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  1. #1

    Yamaha Waveraider 1100

    Hi There,

    First post on Greenhulk. I am looking to buy my first PWC. I am after a PWC for blasting around on and having fun at my beach house (salt water). I am after a two seater that is light weight, nimble and fast.

    I went and viewed a Yamaha Waveraider 1100 last night. A few questions:

    - Engine was already warm when i got there (guy mentioned he thought the battery was flat so wanted to make sure it would start)
    - Hull had bee repaired along the length of the hull with a home job gel coat (looked a little rough)
    - Digital Screen was not working despite him assuring me the ski had only done approx 60 hours
    - A decent amount of oil/black mess around the ride plate and jet unit
    - Turned the hose on before engine was running and also turned the engine off before he turned the hose off
    - Smoked a lot while running

    What are your thoughts on the above? The engine bay looked extremely tidy and was covered in WD40 with no rusted bolts etc.

    The other ski's i am looking at this weekend are 1999 Seadoo Xp's 951's.

  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    North Central Arkansas
    There are too many things to easily overlook if you're not very faniliar with these. Don't buy anything without a compression check and a test ride.

  3. #3
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Lake Of The Ozarks
    I am wondering if the guy selling is really that knowledgeable of his ski ...who turns H2O on 1st & off last ? You must take the time to do a compression check .... very important. Good Luck

  4. #4
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    South Shore, Long Island NY
    all 2 strokes will be smokey, especially on land. I have a raider 1100 f/s as well(NY). These are really reliable, simple ski's. Also quite fun & fast for there era. Not the best turning tho.

    here are some things to check.
    - How long was it sitting? was it fogged/winterized & Stabil'd before storage?
    Is it ridden in salt or fresh water?
    does it stay in the water or get removed every time?
    do they flush every time?

    if it has the front 'sponson/wave guards), be sure they are tight & not leaking
    compression (cold engine 120psi, no more than 10% difference between them)
    trim- cables move(all present)
    fuel petcock valve- moves
    throttle cable springs back freely
    choke cable/lever moves freely
    steering cables move freely in both directions

    is it still oil injected?
    or is it pre-mix? what ratio? what oil?

    any mods? ride plate, prop?

    take off the 8 screws for rear storage under seat. inspect the area for leaks, the condition of the 'hoop' hose, etc.

    look at t he prop & inspect for looseness or major damage.

    run it on a hose for at least 2 mins. make sure there are no leaks in the hull while its running & that the pisser is working.

    If it's been sitting for any amount of time & isn't completely topped off, there should be some pressure when you remove the fuel cap. indicated a tightly sealed system. (not a fool proof test tho)

    how much black mold/mildew inside the hull? ski's are not 100% dry, there will condensation, etc & this is a 17yr old ski but excessive growth can mean constant wetness or just a lazy owner.

    not sure where your located but you def want to do a water test. a ski can rev on land/unloaded just fine. if the carbs are in need of a rebuild then you will only know when on the water.
    if you are able to do a water ride, inspect for leaks before & after riding.

    obvious things like looking inside & outside of the hull for repair, damage, overall condition.

    Best of luck!

  5. #5
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Madison, WI, USA
    Great ski, but definitely some red flags there.

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