 06:43 PM.


  2. #2
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    The Rule 500 is a great replacement for the original Polaris supplied 360. The current draw is under 3 amps, and it is rated to use a 3 amp fuse. I picked up mine from John Zigler.

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    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    The Rule 500 is a great replacement for the original Polaris supplied 360. The current draw is under 3 amps, and it is rated to use a 3 amp fuse. I picked up mine from John Zigler.
    Here a bilge pump question. I got my ski and my pump didn't work. Looked into it and the ground wire to it was cut. Checked the fuse and the fuse was good. Reconected the ground wire and the pump runs constantly weather the motor is on or off. Is something fried or do I Just need a new pump?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    The Rule 500 is a great replacement for the original Polaris supplied 360. The current draw is under 3 amps, and it is rated to use a 3 amp fuse. I picked up mine from John Zigler.
    Here a bilge pump question. I got my ski and my pump didn't work. Looked into it and the ground wire to it was cut. Checked the fuse and the fuse was good. Reconected the ground wire and the pump runs constantly weather the motor is on or off. Is something fried or do I Just need a new pump?
    LR module most likely has failed. It controls the Orange wire feed that powers the bilge pump.

    Check the wiring inside the electrical box. Make sure the bilge pump connections are correctly hooked up.

  5. #5
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    The Rule 500 is a great replacement for the original Polaris supplied 360. The current draw is under 3 amps, and it is rated to use a 3 amp fuse. I picked up mine from John Zigler.
    Here a bilge pump question. I got my ski and my pump didn't work. Looked into it and the ground wire to it was cut. Checked the fuse and the fuse was good. Reconected the ground wire and the pump runs constantly weather the motor is on or off. Is something fried or do I Just need a new pump?
    LR module most likely has failed. It controls the Orange wire feed that powers the bilge pump.

    Check the wiring inside the electrical box. Make sure the bilge pump connections are correctly hooked up.
    I have the box open and The orange wire is hooked up to the side of what I beleive is the 3 amp fuse for it. How do I know what the LR module is/ if it has failed?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    The Rule 500 is a great replacement for the original Polaris supplied 360. The current draw is under 3 amps, and it is rated to use a 3 amp fuse. I picked up mine from John Zigler.
    Here a bilge pump question. I got my ski and my pump didn't work. Looked into it and the ground wire to it was cut. Checked the fuse and the fuse was good. Reconected the ground wire and the pump runs constantly weather the motor is on or off. Is something fried or do I Just need a new pump?
    LR module most likely has failed. It controls the Orange wire feed that powers the bilge pump.

    Check the wiring inside the electrical box. Make sure the bilge pump connections are correctly hooked up.
    I have the box open and The orange wire is hooked up to the side of what I beleive is the 3 amp fuse for it. How do I know what the LR module is/ if it has failed?
    If the Orange wire output from the LR voltage regulator module always has battery voltage (bilge pump always runs) even when the engine is not running, that usually means the LR module has failed.

    Depending on your model of Polaris it may be LR-21, LR-31 or even LR 505. These are black flat modules with the part number embossed into the end or sometimes on the flat side. Only the LR module will have an Orange wire going directly into it.

    The other big module in the electrical box is the CDI ignition module. It will have a larger bundle of colored wires going inside.

  7. #7
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    LR module most likely has failed. It controls the Orange wire feed that powers the bilge pump.

    Check the wiring inside the electrical box. Make sure the bilge pump connections are correctly hooked up.
    I have the box open and The orange wire is hooked up to the side of what I beleive is the 3 amp fuse for it. How do I know what the LR module is/ if it has failed?
    If the Orange wire output from the LR voltage regulator module always has battery voltage (bilge pump always runs) even when the engine is not running, that usually means the LR module has failed.

    Depending on your model of Polaris it may be LR-21, LR-31 or even LR 505. These are black flat modules with the part number embossed into the end or sometimes on the flat side. Only the LR module will have an Orange wire going directly into it.

    The other big module in the electrical box is the CDI ignition module. It will have a larger bundle of colored wires going inside.
    Okay Ill look tomorrow and see If i can find it in there. How much does that module normally run?

  8. #8
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    LR module most likely has failed. It controls the Orange wire feed that powers the bilge pump.

    Check the wiring inside the electrical box. Make sure the bilge pump connections are correctly hooked up.
    I have the box open and The orange wire is hooked up to the side of what I beleive is the 3 amp fuse for it. How do I know what the LR module is/ if it has failed?
    If the Orange wire output from the LR voltage regulator module always has battery voltage (bilge pump always runs) even when the engine is not running, that usually means the LR module has failed.

    Depending on your model of Polaris it may be LR-21, LR-31 or even LR 505. These are black flat modules with the part number embossed into the end or sometimes on the flat side. Only the LR module will have an Orange wire going directly into it.

    The other big module in the electrical box is the CDI ignition module. It will have a larger bundle of colored wires going inside.
    So just to clarify also, ive I hook a meter up to that wire. I should get zero volts unless the motor is running correct? if I get anything at all I know the module is bad?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by blairwill4 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    LR module most likely has failed. It controls the Orange wire feed that powers the bilge pump.

    Check the wiring inside the electrical box. Make sure the bilge pump connections are correctly hooked up.
    I have the box open and The orange wire is hooked up to the side of what I beleive is the 3 amp fuse for it. How do I know what the LR module is/ if it has failed?
    If the Orange wire output from the LR voltage regulator module always has battery voltage (bilge pump always runs) even when the engine is not running, that usually means the LR module has failed.

    Depending on your model of Polaris it may be LR-21, LR-31 or even LR 505. These are black flat modules with the part number embossed into the end or sometimes on the flat side. Only the LR module will have an Orange wire going directly into it.

    The other big module in the electrical box is the CDI ignition module. It will have a larger bundle of colored wires going inside.
    So just to clarify also, ive I hook a meter up to that wire. I should get zero volts unless the motor is running correct? if I get anything at all I know the module is bad?
    With engine not running, anything more than a fraction of a volt on Orange would be too much, in my opinion. This is with the bilge pump connected.

    Since you said the bilge pump is running as soon as you hook up the battery, it seems safe to say the voltage is way more than it should be!

    Note that if the battery is hooked up with reversed polarity it can cause the bilge pump to 'run'. It is actually running backwards.

    Always make very sure that the positive post on the battery is connected to the positive battery cable before connecting the black wire to the negative post.

  10. #10
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Well I know my battery is hooked up correctly I've ridden this ski a few times since ive bought it. The only two wires to the bilge is a black wire that grounds inside the Ebox and an orage and white wire that runs to a fuse on the board. The PO had cut the ground to the bilge. So when I reconect it the pump auto turns on. How much do these modules run so i know what i should be paying.

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