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  1. #1

    how to antifreeze non running MSX 140??

    Hi Folks, long story short... I have a MSX 140 that has one of the heads off, waiting for some repair work. It was run in the spring before yanking the head off, so it should have water in it in places where it shouldn't be for winter..... How should I go about flushing the water out and make it safe with non-tox antifreeze??

    I'm not concerned with the other aspects of winterizing right now, just want to protect from freezing.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    Arrow Draining the cooling system on a non-running Ficht engine (MSX 140, Virage, Genesis)

    The normal and recommended practice each time the watercraft is removed from the water on the trailer is to immediately, while the engine is still warm, start it up on the trailer and briefly but firmly squeeze the throttle several times in short bursts. The rapid RPM surge clears excess water from the exhaust waterbox and you will see it coming out the rear exhaust.

    If you have done this then the remaining water inside the waterbox is not a freeze concern.

    To remove all remaining water from the system;
    Tip the nose of the trailer up more than 10 degrees. This is easier if you slide the hull back a little on the bunks and re-latch the winch strap. Moving the hull back balances the teeter totter.
    When you lift the trailer tongue don't allow the rear of the hull to hit the ground.
    I lift my own as high as I can get it, so the jet nozzle is almost touching the ground.

    With the hull tipped upwards the cooling system will self-drain. This presumes the cooling hose configuration is stock and the water still inside is not frozen.

    At this time the drain plugs should also be open to allow the hull to drain.

    Once the cooling system is self-drained with the nose tipped up, there is no requirement for antifreeze.

    If you suspect there is more water inside the waterbox than you are comfortable with, you can use a wet 'shop vacuum' to extract the water.

    Lower the trailer back to level. Remove one or both large exhaust hoses from the top of the waterbox. Assemble some sort of extension so the vacuum can reach down into the waterbox and suck out the water. The water is liable to be somewhat oily and black with carbon, so kinda messy.

    There is a 3/4" water hose connection down very low on the front end of the waterbox. The rubber hose is quite short and difficult to remove, especially when the temperatures are cold. That said, if you can get it off, the waterbox will drain.

    Another option is to remove just the front exhaust hose from the waterbox. Configure the shop vac to blow air into the waterbox. Seal the vacuum hose to the inlet (perhaps use duct tape or similar) and turn it on. This simulates running the engine to blow the water out of the waterbox. If your vacuum has enough power it should be able to move much of the water out the rear exhaust onto the ground.

  3. #3
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    Or you could remove the water box and dump out the water.......

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